Help me save my z before I blow it up.

[Roach]

aaaaaah! I know I'm not the first goon in history to buy a nice z31 to do because it's rear wheel drive and looks alot faster than it is (ummm... almost a tear that day). I love the car I'm really committed to build it for the sole purpose of making everybody who sold theirs because it was too expensive or hard jealous. Other than my current problem which is the connector to my fpr.... disconnected itself and is now broken?.. and get this... it ran better without it yet won't start when warm??? one way trips for a while... ok now thst I've got all my whining out the way (anybody got some cheese?) here's the business

I want the car lowered and sturdy which = being lucky enough to find a z31 coilover kit online (no longer manufactured in america from what I've seen) or go through booty loads of trouble and moolah converting to s14 suspension.. still doable that is really the largest obstacle I believe I'll encounter this will change the car's behavior entirely no more semi-wheelies at 10 mile an hour launches (every z31 owner knows the kinda feels fast oh wait look at the speedometer feeling) ok next

PowerPlantI want around 4 to 500hp on this one with tq upwards of 350. options are stick with single cam vg30e since I already have the motor I've oberved the block is over built (can take 1000hp) as well as the internals (550 500 reliably) so naturally, because I actually like having money this is the most likely route, however thinking ahead.. what about when I want more?? built internals will be harder to find as time goes on... even though more cash is a must as well as a pain in my rear what about rb25-26? vg30dett? I've even considered getting a pathfinder vg33 since it's eqyually reliable and a newer motor I can get with less miles on it.

Sorry I ranted it's just irritating (z fever seems to be an appropriate title for thst website I swear) however If any of you guys especially the experienced ones have any advice at all whether it's an opinion, a link, um pictures of swaps, suspension advice, however small I will take it all in with gratitude. I seldom have time to go over a friends house for the internet so If you could email me ([email protected]) advice answers whatever I would really appreciate it. consider the fact that if you live in the Richmond area and wanted to help there is $ making oppurtunity for you. thanks [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

[AZ-ZBum]

read:http://www.vg30et.com

read:http://www.redz31.net

read:http://z31.com

400hp isn't hard. 350ft-lbs is long before 400hp.

[Roach]

I was unaware I said anything dumb?.. I'm new not only to this build but to all of the information I need to know that comes with it.

[Perrenial Badass]

^ That's ZBum being nice.

The S13/S14 rear suspension swap isn't really hard from what I've seen, but requires welding skills. As for coilovers, you can cut the front strut tube down and weld on a Serial9 adapter so you can thread in coilovers. The rears will bolt up without further modification.

Read this ish:http://z31performance.com/foru...&t=22h ... ru...17615

Don't need coilovers for the car to handle good. Few people will take advantage of the adjustability of the coilovers, so a good set of springs and dampers will serve you just as well. I know a guy with some unused TSS springs he wants to sell if you are interested. Another option would be the Z3Rs, similar spring rates between the two. Follow up with the camber mod on the stock rear suspension, some camber plates up front, good dampers, poly bushings, and beefier (87+ turbo, SS, or MSA) swaybars. It will likely have more ability than you know what to do with at that point.

z31parts.comhttp://z31performance.com/foru...=5232http://z31performance.com/foru...16211http://z31performance.com/foru...=5271

Power-wise, the VG you have will do fine. If you feel the need to spend money, The VG33 will add displacement (always a good thing). Also, you can modify that to be ~4.0L when bored out and stroked. The stock internals are good to about 500hp, but I would propose forged internals for longevity's sake at that point. Beyond that; big turbo, big injectors, Nistune.

[Roach]

thanks alot that's exactly what I was looking for on this forum thank you. And as for the springs maybe. My cousin's husband is in japan for his work and is looking to see what he can do to get me something. Only a maybe though I'll let you know. And from what I gather the stock n/a fuel injectors can only support 300. which would be fine for getting used to the suspension but I hear it's a pain to get aftermarket ones because of the way they fit and I'll need machine work done? The vg33 depends on what I run accross. If all I want is 500 alll I need is the vg30e. I've been preached to by the older more experienced guys I know that a reliable 250 hp turbo setup is far better than 500 that needs repair or rebuild every few thousand miles so I'd rather do it right. Build it sloww and grow witht he car since I'm still a young driver. thanks alot though very useful links too.

[evildky]

I think you were looking at az's sig

I wouldn't waste my time wiht the 3.3, it sounds like the 3.0 will get you where you want to go

big turbo, big injectors, engine managment intercooler, intake and exhaust and you're there

[Perrenial Badass]

NA injectors won't support 300hp. They will support blowing your pistons into 300 pieces if you try boosting for 300hp though.

The stock turbo injectors are okay to up around 250hp. Too much past that I would personally upgrade, but I can't remember how much off hand the stock ones will max out at. The fuel pressure can make it vary, you can mess with the fuel pressure to get a bit more out of the injectors.

My advice would be to do the stock NA2T, and work on the suspension. After you have springs, dampers, bushings taken care of; then build an intercooler setup, up the boost a little bit, and get a full 3" turbo-back exhaust. 12-15psi will be about the most you will want to run. At this power level you will need a new clutch, so start upgrading the drivetrain at this point.

Now for the drivetrain, the best (simplest) option is to get everything out of a 87-89T sans the flywheel and clutch. There's more aftermarket for the 240mm 84-89NA and 84-86T flywheel than the 87-89T 250mm flywheel. The R30A transmission you might want to consider rebuilding before dropping it in. The stock 71C can hold the power fine until you get that rebuilt. The CLSD is something else that you can just toss in, but I would personally rebuild it also.http://z31performance.com/foru...=6294h ... ru...art=0

The 71C currently in your car is strong enough to hold 500hp, but it isn't as strong as the R30A. So drag racing isn't something I would recommend there.

The weakest transmission is pretty much universally accepted to be the T5. The S30/S130 guys will probably fight me on that point. But reguardless of what all those wrong people think, you can rebuild the T5 into a WC T5, which might be able to take the power you want on a daily basis. Read this thread, most of he good stuff is on the second page. Somebody was offering a conversion service, but I can't remember for the life of me who it was.http://z31performance.com/foru...rsion

Another option is a Z32 transmission. It's the same internally as the R30A, pretty much.http://z31performance.com/foru...=2536

Once you have the driveline sorted out (I'd choose a clutch good for ~350hp), then you can start building the engine up more. You can get a VG33 to build up if you like, but as I said you don't really need it for your goals. I would personally get a second long block to build up. That way you can drive your Z as you build up the engine.

Take the stock NA ECU and have it modified for Nistune, get some bigger injectors, and tear down your second block. The pistons are what fail first, so get some forged goodness there. The easiest blocks to find are the A/B series, so a W series crank and some forged Z32 rods will wrap it up nicely. Once you have whatever headwork you want done, you can throw this engine into the Z on your stock setup with the Nistune and injectors. Set up a basic, safe tune on those injectors and break in the motor. Once the motor is well broken in, you can get back to modifying. EDIT: Once you get some Walbro goodness in the gas tank, that is.

The turbo will be the limiting factor at this point. I'm not even going to bother running down the turbo options since the result is the same... have somebody fabricate up a new manifold to fit your turbo. Smaller turbos will fit in the stock location, some even have the T3 foot so will bolt right up. Some will fit once the wheel well gets familiar with a hammer. There just isn't the space for some of the larger turbos that will suck in a baby.

[Roach]

yeah thanks alot man thats exactly what I'm looking for thank you. I knew na injectors wouldn't hold 300 I was referring to vg30et injectors but that's fine. Plus I'm buying a 240 saturday with a dohc as a daily needs a lifter.. doucher says it was knocking and was a bad motor.. yeah talked him down alot. Plus once I get space I have access to 2 other z31's 88 and 87 the 88 is the turbo model with digital guages the other has busted rear glass and is destroyed on the inside. both have rims and are primer gray with perfect vg30 e motors one with 189k the other 1011k.. bioth for 800 bucks.. a deal for parts car and an alternate build

[evildky]

the Z31 T5 is weaker than the S130 T5 due to a longer input shaft and a neckdown on the imput shaft

the n/a trans form the Z31 tends to be over stated, it's been known to blow out around 400 whp

and the W series and DE rods are nearly identical, and both are a bit dainty but borht are known to handle well in excess of the stated power goals

the turbo upgrade isn't that big of a deal, any garret T3 based turbo will work, you just have the stock exhaust housing milled to accept the larger exhaust wheel form the upsized turbo, or get the satan turbo relocation pipe, or make an ugly downpipe form scrap pipe like I did

if that 88 is a turbo, that means it's got the clsd, which is worth $600 alone

[Roach]

that's awesome I'm now becoming more optimistic with all the information you guys have to offer. I also read a j30 lsd drops right in the rear of my car however how much power can they take? I get mixed nswers searching.

[evildky]

no, the J30 uses the short snout R200 with a viscous carrier, so put it in your Z31, you's need to swap the carrier form the J case into your case whih meanns swappign gears and setting backlash, and you's also need halfshafts and compnaion flanges fomr an 88 SS

the for mroe simple direct bolt in lsd swap and better carrier is any 87.5-89 z31 turbo, thsy have the CLSD and ti nbolts right in

[Roach]

gotcha was just a thought. I have a far more pressing yet simplee problem right now. My wire that connects to this threaded screw type thing that screws into my fpr broke at the wire due to rust. It seems I can't buy the part anywhere. since the damage my car starts fine. idles and runs fine til warm then runs rich and blows black smoke. then won't start if attempted while warm(btw runs a little too warm need another thermostat top hose hot bottom not so much). will crank but not fire and I smell gas. let it sit for a few hours rinse repeat. wtf do I do?

[Perrenial Badass]

What, the fuel temp sensor? Replace it. IDk if you can get it from Autozone, might have to get it from Nissan.



http://www.courtesyparts.com/2...=2317&

[Roach]

yeah thats it! thanks alot nobodycarries it though.ebasy it up . thanks man