Help me and I'll give you $100

[goshoryuken]

Hey, as probably everyone knows . .my 89 240sx FB is in the shop and the mechanic doesn't know what's wrong with it. If anyone who has a 89 240sx thats running and has a ka24e engine . . and are around the nyc area . .please let me know. I will give you $100 for helping me. I just need the person to leave the car at the shop for a few hours so that the mechanic can swap a few parts and isolate the problem on my car and get it running . .. . my 240sx has been there for almost four months now . . . so please . .. help!!!

-GoShoryuken

[I H8 UR DSM]

i dont have a KA, but i have a mechanic out in suffolk county who is fluent w/ 240's....it might be wise to bring the car to a better mechanic

[goshoryuken]

Doesn't run well enough to drive . .plus no plates or insurance yet . . and I already had the mechanic fix the seized locks . . the power steering belt and a missing pulley for the belt . . body work on left door and right fender . . and hood hinges.. it's already gonna cost me like 700 - 1000 so i wanna stick with one mechanic . .if I get my car towed to another mechanic . . . then i'll have to pay a ****load

-GoShoryuken

[Phax]

In the long run, you might realize that you're better off going to a mechanic who is already fluent in 240's. It seems sort of hokey that your guy wants to randomly swap parts out from a working automobile. Nothing personal, but there's no way I'd give up my car to some half assed mechanic so that he can pull parts off of it, to TRY to get another car working. I'd be scared whether or not it would work again once he puts it back together.

[Just another 240]

tell us what's wrong with it, maybe we can help.

[goshoryuken]

I posted the problem many times and no one helped much . .. it's an idle problem.... goes like this

turn car on . . car turns on (every single time), car shakes a lot and dies after 5 seconds. If you give it gas . . it stays on . . but the second you take ur foot off . . . it starts to shake again and then give it another few seconds and it dies again . . . the rpm doesn't rise smoothly or stay in place either

I know these parts are good:plugs, wires, o2 sensor, maf, timing, temp sensor, vacuum sensor

I just dont know what else it could be . . the idle control valve? i cleaned it, but never adjusted it . . i told my mechanic to check it but he didn't tell me it was messed up . . could be . . could not be...

[r34 gtr]

uuuh...if you pay shipping ill give you a ka24e with a brand new top end and a badly knocking bottom end for free....i started it and it sounded like a diesel that had all 4 cylinders knocking. basically its shot, but it has a whole new top end, that part sounded fine. oh, my mom's rabbits ate all of the vacuum hoses this past week, so its kinda lacking there. it has the ecu though.

[Touchdown038]

Try giving the engine a vacuum test.... let me know if you need help with how to do that.

[krazy skwerel]

this is a far off chance but is the rubber boot that connects your intake hose to your intake manifold torn?mine is torn and it does that only not quite as severe. also perhaps a feul pressure regulator? just a thought.

[Touchdown038]

Wow, that is crazy.... mine is like that too... I just duct taped it together until I get a new one. Only problem is it's $70 from the dealer... just find a junkyard or someone parting one out and fix it if that's the problem.

[krazy skwerel]

damn 70 dollars i had no idea I went to buy one today but they were closed. all the ones at the junkyard seem to be dryrotted. I also thught of duct tape.

[Just another 240]

I posted the problem many times and no one helped much . .. it's an idle problem.... goes like this

turn car on . . car turns on (every single time), car shakes a lot and dies after 5 seconds. If you give it gas . . it stays on . . but the second you take ur foot off . . . it starts to shake again and then give it another few seconds and it dies again . . . the rpm doesn't rise smoothly or stay in place either

I know these parts are good:plugs, wires, o2 sensor, maf, timing, temp sensor, vacuum sensor

I just dont know what else it could be . . the idle control valve? i cleaned it, but never adjusted it . . i told my mechanic to check it but he didn't tell me it was messed up . . could be . . could not be...

i sort of had that problem before, only when i step on the clutch the car will die out on me. Well i changed my PCV valve and adjusted my alternator belt and the problem went away, so maybe you can take a look at the pcv.

[lessthanjakejohn]

hey ash, you have a good job right? so whats wrong with taking it to a good shop, even if its sorta out of your way?

[nissanrcer240]

my car did the EXACT(from what it sounds like) same thing when i first got it, so i took it back to the dealership where i got it and they fixed it for me;) , i think they put new injectors on it and a new fuel pump, not sure though

[StanBo]

I will ask around on the site and see if anyone has an extra SOHC. I know we have some DOHCs.

[bp2ooo]

i dont know what else they have tested, but i would be scared if your paying someone to fix your car and they cant figure it out... Anyways check the fuel filter, maybe its really pluged up. Check your fuel pressure, i think 240's should be around 30, but i could be wrong. I would say also check ifnot replace your iacv, but i think its gonna run your around 200 bucks. My car used to have an idle problem, where after i would drive it kinda hard, when i would go to idle it would get really rough and die. That ended up being the ide air control valve. Good luck, also is your check engine light on? It definatly sound like a fuel problem to me.

[goshoryuken]

No engine check light goes on . . I went to the mechanic today and harassed him about fixing the car . . I said he's not getting paid until he does, and he's getting paid like so far . . Id say about $670 including body work, paint (did a really good job), left side hood hinge, power steering pinion and belt, oil change, and I think that's about it, but he said that he would do the computer diagnostic but the cars ecu is too old or somethin like that. .. well . .I told him he has a week to fix it. I will and already have mentioned the idle air control valve and the pcv valve . .I hope he checks it soon . . most likely I'm thinking idle air valve. I dont think any rubber connectors are messed up from my visual inspection . .and the engine check light does NOT go on.... also, the prick who sold me the car mentioned a loose speed sensor on the transmission..

PS - Yeah, Id take it to the nissan guys, even though I called and they want $82/Hour for Diagnostic . .PLUS whatever the parts and labor costs . . so that's my last resort..

-GoShoryuken

[MeaAnik]

I have the same car as you and have been working on the same problem... you can check my postings about the stuff i did for it...i have a lot of improvement although i'm still working on it. There is a whole lot of stuff that is recommended on fixing the idle. I dont like the Nissan dealership for doing the work but they gave a few recommendations. You can go down there and talk to them about it and ask them what other people have done. The first think i did was to put new injection harnesses on it and soldered all the wires because by the time the car is that old just a few little wrigglings of the wires start to make a difference in how it runs. They also told me the car is sensitive to any fuel injectors other than nissan .. though the ones they gave me did not have the gap size specified in the owners manual so check that and crimp them down to size or whatever you do to make them right. Make sure all the wires are connected right where they need to go... even the Nissan people were trying to put my wires on wrong two or three times on my distributor... some people told me my spark plugs were in the wrong order but they werent ... i had them double-check the manual.. if your distributor rotor is like mine then it needs to be replaced... cheap part.. just be sure to get the numbers off the aluminum distributor to get the right part. I read on somewhere you should clean the mass air meter and sleepys13 just told me to "simply bend the male end that is on the injector a few degrees so it grinds against the connector better. I assume you already scraped off all the old corrosion, if not do so with a needle or small knife. Also make surethe female ends are not getting pushed up into the plastic socket instead of connecting." Maybe this will help... i tried anyway.

[007rik]

sounds like you might have a vacuum leak somewhere. the easiest way to find it is with a can of carb cleaner spray it around the vacuum hoses and if the idle goes up, you found your leak. (p.s. spray the hoses one by one!)