Help Please.. Starter, Idle, Battery, Wiring, Oil, Relays, Headlights, KA, etc..

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
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mmaxeyjr
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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Heres a list of my problems.. Sorry I know it's a lot to read. Any input would be great.

edit: 1995 Nissan 240sx ka24de

1.) Car has power (interior lights etc.) I go to turn the key to start the car then I hear the motor turn almost as if the battery is low on power then I just get "click click click click" It'll do this everytime. It seems that it only did this once I replaced the battery terminals...

side note: I got the battery tested at advance auto it said it was good and took a charge, then I went to start the car and the same thing continued.

When I have the key turned to the "on" position and have the radio on or lights or something the power will cut out then come back on right after it cuts off.

2.) When I first start the car, sometimes it will idle almost at 2,000 rpms then if I mess with the heater or give it some more gas, it'll idle back down around 900 or so. Lately it's been idling high for about 5 mins then it goes back to normal

3.) When driving, theres a noise that sounds like a sputtering or tapping. Possibly from having an aftermarket header on? When I go faster it gets louder and faster. Also when I have the pedal to the floor I feel a hesitation (just put in new ngk IX iridium spark plugs, wires)

4.) When I start up the car it wont always stay on unless I hold the gas pedal down for a second or so. After that second, it'll idle fine.

thanks


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ocalas240
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Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2008 12:41 pm
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx
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Ok so i had a similar problem with my starter awhile back. you can either take a hammer to it, check your starter power wire, etc. but what i just ended up doing was buying a remote starter at harbor freight tools. little red button with two wires. put one on your positive battery terminal and one on your starter power wire, make sure your car is in the on position then hit the button. TA DA!! the car should turn on...... mine always did. that would be my best bet for your starting issues.

My idle sucked too when i first got my 240, i jus dinked around with it a bit. adjusting the accelerator cable at the TB worked for me. but ive read about some sort of a screw on the back of the intake manifold?? something about an idler screw? id say search on it a bit and it might yeild some results.

But good luck to ya man, i hope some more people might shed some light on your situation...

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mmaxeyjr
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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thanks man. not sure if i'd really want to put in a push start button haha i'd rather just have it work like normal. I guess i have to check all the wires and everything. Anyone know of a write up for removing the starter?

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ocalas240
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Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx
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im sure there is one lurking aroung here somewhere, iirc there are 2 bolts on the back side of the bellhousing holding it in then just the wires going to it (make sure you kno which is which). but i doubt you need to to remove the whole starter. just check all your wires and make sure that there isnt any corrosion or oil etc on them and that theyre getting good contact. i also added an extra ground to mine (might help u out) since our stock grounds are pretty pathetic.

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mmaxeyjr
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:17 am
Car: 1995 s14

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i guess laquer thinner eats plastic? was using it to clean lense...

what would you expect if you saw this under your car one morning?

s13baby
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Jun 23, 2009 6:02 pm
Car: nissan s13

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i man i have a problem with my s13 i bought it and did a swap with s14 i put in the new motor it cranked got spark but fuel injectors didnt open so i got a brand new wireing harnes and it still wont run what can i do can u give me a call and help me 270 791 5104

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mmaxeyjr
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Car: 1995 s14

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so i took off the oil pan. cleaned it all up put on rtv silicone high temp (black) on the pan then I laid down the felpro cork gasket on the oil pan. bolted the pan back on. put some rtv around the edges just in case. let it sit without oil or anything for 18 hours.

added oil in the morning. drove it for 15 minutes. came back home looked under the car and it's dripping just as bad if not worse..

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ocalas240
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Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2008 12:41 pm
Car: 1992 Nissan 240sx
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Maybe it isnt your oil pan thats leaking? i mean, mine leaked a lil bit, i started using stop leak by lucas oil instead of the regular lucas oil additive. and its been kinda weird, she doesnt leak as much if any. i say use lucas oil additives. but thas only for a small leak, idk how much urs leaks, alot? a little?

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mmaxeyjr
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Car: 1995 s14

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it leaks a lot. it's gotta be the front main seal and the oil pan.

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motoman399
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Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:18 pm
Car: 98' wrecked (RHD coming soon) 240
Location: Eureka, Ca
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for your starting problem i think you should check the grounding in your car. if the positive wire is good then check the next thing that would have to do with starting.... the ground. lol good luck

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mmaxeyjr
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Car: 1995 s14

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the starting problem was the battery. fixed.

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4cefed
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Joined: Wed Sep 18, 2002 3:32 pm
Car: 92 240SX Coupe
03 SRT-4
Various Dodge POSs

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mmaxeyjr wrote:Heres a list of my problems.. Sorry I know it's a lot to read. Any input would be great.

edit: 1995 Nissan 240sx ka24de

1.) Car has power (interior lights etc.) I go to turn the key to start the car then I hear the motor turn almost as if the battery is low on power then I just get "click click click click" It'll do this everytime. It seems that it only did this once I replaced the battery terminals...

side note: I got the battery tested at advance auto it said it was good and took a charge, then I went to start the car and the same thing continued.

When I have the key turned to the "on" position and have the radio on or lights or something the power will cut out then come back on right after it cuts off.
What motoman just said, grounds. The flimsy braided lines the factory uses has a limited lifespan. You can make a few of your own out of some ring terminals and extra speaker amp wire (Everyone has some extra 8 gauge lying around right?) Run a few from somewher on the engine to somewher on the body or right to the negative terminal. make sure your connections are clean, like sanding paint off the body if you ground there.
mmaxeyjr wrote:2.) When I first start the car, sometimes it will idle almost at 2,000 rpms then if I mess with the heater or give it some more gas, it'll idle back down around 900 or so. Lately it's been idling high for about 5 mins then it goes back to normal

4.) When I start up the car it wont always stay on unless I hold the gas pedal down for a second or so. After that second, it'll idle fine.
These two: Search for threads on adjusting the IAV. Read a few of those and try some of the suggestions.
mmaxeyjr wrote:3.) When driving, theres a noise that sounds like a sputtering or tapping. Possibly from having an aftermarket header on? When I go faster it gets louder and faster. Also when I have the pedal to the floor I feel a hesitation (just put in new ngk IX iridium spark plugs, wires)

thanks
Bad exhaust manifold gasket? Hesitiation is probably something else.

Oh, before you crack into the IAV, make sure all you vacuum lines are OK and there are no leaks.

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motoman399
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Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 9:18 pm
Car: 98' wrecked (RHD coming soon) 240
Location: Eureka, Ca
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mmaxeyjr wrote:the starting problem was the battery. fixed.
sweet. oh and the header thing i thought i had a leak on mine also but it turns out its juts the header "tick" you can check for leaks with a stethoscope with the end off of it. works great


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