I'll give ya cliffs:
-Get in car. Feels like power steering is going out, when I turn it, it turns easy, then hard (like the PS going out). -Open engine bay, notice that the belt slows way down almost to a halt when the wheel is turned and I hear the annoying screeching noise. (When wheel is turned almost all the way) Also the FAN slows down too since it's connected to the belts.-Had all the service belts changed about 1 month ago.-On way limping home, was going 60, then felt the car start slowing down as if I downshifted. Wouldn't go past 2500rpms or else it would choke. Coolant = GONE and temp. = WAY PAST H.-Put some more coolant in, let engine cool, limped home, car ran fine (cept the PS issue).
Any ideas? (1997 240sx KA24DE)
Help me diagnose my car :(
Re: Coolant Leak
When it comes to coolant leaks, do the common sense stuff first.For example, monitor the level and activity of the coolantreservoir. When the engine cools down, the low pressure in a tightcooling system should draw coolant in from the reservoir. What'smore, the reservoir coolant level on a hot engine should beconsistent if the cooling system is leak free.
Locating a small leak can be difficult because the coolant oftenevaporates as soon as it leaks out. Pressurize the system with ahand operated pressure checker and give it a thorough visualinspection. It could take a while for a pinhole to create thetelltale stains you search for during diagnosis.
Hunting for leaks with a hand operated pressure checker can be timeconsuming because you have to keep pumping the thing up to maintainpressure on the system. Pressure testers that rely on shop aireliminate manual pumping, allowing you to keep your eyes focused onsuspected leak points. Wear protective goggles when hunting forcoolant leaks.
Remember that checking the system cold may reveal a leak you can'tfind when the system is hot. It's well known that problems such asleaking water pump seals are more likely to occur when the engineis cold.
Adding a fluorescent leak-detection dye to the coolant is the mostaccurate way to locate elusive external coolant leaks, including aseeping water pump concealed by other engine components. Leaktracing dye also is a great quality control tool because a dyecheck after a repair is completed shows you that the troublesomeleak is finally fixed.
Note three details about the dye method: First, you must clean upexisting dye stains before retesting. If you don't, you won't knowif you're looking at a recurring leak or dye lingering from theprevious leak. Some techs just use solvent for this task. As ofthis writing, one manufacturer (Tracer Products) offers a waterbased, nontoxic spray cleaner for removing fluorescent dye.
Second, you need a UV (ultraviolet or "black light") lamp to spotfluorescent dye. The more powerful the black light, the easier itis to see dye traces on a dirty engine inside a dark engine bay.
Third, UV lamps are fairly large and tough to maneuver inside acrowded engine compartment. Today, at least one compact, flashlightsize UV light (Tracer Products again!) is available for automotiveleak detection.
The ease of pinpointing a coolant/combustion leak depends on theseverity and location of the leak. Begin by checking for pressurebuildup inside the coolant reservoir and/or a persistent sweet odorof antifreeze in the exhaust.
Comparing spark plugs can help flag an internal coolant leak. Lookfor a plug that's noticeably cleaner than the others with no carbondeposits on it, with the porcelain around the center electrodelooking almost spotless. Inspect the combustion chamber that sparkplug came from with a small dental mirror and a shop light. You'llfind the chamber also looking unusually clean due to the steamcleaning action of the coolant leak.
Antifreeze in the exhaust taints the oxygen sensor, turning the tipof the sensor green or a grainy, brownish white color. Eventually,leaking coolant also can contaminate and clog a catalyticconverter.
Looking for combustion gas bubbles inside the radiator can bemisleading. It's easy to mistake air venting or even a stickingthermostat for combustion bubbles.
When it comes to coolant leaks, do the common sense stuff first.For example, monitor the level and activity of the coolantreservoir. When the engine cools down, the low pressure in a tightcooling system should draw coolant in from the reservoir. What'smore, the reservoir coolant level on a hot engine should beconsistent if the cooling system is leak free.
Locating a small leak can be difficult because the coolant oftenevaporates as soon as it leaks out. Pressurize the system with ahand operated pressure checker and give it a thorough visualinspection. It could take a while for a pinhole to create thetelltale stains you search for during diagnosis.
Hunting for leaks with a hand operated pressure checker can be timeconsuming because you have to keep pumping the thing up to maintainpressure on the system. Pressure testers that rely on shop aireliminate manual pumping, allowing you to keep your eyes focused onsuspected leak points. Wear protective goggles when hunting forcoolant leaks.
Remember that checking the system cold may reveal a leak you can'tfind when the system is hot. It's well known that problems such asleaking water pump seals are more likely to occur when the engineis cold.
Adding a fluorescent leak-detection dye to the coolant is the mostaccurate way to locate elusive external coolant leaks, including aseeping water pump concealed by other engine components. Leaktracing dye also is a great quality control tool because a dyecheck after a repair is completed shows you that the troublesomeleak is finally fixed.
Note three details about the dye method: First, you must clean upexisting dye stains before retesting. If you don't, you won't knowif you're looking at a recurring leak or dye lingering from theprevious leak. Some techs just use solvent for this task. As ofthis writing, one manufacturer (Tracer Products) offers a waterbased, nontoxic spray cleaner for removing fluorescent dye.
Second, you need a UV (ultraviolet or "black light") lamp to spotfluorescent dye. The more powerful the black light, the easier itis to see dye traces on a dirty engine inside a dark engine bay.
Third, UV lamps are fairly large and tough to maneuver inside acrowded engine compartment. Today, at least one compact, flashlightsize UV light (Tracer Products again!) is available for automotiveleak detection.
The ease of pinpointing a coolant/combustion leak depends on theseverity and location of the leak. Begin by checking for pressurebuildup inside the coolant reservoir and/or a persistent sweet odorof antifreeze in the exhaust.
Comparing spark plugs can help flag an internal coolant leak. Lookfor a plug that's noticeably cleaner than the others with no carbondeposits on it, with the porcelain around the center electrodelooking almost spotless. Inspect the combustion chamber that sparkplug came from with a small dental mirror and a shop light. You'llfind the chamber also looking unusually clean due to the steamcleaning action of the coolant leak.
Antifreeze in the exhaust taints the oxygen sensor, turning the tipof the sensor green or a grainy, brownish white color. Eventually,leaking coolant also can contaminate and clog a catalyticconverter.
Looking for combustion gas bubbles inside the radiator can bemisleading. It's easy to mistake air venting or even a stickingthermostat for combustion bubbles.
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michael1284
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2003 9:17 am
Well thing is, from the time I first got into the car and noticed the power steering problem, I drove a good 15 miles somewhere and checked the coolant and fluids there, it was fine. It was upon driving another 5 before the car went limp and temps maxed out.
On another note, why would the power steering be going out and the belts slowing down when I'm turning the steering wheel, and why is the fan also slowing down??
On another note, why would the power steering be going out and the belts slowing down when I'm turning the steering wheel, and why is the fan also slowing down??