HELP NEEDED, 96 PATH'S ENGINE BLOCK COOLANT DRAIN PLUG BOLT

[farfrom]

Hello.
I am new, and this is my first posting. I have combed through in search of some advice, but have come up empty.
Thus this post.
I am in the midst of draining/flushing the coolant fluid from my '96 Path.

I have the SERVICE MANUAL (SM) (Nov 1995) and am following all of the instruction to a tee, however I have run into a brick wall with the removal of the passenger side ENGINE BLOCK COOLANT DRAIN PLUG BOLT, namely, I cannot freely access it enough to get the torque needed to free her. I have even gone as far as to remove the STARTER, thinking that it's wiring harness was in the way, (to no avail). The problem seems to be that in the only positions in which the offset wrench fits flush on to the bolt, there remains zero clearance left to loosen, (on one side it abuts a pop-out in the oil pan, and the other lays on the alternator), and a ratchet will not fit. I figure that if I needed to remove the something relatively major as the ALT. (for it seems that with it out of the way access would be granted) that the SM would mention it. I guess I could leave it and just proceed with the flush, but ...

Any advice would be greatly appreciated?

Also, is there any way to bleed the air without making use of the AIR RELIEF BOLT/BLEEDER VALVE? Mine will not budge. The box end 10mm and the vice grips are only stripping the hex. I have ordered a new OEM, so I am open to all, any suggestions?

Thanks.

[Towncivilian]

It isn't necessary to remove the engine block drain plugs as they are extremely difficult to access. I would proceed with the flush without that.

The air relief plug is covered with a black rubber plug at the rear center firewall of the engine. You should not need any tools other than some pliers to remove the clamp securing the plug.

You can also bleed air by parking up on a curb or something so that the radiator cap is the highest point in the system, then run the engine with the cap off until all of the air burps out. Top off as required.

Welcome to NICO!

[farfrom]

Thanks! It is a relief to learn that I will not have to battle with that BLEEDER SCREW and DRAIN PLUGS.
This is what I had mistaken for the AIR RELIEF:
http://www.dropshots.com/farfrom#date/2 ... 1/16:12:14
I was going by what the Haynes manual has pictured...a mistake I won't soon be making.

[Chuck Tribolet]

Towncivilian: it's a '96. The '96 FSM shows just what his picture shows for the air relief plug -- a hex-head thing --
not the rubber cap the twin-cams have.

Chuck

[Towncivilian]

My bad, I thought both the engines had similar relief plugs. Are you certain 10mm is the proper size for the hex bolt? Have you tried any penetrating oil (PB Blaster, etc)?

[Chuck Tribolet]

I think he needs a six-sided socket and a nice long breaker bar, after letting it soak all weekend in PB Blaster.
Stuff a bunch of paper towels under it our you'll have PB Blaster on the exhaust manifold and enough smoke you'll think
somebody snuck some seafoam in. And make darn sure you get all the paper towels out (I'd keep a count) or you might
have a fire.

Chuck

[farfrom]

I have yet to try penetrating oil, but will. Also, I confirmed the 10mm with calipers. After a long soak, and taking into consideration your safety advice, Mr. Tribolet, I will try a breaker bar on the top side AIR RELIEF PLUG.

I am confused a bit though, the SERVICE MANUAL includes this illustration in connection with the COOLANT DRAIN/FLUSH procedure:
http://www.dropshots.com/farfrom#date/2 ... 1/19:26:32