HELP!!! PLZ, CAR WON'T START

[RagingFetus]

Hey guys, appreciate all advice. 2000 Infiniti I30, 140k..3 nights ago, My car wouldn't start when leaving work. battery is brand new, all lights interior and exterior turn on including dashboard lights. I got a jump that night and it started right up. When I got home I shut it off and tried starting it again and nothing, when I turn the key all dashboard lights go on but there was no sound. I popped the hood and my fiancé tried starting the car and nothing. What I could hear was a very high pitched ear piercing frequency, not that loud and after she would try starting it I could hear something click about 4-6 times. Sounded like it was coming from back of motor towards the middle/drivers side. So, next morning, I tried starting it and it started right up. I took it to Autozone and they tested batter and alternator and both were fine. I started the car about 6 more times throughout the day and it started everytime, only once was it a slow hard start. Again, when I got home I tried starting it to make sure it was still OK and back to nothing, didn't even attempt to turn over. This all brings us to yesterday. Again, I get up and try to start the car and it starts up, but slow and rough. I had a couple doctors appt for the kids so I had to attempt to drive it. The next 3 starts it started fine. On the 4th and 5th it was real slow and hard and barely cranked over. Got home last night and tried it as the days before and again nothing at all. Now it won't start ever. I've tried it maybe every couple hours since last night and not once did it even try to start slow and rough. As for help you in your diagnosis, I bought it with 88k, now has 140k, I'VE NEVER CHANGED THE SPARK PLUGS and I have no idea if they were ever changed before I bought it (IM GUESSING NOT)....I keep hearing everyone tell me ignition switch or starter but I'd prefer not to guess. ALSO, ABOUT 5 MONTHS AGO, CAR STARTED STALLING IN PARK AND NEUTRAL ONLY, NOT IN DRIVE OR REVERSE. After about 5-10 seconds in Park or Neutral the RPM's will drop, once in a while I'll hear a click and the RPM's will catch and the car doesn't stall. Most of the time the RPM's drop and the car stalls out. It was starting right back up again after it would stall out up until 3 nights ago. It has stalled out on me once in reverse and 3 times in drive over that 5 month spend but usually only in park and neutral. When I idle at a stop in drive though it does feel like the engine wants to stall, sometimes I'll get a little shake. Also I can hear a clicking sound coming from sounds like right under the car, under the drivers seat towards front left wheel. Doesn't always click, just once in a while. Usually if I shut the AC off the clicking stops, but not always. (IM IN PHOENIX SO AC IS ALMOST AN ALL YEAR THING). SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT comes on for a couple weeks and then goes off for a couple days and then comes back on. The only code I have ever gotten is P0430. The catylitic converter bank 2 problem that I hear alot of I 30's have issues with. I've passed emissions with this supposed problem and my mechanic about a year and half ago checked it out when the ENGINE CHECK LIGHT first came on and he said the Y part of the catalytic converter was fine. (HE SAID WITH THAT CODE IF IT WAS THE CATALYTIC CONVERTOR IT WOULD BE THE FRONT Y PART OUT OF THE 3 SECTIONS).. He's no longer able to work on my car as he was diagnosed with Parkinson's disease and can't handle the manual labor anymore. I'm trying to figure out do I have two seprate issues here or could the idling problem and the starting issue be connected. SORRY ABOUT THE LONG LONG POST BUT I WANTED YOU GUYS TO HAVE ALL RELIVANT INFORMATION. ANYWAY, PLEASE HELP!!!! PLEASE. THANKS IN ADVANCE AND BEST REGARDS, JASEN.

[bundy26]

Loose terminal maybe ?

[RagingFetus]

Forgive me as I'm not completely car savvy.. You mean loose battery terminal? I'm assuming you do..if that was the case wouldn't the jump still have started the car even with a loose terminal? When I tried to jump it yesterday there was no help, nothing. And since all interior lighting works, wouldn't that mean my batter hook up is fine?

[loystock]

From your description, it's obvious that you are not taking good care of your car. OEM plugs are only good up to 105K miles. If they are still original, they are way overdue. Without service, your transmission fluid could be brownish or dark by now (instead of pinkish red). Below is the link to the Maintenance chapter so you have an idea about the maintenance requirments of this car.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/i30/2001/ma.pdf

Make sure your battery connections are clean and tight and that the wires are not corroded. The battery voltage must be 12.6 VDC or higher if it is in good condition and the alternator is working. Anything below 12 VDC is useless for starting. Based on your description, the starter has failed or is 'sticky.'

The engine stalling problem is most likely due to dirty fuel filter (located on the firewall, beside the brake booster). When was the last time you replace it?

Check/clean your entire air intake - from air filter all the way to the throttle valve.

Since you hear the 'ticking' sound with the AC on, most likely the source is the AC compressor clutch.

[RagingFetus]

Honestly I do try regular matnince, the plugs I just procrastinated on and I bought the car from an older gentleman with 89k on it so I'm just figuring they are the original OEM plugs. I've done a drain and fill on my transmission when I bought it at 89 and again at 119 and was gonna do another at 149. Battery is brand new. Cables are tight. No corrosion. I guess I'll do the plugs and then head for the starter after that. Is it normal for starters to just go over 2 days? I did fuel filter also when I bought it at 89k. Now at 140. Thanks for your help.