Hi, I just blew my stock RB20det turbo and having troubles removing it, do you have any tutorials or anything on how to remove it?
thanks.
Ps- Would a T50 fit?
Help, Removing a turbo
Re: Help, Removing a turbo
Here's a good walkthrough that should get you to where you need to be...
http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/foru ... 20det.html
http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/foru ... 20det.html
Re: Help, Removing a turbo
Here's what I do. I have a front mount IC so my IC piping may be different but you get the idea.
Step 1: Remove IC piping to "J" pipe and turbo. Taking off the J pipe makes things easier as well.
Step 2: Remove turbo outlet elbow to make some more room.
Step 3: Remove air filter and turbo inlet tube, bov recirc, etc.
Step 4: Remove heat shields to make some more room. 10mm bolts on manifold. I don't have one on my turbo so I don't know that size.
Step 5: Drain coolant down to turbo. You don't have to empty it, but you need it below the turb. Drain from petcock on the stock rad or a bolt on the bottom of an A/M rad. Drain until you think its enough....then drain some more.
Step 6: Remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts securing the dump pipe to the turbo. Unbolting the exhaust at the test pipe makes the downpipe/dump pipe easier to manage.
Step 7: Crack 24mm banjo bolt on SIDE of turbo to drain out the coolant that's still in there. I bought a huge drip pan from Walbogs to put under to easily catch all the fluids.
Step 8: Remove the 14mm bolt from turbo flange that is directly above the banjo bolt for the turbo oil supply. This will allow you to put a 17mm socket w/ extension onto said banjo bolt. Remove said bolt.
Step 9: Two options here-- either loosen one of the hose clamps on the turbo oil return line near the block and pull the hose OR remove the two 12mm bolts on the underside to the turbo center-section holding said return to its respective flange. Be careful not to damage gasket on the flange.
Step 10: Remove inner 24mm banjo bolt from turbo. This can be a pain in the a**. Removing the heatshield on the mani frees up some space. Sometimes I'll completely remove the turbo from the mani before cracking this bolt.
Now that the exhaust and oil and coolant lines have been removed from the turbo, it's time to get that pile out.
Step 11: After removing the one 14mm bolt from the flange in step 8, there are three more fastening points. 1 more 14mm bolt on the topside of the flange and 2 17mm nuts. I like to push the oil hardline out of the way to free up some wrench turnin' space.
Step 12: Pull that bish out and thrash it onto whatever surface is directly beneath your feet at that particular point in time.
***USE SOME ANTI-SEIZE ON THE MOUNTING POINTS FOR THE DUMP PIPE AND ALSO THE TURBO . You'll thank me later.
Step 1: Remove IC piping to "J" pipe and turbo. Taking off the J pipe makes things easier as well.
Step 2: Remove turbo outlet elbow to make some more room.
Step 3: Remove air filter and turbo inlet tube, bov recirc, etc.
Step 4: Remove heat shields to make some more room. 10mm bolts on manifold. I don't have one on my turbo so I don't know that size.
Step 5: Drain coolant down to turbo. You don't have to empty it, but you need it below the turb. Drain from petcock on the stock rad or a bolt on the bottom of an A/M rad. Drain until you think its enough....then drain some more.
Step 6: Remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts securing the dump pipe to the turbo. Unbolting the exhaust at the test pipe makes the downpipe/dump pipe easier to manage.
Step 7: Crack 24mm banjo bolt on SIDE of turbo to drain out the coolant that's still in there. I bought a huge drip pan from Walbogs to put under to easily catch all the fluids.
Step 8: Remove the 14mm bolt from turbo flange that is directly above the banjo bolt for the turbo oil supply. This will allow you to put a 17mm socket w/ extension onto said banjo bolt. Remove said bolt.
Step 9: Two options here-- either loosen one of the hose clamps on the turbo oil return line near the block and pull the hose OR remove the two 12mm bolts on the underside to the turbo center-section holding said return to its respective flange. Be careful not to damage gasket on the flange.
Step 10: Remove inner 24mm banjo bolt from turbo. This can be a pain in the a**. Removing the heatshield on the mani frees up some space. Sometimes I'll completely remove the turbo from the mani before cracking this bolt.
Now that the exhaust and oil and coolant lines have been removed from the turbo, it's time to get that pile out.
Step 11: After removing the one 14mm bolt from the flange in step 8, there are three more fastening points. 1 more 14mm bolt on the topside of the flange and 2 17mm nuts. I like to push the oil hardline out of the way to free up some wrench turnin' space.
Step 12: Pull that bish out and thrash it onto whatever surface is directly beneath your feet at that particular point in time.
***USE SOME ANTI-SEIZE ON THE MOUNTING POINTS FOR THE DUMP PIPE AND ALSO THE TURBO . You'll thank me later.
Re: Help, Removing a turbo
To answer your other question......if you've got an RB20 you may as well forget about a T50. I'd be thinking T3/TO4 or something similar....maybe a Holset.