Help ODD smoking problem!

[beatd]

Well first off my setup is: T25, FMIC, 370cc, walbro 255, SAFC with stock ecu, stock maf, and 3" piping turbo back.

My friend structure240sx was helping me somewhat set my safc to drive to a shop because we couldn't put a wideband in because the o2 bung was misalinged but at start up and while driving there is no smoke at all. But when we were at a light and just idling for 30 seconds suddenly there would be a huge cloud of smoke coming from the bottom of the car. Then when we start driving again the smoke clears up and its fine agian. When we parked the car we let it idle for a bit and 30 seconds later it started to smoke agian.

What could it be? How much oil should i have put in? i put a whole gallon of castro 10 w30. Could it be the return line not flowing right?

Please help!

[DevilMB3017]

There a lot of things it could be...

It could be a headgasket leak and it's burning oil/coolant or blowing either out the back.

It could be the oil return line, does it go straight down the turbo directly to the pan with no bends/kinks? What turbo are you using and what size are your oil lines? You might need a restricter. Was the turbo new or used?

Not having a wideband doesn't go over well in this forum .

What color was the smoke? What did it smell like?

As for how much oil, you really should just use the 'stock' amount, considering the oil pan is only so big...

[beatd]

there is no smoke at the start of the car or while driving from the exhaust ONLY when i'm at a stoplight or not moving for 30 seconds. Also it was night so the smoke looked white and it didn't really have any smell to it.

i'm using the jgstools t25 oil line kit and i had the oil return bung welded at the back top left side of the oil pan right under the ac. the line ran in like a diagonal coming from the turbo under the engine mount bracket and then into the oil return bung. last i checked there wasn't a kink anywhere. it might because the oil return bung was welded straight out and not in an upward angle so the oil is not going directly in the pan from the turbo.

Also i'm wondering if i put too much oil in causing it to almost flood. Hopefully its not anything serious.

[DevilMB3017]

It definately sounds like an oil return thing to me. You might want to have the bung re-welded in a downward angle, especially since your retaining your A/C. (I have it too )

Well 1 gallon is 4 quarts, which is what your supposed to use...

[240sxvaj]

last i checked there wasn't a kink anywhere. it might because the oil return bung was welded straight out and not in an upward angle so the oil is not going directly in the pan from the turbo.

Also i'm wondering if i put too much oil in causing it to almost flood. Hopefully its not anything serious.

I second on the return line, i did the same thing at first w/jgs kit for my t25. If you welded the bung perpendicular(90degree) to the pan then you have a problem. The pan tilts a little down when on the motor so having it straight out is going to have a loop, where oil wont return back causing it to smoke. I been through this and thought i blew my motor, it only smokes after a while of driving, also i believe the color should be black.

Here's a picture of how mine looks like. that looks like its the best way for t2 set-up. also have it angle up as far as you can w/out conflicting w/anything

[beatd]

my return line is like yours but when i put the fitting on the bung it looked like it was pointing downwards i guess i'm going to have the pan rewelded. i'll try to drain some oil out also because i think i put too much in.

[240sxvaj]

my return line is like yours but when i put the fitting on the bung it looked like it was pointing downwards i guess i'm going to have the pan rewelded. i'll try to drain some oil out also because i think i put too much in.

If you look closely my bung is angle upward. the oil pan tilts downward. If you look under the car and see the bung pointing downward then you have a problem. Also 4 quart is perfect for the car, while draining out the oil, you can measure 4 qts and put it in the oil pan to see how high it is to be exact w/ pan out of car.

[beatd]

i'll try to drain some oil first and see if it works because taking that oil pan out is a pita.

[DevilMB3017]

The oil pan is a PITA to take back off, but thats better then damaging a turbo or motor...

[240sxvaj]

It's not that bad after the first try. car on jacks, take out turbo(dont think you have to), take out bolts blocking for the transmission plate(whatever its call), loosen engine mounts and using a jack lift right where the transmission and engine meets, unbolt oil pan/oil sucker, and unbolt sway bar for some room and you're done. (not responsible for anyone getting hurt while using this procedure)

[beatd]

I finally got a chance to work on my car agian. When i got under the car i saw that my oil drain hose had alot of slack so i cut around 3.5 inches off of it to make it more straight forward from turbo to oil pan. Also i drained some oil to make the oil level with the oil drain bung. After all that i drove it around town and let it idle after driving back home and NO more smoke.

Hopefully that was all the problem, but i have another problem now it keeps stalling. The SAFC Dec air setting throttle was at 0.1% should that be like 1.5%?

[WDRacing]

For stalling either vent the bov to return or run your maf as a blowthrough setup. Those are the only mthods that really work. I've never had much luck with the decel air settings.

WD

[beatd]

yea i'm having a hard time driving with all the stalling. i dont know what else to do