2011 R51. What a PITA.
Apparently the PO has tried to replace the fan clutch but was unsuccessful.
All 4 nuts were ON TIGHT! I had to use a breaker bar and rapidly move it to break the nuts. Otherwise I was spinning the pulley trying to remove the stupid nuts. Got the 3 visible ones off and voila the last one is rounded. I can get a 12 point on there but it slips as soon as I put any force into it!!!

How do I remove the last rounded nut?

First step is easy if you're using a 12 point socket or wrench, use a 6 point. While 6 point sockets aren't quite as convenient as 12s, they'll get a lot more stuff off.

If that doesn't work I'd go for a vice grips.

bolt extractor

https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-dri ... 67894.html

Thanks! I have that exact set and tried getting it in there. The space is too narrow. So after 2 hours of liberal soaking and hammering with a decent amount of force the nut spun finally. What a POS. The PB Blaster was steaming as I hammered it with the corrosion breaking loose.

New problem though - I was an idiot and forgot to put cardboard on the radiator. The old clutch was seized to its shaft and I had to yank it off. And this happened



Looks ok to me to still use the radiator with the pins a little bent. What do you guys think?

Apparently lost my time window to edit...

I got new flange nuts on there from Home Depot. And they are on there as tight as I can get them by hand. How tight do they need to go on?
To go any tighter I would need advise on how to lock the pulley in place...

I'd go with standard torque specs, here's a list, http://www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm/ I can't tell from the pic if it's 6 or 8MM. The way to tighten (or loosen) on something like that is to use one wrench on one of the nuts, locked against the hub, then turn the one you're trying to tighten or loosen while it's held in place. I just did this on my Grandsons Toyota a couple of weeks ago, same design. It's not the smoothest operation, but it works.

The radiator is probably ok, the fins are no worry at all, that middle tube is the one thing I can see that might be a problem, but I think you'll be ok. Just keep an eye on it when it gets hot and under pressure.

Ugh- I'm doing that job today.

Thanks Mike!
I’m doing the spark plugs change too. Once that is done, I’ll get everything together and do the cooling system bleed. My plan is to put the radiator cap which is non vented on there and leave the cap off on the reservoir tank?

CJstem00 wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 03, 2020 8:45 am

Ugh- I'm doing that job today.

Good luck - hopefully you were able to get the little nuts off without buggering it up.

So, in and out in 90 minutes. Old one was new. Not my issue! Replaced anyway, and moved on. Did the throttle body reset thing, BOOM! Idle normal, no fan rush on start and idle. Still have a O2 sensor to take care of this week. I'll write a post when I'm done, hopefully sooner than later.