HELP!! ka24e intake/cam swap now it woun't start
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hardbody412
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2013 3:46 pm
- Car: 91 hardbody, ka24e, 31x10.50 on 15x10 Micky wheels, 5 inch lift
HELP!! ka24e intake/cam swap now it woun't start
OK so I'm new to the forum but I'm just looking for some advice because I want to make sure I didn't miss something dumb. Like the title says I swapped the intake(and all the sensors),fuel rail, 275cc (eclipse high impedience)injectors,ecu,and cam from a 90 240sx. My issue is it cranks but doesn't even try to start and when I pull the plugs out there, soaked in fuel. I think I did all the wiring correct but I didn't know where to wire the "hard closed" connecter from the throttle sensor into the truck harness so I just skipped it. My thought is if I some how got the cam timing off would that cause my flooded cyl issue, I thought that even with the cam off the plugs would still fire so it shouldn't be super rich. But that's why I figured I would ask. Thanks
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Meleemaker
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2013 7:52 pm
- Car: 2000 Toyota Celica
1993 Nissan D21 4WD
Re: HELP!! ka24e intake/cam swap now it woun't start
Step 1: Get a spark plug tester....crank it over and see if you are getting spark. You should be. If you arent, move on to look at the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor to make sure they are wired in correctly. DMM should read about 2.25-2.66 volts DC on each sensor. I can get you a exact spec tomorrow, but thats what im guessing it should be at. If that is correct, you have a wiring issue with your ECU. The throttle position sensor should be between .4 and as high as 1.25 at idle. And around ~4.5 at WOT. Again I can get specs tomorrow that are better. These are just my guesses.
You are apparently getting fuel, and if you are getting spark, your timing is probably off. Your TPS is a very imporant sensor. Not quite sure what the hard closed conector is.
Your camshaft is a very imporant device. This device opens and closes the valves. When it is removed or replaced, it is very imporant that it is put back in correctly. Otherwise you will be firing on the wrong cylinder or at the wrong time and you will not get combustion, but you will be getting lots of fuel in the cylinder.
I would start by rotating the engine over by hand and making sure cylinder 1 is at TDC and that the camshaft is also showing that the 3 valves on cylinder 1 are CLOSED. There should be a painted mark and a spot to check TDC on the crankshaft.
And once you DO get it running, I would suggest new plugs and replacing the oil. All that fuel that is being dumped into the cylinders is leaking down into the oil and fouling it as well. When we have cars that come into the shop that arent starting and the battery is dead at -20 degrees, we swap plugs and change the oil every time.
You are apparently getting fuel, and if you are getting spark, your timing is probably off. Your TPS is a very imporant sensor. Not quite sure what the hard closed conector is.
Your camshaft is a very imporant device. This device opens and closes the valves. When it is removed or replaced, it is very imporant that it is put back in correctly. Otherwise you will be firing on the wrong cylinder or at the wrong time and you will not get combustion, but you will be getting lots of fuel in the cylinder.
I would start by rotating the engine over by hand and making sure cylinder 1 is at TDC and that the camshaft is also showing that the 3 valves on cylinder 1 are CLOSED. There should be a painted mark and a spot to check TDC on the crankshaft.
And once you DO get it running, I would suggest new plugs and replacing the oil. All that fuel that is being dumped into the cylinders is leaking down into the oil and fouling it as well. When we have cars that come into the shop that arent starting and the battery is dead at -20 degrees, we swap plugs and change the oil every time.