Help please, quick question answered!

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CRyan
Posts: 1403
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 6:53 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan 240SX

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Basically I am having trouble sealing my lower oil pan. It hasn't sealed correctly since I replaced the pick up tube. S14 SR20DET. Primarily stock. Yada, yada.

Anyway, is there any possibility that the pick up tube is getting in the way of the lower pan making seal to upper pan? Any other advice would help. Only other thing I can think of is the pan being slightly bent from taking it off so many times, or where the bolt holes are, has been pulled up from tightening.

Thanks in advance guys,
Corey aka CRyan


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jbracy7
Posts: 1039
Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2007 8:39 pm
Car: 94 GTS TYPE-M in a dozen pieces
Location: S.A. TX

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have u tried useing rtv, its not a long term fix but should help untell u can find a new oil pan.

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CRyan
Posts: 1403
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 6:53 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan 240SX

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Thats what you're suppose to use to seal it. I have been using the red RTV, but found out recently from our local Nissan dealership I need to be using "Ultra Grey". This is the reason I think it has a bend to it somewhere. . .Or the fact I might not be letting it cure long enough before I put the pan on?

I let it set about 15 minutes before I push it on the bottom of the upper pan and tighten down the bolts. I've heard you should wait from anywhere near 30 minutes to some people who said 5 hours.

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vocationalzero
Posts: 870
Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:44 pm
Car: 92 Too For Dee
87 BMW 635 CSi
06 Dodge Dakota Night Runner Edition
06 Nissan Sentra S
Location: Pfllugerville, Tx

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You usually wanna give the RTV 24 hours to fully cure. And it's either ultra gray or black RTV is what you wanna use.

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CRyan
Posts: 1403
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 6:53 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan 240SX

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Well, I got the pan off yesterday around 230. Ever bolt hole was pulled up slightly. I'm pretty sure that was the problem. I took the ball ping and put them back in there place. Unfortunately, the shop I was in only had high temp red, so i put that on and let it set for about 20 minutes. Then I bolted it hand tight all the way around and let it set for a good 3 hours. Right before I left last night about 830-900 i went ahead and tightened them to spec. Wish me luck, about to head and get the oil and pray it doesn't leak so I can actually show off my recently waxed car :)

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CRyan
Posts: 1403
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 6:53 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan 240SX

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Well guys, looks like engine is coming out! Apparently when I tinkered with timing chain (took cover off without removing upper pan) I broke the seal slightly. SO, now my build has expanded a bit more. No, I wasn't planning on pulling the engine, but to be sure everything is sealed when it cranks up again, its the only logical way. If I'm not mistaken, the timing chain cover, upper, lower oil pans all require just RTV, correct? I might actually just pull the head and replace with cometic. Just thinking aloud, if I'm at it, I might as well get a full seal kit, just to be certain.

So question numero one, anyone know where I can get a good deal on a full seal kit? I have seen the complete seal kit (OEM) sell for 200 doll hairs, but that just seems a bit steep. . .Or am I just being cheap?

Any info for the process will help greatly.

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homeslicej2
Posts: 5446
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:46 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

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Don't use a Cometic gasket. I'd get a stock HG before using a cometic. If you get a metal HG, you'll need to at least have the head checked and decked if needed. not sure who is cheapest of complete SR20 gasket sets, but I know thenismoshop sells S13 kits (red or blacktop) for $123+shipping.

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CRyan
Posts: 1403
Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2004 6:53 pm
Car: 1997 Nissan 240SX

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Thanks for advice. Yeah, I might as well just go with stock head gasket seeing as it comes with complete set. Unfortunately I haven't been to thenismoshop, I've only found a stock gasket kit on frsport


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