help needed to revive a hurt Sileighty

[rider3234]

hello i need some serious help.
so i have a 1991 Nissan Sileighty with very lightly modified s13 red top Sr20det and for little over a year its been running fine but 2 weeks ago Calgary had a bad rain storm and i went through a huge puddle pretty fast and my car sucked up a ton of water. so obviously my car stalled, i took off the air filter and elbow and i dumped out about half a cup of water,with the filter off i started it and it started right away but idle roughly. after idling for about half an hour i figured i can baby it home and let it dry out, so i did and i didn't go over two grand rpm. After 2 days i took my car to work where i took apart every part of the intake system and made sure that they were bone dry and put it all back together. after that i figured i could now open it up, and when i first did at 3200 rpm my car started to violently buck and bog down with big clouds of black smoke coming out the exhaust and i couldn't go anywhere past 3200 rpm with anymore than 1/4 throttle without the same happening, however in neutral i could rev all the way through the power band. so i thought i missed some water so i took apart my intake hoses and made sure they were clean, i then thought it was the mass airflow sensor so i swapped it out yet nothing changed so i thought then it was the inter cooler so i took it off and made sure it was clean and dry. I reconnected it and still same thing.then i started smelling that my exhaust is really rich. i then disconnected the cold pipe and felt alot of air being pushed from the turbo side and a ton of suction from the throttle side,i tried that and i could drive to red line and it works fine except no boost so i took it that the inter cooler was blocked but then i tried just the hot pipe disconnected and it still lets me rev all the way. the only mods done to my engine are a oil filter re-locator kit,oil cooler, iridium plugs gaped at .35, after market bov and that's it. i am at a loss on wats happening so any help will be more than thankful

[the converted]

Have you looked at the turbo? There's a decent chance that you might have bent one or more of the blades.

[rider3234]

Ya that's kinda my worst fear I haven't got a chance to take it off and look at it yet

[EnjoiNismo]

Did you drain the oil after you got water in it?

[rider3234]

I know no ones gonna believe it but my oil is clean not a drop pf water in it

[rider3234]

So I got two questions...
first: wat happens to a redtop sr20det if it hits boost cut out
and second: with my turbo in my car all hooked up should u be able to move the actuator arm

[the converted]

There is no boost cut that I am aware of.
Should be hard to move, but you should be able to move it.

[compactfean]

You should not be able to move the actuator arm very easily. It is spring loaded and should be very resistant to manual movement. If its the stock actuator than during a boost leak test it shouldnt even start moving until about 5psi. If you hear air leaking from it than it need to be replaced to avoid any chance of over boosting. Thats how you test it.

[rider3234]

Well in nuetral it only springs open for half a secnd when I let go of the throttle when it is almost redlined... if I don't wait till high rev it qont open

[the converted]

That's because there isn't enough load to build boost when you are revving in neutral. That momentary opening is just a quick spike in boost pressure from the throttle plate closing.

re-reading your initial post, you either destroyed the compressor turbine by sucking water through it, or have a boost leak somewhere in the system. Check your turbo, and do a boost leak test.

[compactfean]

If that thing moves I would look at upgrading you bov. When it moves when its at redline and closing the throttle, that means that the bov is not large enough to release the pressure fast enough and is still pressurized before the throttle plate which is not good on the turbo. Other than that...yeah, what the converted said.

[rider3234]

Ok well ill be taking the turbo off soon so ill let u guys know any updates... thanks for the help

[rider3234]

hey so latest update on my car
its still f*** up
but i have now installed three glow shift gauges: air/fuel, oil pressure, boost/vacuum gauge.
so as im driving i have been looked at my guages and this is the what happens...
as i accelerate (at full throttle) my boost goes up to 3 psi and stays there until it does its bogging and idling i have 20 mm/hg of vacuum and keeps fine on vacuum
my oil pressure is at around 20psi for idle and 60 while driving, side question wat is the lowest ad highest safe limit to oil pressure
and finally my air/fuel meter it is pushed to the farthest point of the rich area,then when i floor it i jumps to super lean and then back to rich...
if that helps in giving u a idea please let me know

[compactfean]

You have a massive boost leak.

[rider3234]

Ok compactfean u were right

Turns out my bov was leaking severly... I disconnected my vaccum hosr and pluged it and now my car runs great... thanks everyone immensly u have revived the sileighty

[rider3234]

ok as much as i hate to admit it the issue is back.
i installed a new greddy type rz bov and it worked great for a few weeks and now it seems to be having the same issue but now even when i unplug my vaccum line and im getting to 5 psi boost and it still messes up any ideas?

[compactfean]

Tighten up the bov. Also do a boost leak test at different psi to see what and when you have a leak.

[rider3234]

would it cause it to randomly leak.
like i was running just fine yesterday then it just started so i looked at it and unplugged the bov then plugged in and it fixed then today it started again but it wont work with the bov unplugged