HELP!! KA24DE electrical

[finallya240]

Alright, so i rebuilt a KA, twice now, put it in the car and attempted to start her. The engine moved slightly but only about 45 degrees or less. Pretty sure thats due to an extremely old starter and battery. I've got a windshield fluid light just to the right of the wheel and the battery and oil light on in even with the key outta the ignition. If i disconnect the battery that i had and reconnect it, the lights won't be on again till i attempt to start car again but when the key's out lights in car are still on. I'm thinking it could be the ignition lock which is about $150 from auto parts store. PLZ give me some NICO advice on this matter, i'm way to anxious to get this car on the road for the first time.

[vancouverbc]

Alright, so i rebuilt a KA, twice now, put it in the car and attempted to start her. The engine moved slightly but only about 45 degrees or less. Pretty sure thats due to an extremely old starter and battery. I've got a windshield fluid light just to the right of the wheel and the battery and oil light on in even with the key outta the ignition. If i disconnect the battery that i had and reconnect it, the lights won't be on again till i attempt to start car again but when the key's out lights in car are still on. I'm thinking it could be the ignition lock which is about $150 from auto parts store. PLZ give me some NICO advice on this matter, i'm way to anxious to get this car on the road for the first time.

you mean the ignition switch is around 50 bucks max. not sure if that is your problem. did you change from auto to standard?

[vancouverbc]

zerothread?id=332827

ignition switch

[finallya240]

The car's is manual from factory. Apparently the price i was given was for the ignition switch/lock assembly at O'rielly's. I'm really having trouble diagnosing the source of the prob, this is just my first guess. I don't hear the fuel pump kick on when the key's in the first position. The car was about to start but i think the starter, which has about 210k miles on it, wasn't strong enough to turn the newly rebuilt engine. I really appreciate all feedback and any ideas will be humored.

[vancouverbc]

The car's is manual from factory. Apparently the price i was given was for the ignition switch/lock assembly at O'rielly's. I'm really having trouble diagnosing the source of the prob, this is just my first guess. I don't hear the fuel pump kick on when the key's in the first position. The car was about to start but i think the starter, which has about 210k miles on it, wasn't strong enough to turn the newly rebuilt engine. I really appreciate all feedback and any ideas will be humored.

my first guess would be the ignition switch if it a stock 5 speed. as you can see the ignition switch has a plug about a foot from where it attaches to lock assembly. I would disconnect it when key is out and you still have power to accessories to confirm it is the switch.

[finallya240]

I'll give that a try and get back to you. The car had about 210,ooo miles on it before i rebuilt with the original motor having thrown a rod, wondering if the starter may be too weak to turn over a newly rebuilt engine? Or if this is a problem that may be tied into some other part defect.

[vancouverbc]

Modified by vancouverbc at 1:02 PM 1/12/2009

[finallya240]

So you say that if i still have power to warning lights such as low bat or low fuel etc. that it IS the ignition switch??

[finallya240]

Alrighty, figured out how to post pics so that i may be able to get where this car's at currently. I replaced my ignition switch and tracked a clicking noise to this relay box, though i'm not completely sure which is doing it or if it's normal. Also, these lights stay on after i take the key outta the ignition:

[finallya240]

Was trying to link the combination meter from page 40 from fsm at 240edge.com. I have 2-3 lights on when i try and start the car and dim as i actually attempt to start it but stay on even after the key is out. It's usually the oil, battery and occasionally the fuel light. I've also got this weird light that has the icon like that of the windshield cleaner spray system. Have no clue why any of this stays on after key is out.

[vancouverbc]

Was trying to link the combination meter from page 40 from fsm at 240edge.com. I have 2-3 lights on when i try and start the car and dim as i actually attempt to start it but stay on even after the key is out. It's usually the oil, battery and occasionally the fuel light. I've also got this weird light that has the icon like that of the windshield cleaner spray system. Have no clue why any of this stays on after key is out.

What happens if you only turn key to "on" position and then remove key? do the lights stay on?

I'd find out why your car is not turning over. bad grounds. weak battery etc

jump start the car with good battery. is the mating service between starter and engine block reasonably clean. there is something about checking grounds in the tutorials.

[finallya240]

New battery, old starter. The lights stay on if i take the key outta the ignition after trying to start the car. If i disconnect the battery terminal and then reconnect it the lights are off again until i attempt to start car again.

[vancouverbc]

New battery, old starter. The lights stay on if i take the key outta the ignition after trying to start the car. If i disconnect the battery terminal and then reconnect it the lights are off again until i attempt to start car again.

what if you only turn the key to the on position(not start) and shut it off? what happens when you unplug the ignition switch when lights are on?

[finallya240]

Figured out why the lights would stay on. Apparently my e-brake has some sort of safety switch which won't allow the starter any power without it being up. Now the starter's clicking repetitively and not turning over the car, hoping it's just the high compression of the new engine. Family believe the battery doesn't have enough juice for the starter.

[vancouverbc]

Figured out why the lights would stay on. Apparently my e-brake has some sort of safety switch which won't allow the starter any power without it being up. Now the starter's clicking repetitively and not turning over the car, hoping it's just the high compression of the new engine. Family believe the battery doesn't have enough juice for the starter.

the e-brake doesnt have a safety switch. your clutch has to be depressed though. weak battery is most common cause of no start.

[finallya240]

Car started with a lil carb cleaner injected into intake. Car only ran for a few minutes than ran outta the carb cleaner so i suspect it's the fuel pump.