Help me decode why im running so rich..by looking at this video

[chicos240]

This is a video of my screen as I drive at regular city and highway driving. Notice how on the upper right is my o2 sensor, and its just going crazy and super rich.Its an s14sr20det. No mods, walbro fuel pump, Bigger fuel filter, and New CHRA on t28 trubo.What do you suggest?FPR?New Injectors?The o2 sensor is maybe 6 months oldheres the vidThank you for your help.

[redtop91]

Maybe the fuel pump pushing fuel past the stock FPR?

[chicos240]

Well, thats a thought, but this guy doesnt think so...zerothread?id=281364I searched...i did..i did....I dont want to buy a new FPR, then go DOH! its an Injector...or DOH its my steering wheel!

[ddgsxr504]

I'm going to have to go with the other guy and say that you need to replace your coolant temp sensor. I don't think the sensor is completely dead but it may be shorting out causing faulty readings and a bad CTS will cause sypmtoms that you describe, it's a fairly common problem with SR20's.

[redtop91]

I'd agree. I've had no problems with my stock FPR and Walbro. Checked the usual richness causes like metered air leaks, o-rings, 02 sensor, yadda yadda?

[chicos240]

hmmmm...well, that might explain why my DIF fan controller is no longer working correctly.BUTTTTT the readings on the Blazt software are right, and the voltages are good I took a voltmeter to it. Can I get a second?

[ddgsxr504]

Like I said it may still work but intermittently, is could be fine when you test it with the volt meter but you can't check it under load and while driving which is when it gives you trouble.

I would check for a leaky injector or bad O2 as a back up.

[ILikeMy240sx]

did you ever pull your plugs out to see if, in fact, you are running pig rich as your O2 sensor says?

Where is the software getting your water temp measurements from? It seems to be reading a bit below 160... That's kind of low if your car is fully warmed up.

[chicos240]

I will pull my plugs this evening, and take a look, though im sure im pig rich, cause its bogging like crazy and hesitant when I step on the pedal.I am assuming the software is getting those readings from the ECM since its a Blazt cable. I picked up a new temp sensor and a fuel pressure gauge at lunch.I will check for voltage with old temp sensor cold.Install new temp sensor and check the voltage.If I get different readings that will be the first clue.I will then go for a drive and see if all is well. If it gets warmer than 158 than we know what the issue was.If this doesnt work, I will check the fuel pressure, cause the gauge was like 40 bucks and I rather not open the package If I do not have to.

[ILikeMy240sx]

sounds like a plan. Let us know how things go after you replace your CTS.

BTW, where did you get this data-logging program/hardware?

[chicos240]

Its the Blazt system....very much worth the money. I just set my timing to dead balls on 15. Beautiful...So I changed the CTS, with one from kragen for the 95 240sx....its crap, I threw codes...SO I tired the one from my KA and it worked just fine...but Im still bogging.....AHHHH!SO the CTS is not the problem....Im gonna tighten up all my zip ties....

[chicos240]

UPDATE:I went out on some 0-60 runs by some abandoned buildings.I used stock boost and it worked ok, but still bogging.I used my first setting(which is 15 % over stock boost)...got a little better.I used my second setting( 30% )...working okI used my third (50%) ok, but not fabulous.I used my foruth (75% of stock) so thats maybe .75 x 7 psi+ 7 psi=12.25 psiAnd on 2nd gear I heard a POP sound like a very loud pringles can. Car shuts off.Car starts it gets to 1000 RPM then dies. Over and over.Its pitch black, all I have is a small mag lite. I open the hood and I unplug my TPS ( throttle position sensor )and my MAF ( mass airflow sensor ). Car starts but of course cant rev past 2500 RPM. I turn car off plug in TPS and turn back on and it idles fine. I then Limp the car home at 10 miles an hour for 3 miles. Next morning I looked and it turns out the SMIC ( side mount intercooler ) cold pipe (the one coming out ) has popped its hose, hence the sound I heard. WHich makes perfect sense on why unplugging the MAF made it idle ok.I went through and re did all of my vacuum tubing, and clamped all connections again. Now the car runs beautiful. Turns out I had minor vacuum leaks and BOOST leaks.I am still running rich, but not as badly. Im going to try hotter plugs like the iridiums bkr7eix. Anyone have any thoughts on this. Im assuming that hotter plugs means more burnt fuel and less richness.Thank you all.I write this so others may search and learn.

[ILikeMy240sx]

What plugs are you running now? If you say that BKR7EIX is hotter then you are saying that you are running a plug in the 8 range which is way way way too cold for your setup.

7 is usually the coldest you want to fo for a T25 setup. 6 will probably run better which is hotter than 7.

Hotter plugs are better if you are not running too much boost as it will have better driveability when not at WOT.

BTW, you mention that you are running rich... how are you confirming this? Just a narrowband O2 sensor or a wideband?

[DJ Cool Breeze]

I bet you anything your running rich because the stock FPR is letting to much fuel in in.

I was running a 255 walbro fuel pump, 300zx turbo fuel filter, and stock fpr and the car was driving like crap and running insanely rich....after taking off the stock fpr and replacing it with and adjustable one my car runs great...its like night and day. It runs so much smoother, and i gained a good amount of power as well.

I no longer have the black soot on the back of my bumper, no more hesitating, and my car doesn't smell of gas all the time.

Trust me......Get a new Fuel pressure regulator!!!!

[chicos240]

DJ...what settings did you use and what FPR did you use?

[chicos240]

UPDATE:After rereading the FSM. realized second mark from right on main pulley is where 15 degrees is located when setting timing. I had it set at TDC ( top dead center ) second mark from the left. I dont know what I was thinking when i set it initially. I will re run the logging on way home an post, to see the changes in the O2 sensor readings.

(ILike)Guess I had those numbers backwards, I was guessing the greater the number the hotter the plug...I am already running BKR6IEXSO i guess that wont do it.I was getting the readings from the software with a regular O2 sensor.Can I use a wideband instead of the regular sensor?

[DJ Cool Breeze]

im using a knock off megan fuel pressure regulator...i have it set at 40psi.....

even if this is not the issue for your car running rich...i suggest getting a fpr reguardless. its good to have and its nice to know exactly how much fuel your pushing.....as i said before, just changing to a new fpr helped out my car a ton!...i gained so much more power from leaning my car out a little, and now i have no hesitation or bogging issues at all

and its a real, real, ez install!

keep us informed of whats going on with your car, im curious to see what infact is causing you to run rich