help interpreting alignment specs

[captainluigi]

An intro: all new or under 10k fr. susp.

tokicos & ALL new rubber, lwr BJ,s & lwr cont. arm bushys(nismo), sway bar mnt. bushys & end links. upper links are 10k old., tension rod bushys new & of course tie rod ends. New mich. pilot exals.

Align. specs follows;

CAMBER LFT. -0.1 RT. -1.7 CASTER 5.6 5.5

TOE 0.06 0.06

SAI 12.3 13.4

INCLUDE ANGLE 12.2 13.4

TRN. ANG .DIFF. NO DATA

CROSS CAMBER 1.6

CROSS CASTER 0.1

TOTAL TOE 0.12 Of COURSE she drives better than before but something is just not right. Drives straight, no pull, vaugness in steering is gone, changes lanes in less than a moment, brakes true. but some help w/ these #s might help in my direction. maybe i'm expecting sumpin that just ain't there.

how does one go about the task of shimming the upper link mount? is it just as easy as placing various washers between frame & brkt.? is it trial & error as to the thickness? if i'm an 1/8'' out will a 1/8'' of shim cure? i thought a $20.00 bill in the techs hand would yield better results than these.

thnx for the space to rant.

ANY comments?

Brian, i know you will chime in here. Great. i read you have big time knowledge on this subject. Please can you offer some positive meaningful tutoring?

[mxr662]

here is mine

Front LeftCamber -1.4Caster 5.8Toe .04SAI 13.1Included Angle 11.8

Front RightCamber -0.9Caster 5.6Toe .03SAI 12.4Included Angle 11.5

FrontCross Camber -0.4Cross Caster 0.1Cross SAI 0.7Total Toe 0.07

zerothread?id=294375

[qship96]

Camber can be corrected with shims as you pointed out.I wonder if third link & kingpin are worn and contributing to your current camber numbers?Certainly cheaper to make the adjustment with shimming upper link brackets as opposed to changing third link, unless you are experiencing other symptoms of worn third links.

[captainluigi]

Shims may be the answer. Who amongst us has done this procedure?

I will check king pin again as that is the only piece not replaced

[maxnix]

Read Q45tech's post on shimming the bracket out with ¼" washers. I wouldn't trust my memory.

You don't say if you have Jeff's front strut tower bar, nor if you do, if it is preloaded per AZHitman's ancient post.

Also missing is the thrust angle. Very important for handling and alignment that it is exactly 0°.

Did you replace the steering rack bushings and check your tie rod ends?

[96Qowner]

Camber can be corrected with shims as you pointed out. I wonder if third link & kingpin are worn and contributing to your current camber numbers?Certainly cheaper to make the adjustment with shimming upper link brackets as opposed to changing third link, unless you are experiencing other symptoms of worn third links.

Dennis frequently reminds people of this one. They're only $200/pr, and really should be done when you rehab the front suspension. They bend over time.

Here are a few threads where Q45tech talks about shimming the upper link mounts to correct camber:

zerothread?id=163690

zerothread?id=159061

zerothread?id=119588

zerothread?id=43438

zerothread?id=1433

[captainluigi]

WOW! That was some good stuff. So if my understanding is correct 1/8'' shim =0.5 degrees. Therefore Right side camber currently -1.7. So add two 1/8'' shims per mounting brigs to -0.7, the nominal.

So if Left side camber is -0.1 what do i do here? Add 1/8'' shim to get to - 0.6 which would be close enough for me.

i will buy a caster/camber gauge as it seems a likely Q tool.

Thanks to all contributors.

[maxnix]

Search is the most important tool in a NICOnaut's toolbox.

[GseaQ]

Hi Capt.,

So far so good. BUT... adding a shim to the left will only move the -0.1 into positive territory (unless there's already shims there, in which case they'd need to be removed).

BTW, were you sitting in the car during the alignment? More left side weight should bring more negative camber.

Cheers,Glenn