It will cost you much more to do repeated labor than to do all at once.FDR Dippin wrote:What up guys, help me figure out how to rehab my suspension without splurging on everything all at once.
Is FDR dippin a reference to Warm Springs?Are upper links different than sway bar links on your year model?FDR Dippin wrote:What up guys, help me figure out how to rehab my suspension without splurging on everything all at once. My ride is a little "rattly" and squeeky over bumps and coming to a stop. I'll need to do this over several months.Assume I have no history of suspension work except for what I've done which is Upper links and Tie Rod Ends. The only thing any mechanic has mentioned to me is that driver's side ball joint has a very small amount of play.
Please tell me what needs to be done together? Or should i just start hurding parts and do everything in like 6mos or so?
And for extra credit, please list which 5 you'd do first if you didn't know the last time it was done.1. CD Head unit2. New Battery3. Clean Ground Points4. Spark Plugs5. Professionally Clean Injectors (use BG quick clean now)6. Fuel Pump and Controller 7. Replace leaky Front Passenger Calliper8. Clean Plenum9. Fan Clutch and Blade
If nothing else, tell me about the suspension work please oh great NICO, I humbly request you speak now...
First, I have a full set of Tokico Blues & Eibach lowering springs with all fresh boots/rubber components for sale. The front lower mounting point is diff bewteen 90-93 & 94-96, so I'm looking to seel these versus just swapping the front shocks. This would be a big help, as it's a simple remove/replace. I also have both some stock (new & slightly used) and aftermarket Tension Rods. So, if you're serious about re-habbing the suspension, let me know.FDR Dippin wrote:What up guys, help me figure out how to rehab my suspension without splurging on everything all at once. My ride is a little "rattly" and squeeky over bumps and coming to a stop. I'll need to do this over several months.Assume I have no history of suspension work except for what I've done which is Upper links and Tie Rod Ends. The only thing any mechanic has mentioned to me is that driver's side ball joint has a very small amount of play.
Please tell me what needs to be done together? Or should i just start hurding parts and do everything in like 6mos or so?
And for extra credit, please list which 5 you'd do first if you didn't know the last time it was done.1. CD Head unit2. New Battery3. Clean Ground Points4. Spark Plugs5. Professionally Clean Injectors (use BG quick clean now)6. Fuel Pump and Controller 7. Replace leaky Front Passenger Calliper8. Clean Plenum9. Fan Clutch and Blade
If nothing else, tell me about the suspension work please oh great NICO, I humbly request you speak now...
Not that you cant use the Everlast. I think the Optima should probably last longer. Better to spend $110 once than $70 twice. I have the Optima in my Q because I know it's the best and I didn't want to have to worry about it for a while. I've already gone through 3 regular batteries in the 10 years. I'm hoping I can get 5 out of the Optima.FDR Dippin wrote:Why is Optima the only battery i should choose Rex, What's wrong with a Walmart everlast? I have never paid more than $70 for a battery and i'm uncertain the Optima is going to be that more beneficial to me.
As far as the other stuff that need to be done, I'd make sure the engine is running well before I'd spend money on the suspension stuff and do the calliper thing first because brakes are important. Then do the fuel pump so you don't mess up the fuel controller. The CD head unit should be the last thing on your list. I'v gotten by without one for 11 years, I'm sure you can wait until you get some of the other stuff done.FDR Dippin wrote:And for extra credit, please list which 5 you'd do first if you didn't know the last time it was done.1. CD Head unit2. New Battery3. Clean Ground Points4. Spark Plugs5. Professionally Clean Injectors (use BG quick clean now)6. Fuel Pump and Controller 7. Replace leaky Front Passenger Calliper8. Clean Plenum9. Fan Clutch and Blade
Good point Rex. I didn't even think about that. I still have my original alternator. It wont have to work as hard in it's old age.Rex wrote:It's not the $110 once versus $70 twice, as far as I'm concerned it's the early demise of your alt that would be my issue. A cheaper battery will require more frequent recharges, thus wearing the alt out sooner. That's where it can cost alot of $$$.
Optima Red Top:FDR Dippin wrote:I just called around local Advance Auto, $148 with old battery trade-in, Local battery dealer $151Summit racing $129.88 but after the cost of getting to the store, might as well say $148 also. Where did you get yours for $110, or maybe the price was lower when you bought it?If not Optima, then what...no other batteries are good enough for the Q?Still haven't tried Autozone, but i'd predict similar price to Advance.
Sorry. I didn't mean to be a pain in the arse. I saw you were a newbie and I just wanted to make sure you knew what you were getting into. Good thing you have T3 by you. I would use them as much as you can afford to.FDR Dippin wrote:Lou the ladies must love your strongarmedness. The first repair I did was chain guides at T3 and had them do a once over check up.
An amount equal to the lost suspension travel. About .75" to 1.25" depending on whether you renew the rubber and spring mounts.FDR Dippin wrote:How much height will i loose with Tokiko's and Eibachs?
As Brian (Maxnix ) said, ~1 inch, give or take based on a few things.FDR Dippin wrote:... How much height will I loose with Tokiko's and Eibachs?
Source of crap in Bose system usually the amps on the speakers, not the head unit.FDR Dippin wrote: keep Crappy bose head unit.