Help. new Clutch barely engaging

[Zion8561]

1992 240sx DOHC 5 speed.

Just finished installing a new ACT clutch but can't get the clutch to engage until the pedal is let out all the way, it barely catches at the last second.

So i tried to adjust the pedal using the MC rod, but when I adjust it to make the clutch engage sooner (adjust more threads toward the pedal side) all it does is start sucking the actual pedal down to the floor. So the pedal is closer to the floor, it has about 1-2 inches of freeplay but it still only catches at the last minute when the pedal is let out.

It is like the clutch is always partially disengaged even though the pedal is out and there is even room for me to pull the pedal up more. Any ideas on what it could be? I don't think it is a problem with bleeding it since it has enough force to disengage the clutch easily.

[Zion8561]

Well, maybe i will try to bleed it when my wife gets home. The pedal feels solid though. Also there isn't any constant pressure on the slave cylinder because I can wiggle the end of the slave piston with the pedal released...so?

On a side note, I also just got the BRM exhaust put in and it sounds nice.

[S13_RB25]

Since you have a s13, when bleeding the clutch check to see if the damper box is still there. If so take that thing off.

[breadbox]

From FSM

Bleed air according to the following procedure.
Clutch damper --> Clutch operating cylinder . Carefully monitor fluid level at master cylinder during bleeding
operation.
1. Top up reservoir with recommended brake fluid.
2. Connect a transparent vinyl tube to air bleeder valve.
3. Fully depress clutch pedal several times.
4. With clutch pedal depressed, open bleeder valve to release
air.
5. Close bleeder valve.
6. Repeat steps 3 through 5 above until brake fluid flows from
air bleeder valve without air bubbles.

[Zion8561]

Yeah, Forgot to mention I took off the damper box a while back and installed a SS line. I will bleed it in a few hours and see if that makes a difference. I did notice a little fluid coming from the back of the master cylinder (where the clutch pedal linkage goes through the firewall) but it only did it when I adjusted the linkage all the way in. Might have let fluid out and air in when that happened...

[Zion8561]

Ok I think I have it figured out, but need a sanity check on this one just to make sure. We bled the clutch slave cyl and did get some air out, but the pedal still did not return all the way out. It would stop at the point the clutch engaged.

So I took a closer look at the clutch pedal "spring assist" and saw that it was busted. So in my theory, the only thing forcing the clutch pedal back out is the tension from the pressure plate. Once the clutch is engaged, the pressure plate is not forcing the slave/pedal to move any further out and it always feels like the clutch is engaging at the "last second". So that would explain why no matter how I adjusted the linkage, the pedal always stopped coming up at the same time the clutch engaged. The only thing that changed was the height of engagement...

I just need another mechanical mind to think this over and let me know if this is right. Please and thank you. I want to blast some mtn roads tomorrow...

[Zion8561]

Anyway, changed the clutch master cyl since it was leaking and clutch pedal since the tab was busted. The assist spring actually helps to push the clutch in and disengage. The master cyl has a return spring to push the pedal back out and engage (obviously the pressure plate is pushing the pedal back out as well).

I guess all is working properly, but it just feels different than the centerforce clutch in my hardbody. That will engage early in the pedal travel and the pedal will still follow back through a full range of motion. The ACT clutch in my 240 will actually stop pedal movement after the clutch is engaged.