HELP PLS!!! Don't know where to find EGRC Solenoid Valve.

[xsilentskriblezx]

Hey guys, I woke up this morning to a check engine light. Went to an auto parts store to have'em do an OBD test. Results came back with a P1400. I did some searching online and everything lead to the EGRC Solenoid Valve. It might need to be replaced. Does anyone know where this part is located. I haven't the slightest clue of where to look for this under the hood. Pls help.

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Have experienced this trouble code problem before. It is complicated. And you have
to work on the problem while the engine is hot most of the time to see if the EGR valve
works. My EGRC was colored green and was pretty close to the top of the engine toward the
top radiator hose. I think there are two vacuum lines; one goes to the throttle body? and one
goes to the EGR -BPT valve

READ HERE FIRST!
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1995/ec.pdf
Page 130 and continues

Check and see if your EGR valve is working first. When you rev up the engine
you should feel the diaphram of the valve move. USE GLOVES ITS HOT! If not it is either stuck in the
open or closed position. It is is stuck closed, you car is probably running ok -maybe.

You might have a hose that is split so check your EGR hoses first. If you have never changed them
go to the dealership and get the right size cause Auto Zones were too loose or not heat resistant
(no I dont use windshield washer fluid hoses on the engine). I put a LITTLE gasket sealer around
where the OEM hose slips on to the male slip on extension (to make it airtight).

Generally speaking, your EGRC solenoid activates the EGR-BPT valve which works and activates with
the EGR valve. You also have a temperature switch for the EGR system and it needs to work too.
There are hoses coming from the solenoid and working with the throttle body too. I think the EGR temp
switch sends a signal to the ECU. The ECU then triggers the EGRC solenoid to switch vacuum on and off.
So if your not getting vacuum to the EGR valve then either the component/s mentioned are broken
or carbon is stopping the exhaust flow.

If you have never cleaned carbon out of the EGR tube (goes from EGR valve
to back of plenum by firewall) you might start there.

I "fixed" mine but probably the least cost effective way. I already had on a new EGR
valve so I added new hoses, a new solenoid valve , new temp switch, and a new EGR-BPT valve and the CEL went away.(I really think the solenoid was ok but I changed it). I was just trying to pass inspection and
I figured if they held it up it would cost me about $300 (of shop labor) which is what I paid for new parts anyway. So I think my EGR valve is stuck closed (it wont move I think, not at idle or revving up) but hey no CEL and passed inspection. And I replaced the parts because it was just too hard to test them and put the car back together to do so. I figured the shop would kill me with labor for a 50 dollar part.

You might try a search of this website to see what else you come up with and Chiltons will help
too.

Good luck!

[maxhopper]

Nutria nailed it. I just had this issue on my 97 and it was also the green solenoid located between the two heads on the driver's side. Part is a dealer only part, and cost about $94.

[xsilentskriblezx]

Man, thx so much guys! Lots of usefull info from Nutria. There's a Nissan dealership just down the street from my work. I should be able to get a hold of that part soon. Can't thank you enough Nutria.

[AshleyFromPA]

I had this problem with mine too- the code was coming up EGR valve but it was actually the solenoid. They explained that the solenoid is what makes the valve open and close or something like that. The valve is not the likely culprit but most times, they said, it is going to be the solenoid coming up the same code.