Hi guys,
I tried to get my car thru inspection 2 times and I failed. I bought this 240sx with 245k miles and well.. I failed the HC and CO, on the first test i failed HC with 721 at idle, 219 at 2500RPM, and passed CO. Then after, changing oil to full synthetic, and no smog, additive for smog decrease, bla bla bla.. got 320 at idle and 217 at 2500rmp, LIMIT is 220. and failed CO for .04%. Well, i just want to find the easiest way to pass emission, and then do the SR swap. Dont want to take it to the mechanic to fix it, every mechanic come up with a different problem and the cost range is 400-2100, with no guarantee. Then I dont know if i should swap it and then go thru inspection, afraid of failing visual inspection if there is any.
Any one have any idea of how to make it pass for sure? Any good chemical product? I hear some rumor abt mixing rubbing alcohol with something else and pour it in the air intake, will decrease HC and CO, but didnt have the guts to try. Will changing oxygen sensor, thermostat and fan clutch help? I know the fan keep the engine too cool for some reason. Any advice??
Help passing emission....
I'm not familiar with your e-test procedures, do they do a asm 2525 (25mph then idle test) or a 2 speed idle (cruise,2500rpm then idle)
245k miles is up there, could have a "lazy" or bad o2 sensor, a constant lean reading ie low volts will cause the ecm to "dump" fuel to try and bring up the a/f ratio back to "stoich"
Your oil change helped reduce CO because at cruise 25% or your intake air comes from your pcv valve, and if for some reason you had excessive hydrocarbons (HC) in your crancase from lets say a no start flooded condition all that extra hc winds up gettting burned which in turn brings up your CO.
The reason nobody gives you a straight answer for the cause of your "fail" is that without actually testing related emission components and engine integrity their is no guaranteed way to pass.
You said your engine was always cool/cold make sure your tstat isn't stuck open, this will cause your CTS to read cool and again cause the ecm to try and richen up the mixture to warm the engine up....
Hope this helps, let me know what else youve done.
later DAN510:ylsuper
245k miles is up there, could have a "lazy" or bad o2 sensor, a constant lean reading ie low volts will cause the ecm to "dump" fuel to try and bring up the a/f ratio back to "stoich"
Your oil change helped reduce CO because at cruise 25% or your intake air comes from your pcv valve, and if for some reason you had excessive hydrocarbons (HC) in your crancase from lets say a no start flooded condition all that extra hc winds up gettting burned which in turn brings up your CO.
The reason nobody gives you a straight answer for the cause of your "fail" is that without actually testing related emission components and engine integrity their is no guaranteed way to pass.
You said your engine was always cool/cold make sure your tstat isn't stuck open, this will cause your CTS to read cool and again cause the ecm to try and richen up the mixture to warm the engine up....
Hope this helps, let me know what else youve done.
later DAN510:ylsuper
start with that :ylsuperWell, about the emission test here in DE. They check the HC and CO at idle, then tell you to hit 2500RPM constantly for 30sec then another 30sec at idle again. I did the test again today after pouring the second bottle of "emission pass guaranteed" stuff from NAPA... good news is that CO dropped from 1.24 to 0.48, however, HC went up for 40. so now is 390 instead of 360 and limit is 220. That was my bad, i didnt follow directions in the box. Anyway, I got another bottle of the chemical from NAPA, and this time plus something new, it is a tiny red bottle, says that it help you reduce HC. got to try this. after i empty my fuel tank.
The reason i didnt change any parts is becoz i want to pass emission the easy way and do the swap. I thought abt new oxygen sensors ($40), thermostat ($10), fan clutch($40 or $70), cat converter ($???), so rather spend 40 - 60 bucks in chemicals,and good oil. Sounds dumb but it did help. And i already spent 180 for a dumb alternator. Well, I will try to use up all my gas and go rite thru inspection as directed in the box. "Wonder why gas last so long when you want to waste it." Let see what happen in 1 or 2 days.
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The reason i didnt change any parts is becoz i want to pass emission the easy way and do the swap. I thought abt new oxygen sensors ($40), thermostat ($10), fan clutch($40 or $70), cat converter ($???), so rather spend 40 - 60 bucks in chemicals,and good oil. Sounds dumb but it did help. And i already spent 180 for a dumb alternator. Well, I will try to use up all my gas and go rite thru inspection as directed in the box. "Wonder why gas last so long when you want to waste it." Let see what happen in 1 or 2 days.
...Did you check (rattle test) your cat? With hte exhaust system cold hit the cat with the palm of your hand and listen for rattle, if it does I can pretty much guarantee all the chemicals in the world won't help you pass.
At least its only a TSI test (two speed idle) No actual load is being put on the engine, Here our cars are put on a dyno and brought up to 25 mph and then a load is put on the dyno relative to 25% of the vehicle weight. And they also test for NOx (oxides of nitrogen)
High HC indicates missfire (mixture doesn't get burned in the combustion chambre therefore goes right through to the exhaust system) So if your HC is high check your ign system (bad plug(s) ign wire, cap and rotor) This is of course if your cat is still functionning.
Dumb alternater = sh*t happens....
good luck with your future e-tests.....:ylsuper
At least its only a TSI test (two speed idle) No actual load is being put on the engine, Here our cars are put on a dyno and brought up to 25 mph and then a load is put on the dyno relative to 25% of the vehicle weight. And they also test for NOx (oxides of nitrogen)
High HC indicates missfire (mixture doesn't get burned in the combustion chambre therefore goes right through to the exhaust system) So if your HC is high check your ign system (bad plug(s) ign wire, cap and rotor) This is of course if your cat is still functionning.
Dumb alternater = sh*t happens....
good luck with your future e-tests.....:ylsuper
Well, DAN510, I decided to get a CAT at last... well, actually the chemicals did a great job. it helped me droped HC from 720 to 370, and CO form 1.24 to .48; then i changed the fuel filter, spark, and oxygen sensor, and it didnt help at all, so i decided to go for the cat, the best deal o got was 145 in NAPA and 50 bucks for the installation, and i PASSED.at idle HC 48 CO 0.00%at 2500RPM HC 75 CO 0,04%.gosh so happy got my registration and tag today and ordered the sr20 but damn i wont be able to intall it, it is gona take 1 1/2 to 2 weeks .SHT... too bad, and next week is spring break, damn shippng delay gona scrw up my spring break..
Cant drive fast, car stalls
, engine already dead, but i can still force it to move... lol..
Cant drive fast, car stalls
, engine already dead, but i can still force it to move... lol..