Speakers: Infinity Reference 605cs 6.5" ComponentsAmplifier: None at the momentStock front speakers: 4x6
Ok, I took my door panel off, and where the 4x6 speakers are, isa cavity where the stock speaker is mounted.
Now, in this cavity is like a small circuit board with wires andall that junk. Is this the stock amplifier/crossover ?
I looked behind the cavity and noticed 4 wires going to it(coming from the head unit perhaps). Now correct me if i'mwrong but are these 4 wires: Power, Ground, Left channel andRight channel??
It seems I have to remove that cavity mount in order to installthe 6.5" speakers on a custom mount. But what's with the littlecircuit board?
I'll try to get a pic later to show you what I mean.
Can someone hlep me out?
HELP: Installing components in front door
Hey man I pulled my door panel off today to install my 6.5s and I saw the same thing... I looked it up in the FSM and yeah its the stock amp.. I just cut the wires out and bypassed it: that's the green/yellow (postitive if I remember correctly) and green/white (neg) on the driver's side, and the brown/black wires on the passenger side. I kept the grounds straight and my components sound GREAT now...
Course.... they're still not mounted in the door yet. I tried mounting them like 3483 different ways and none of them worked, so tonight I'm making myself a custom mount for them outta 3/4" plywood. I just got sick of dealing with that stupid funky plastic mount thing. I'll letcha know how it goes.
Course.... they're still not mounted in the door yet. I tried mounting them like 3483 different ways and none of them worked, so tonight I'm making myself a custom mount for them outta 3/4" plywood. I just got sick of dealing with that stupid funky plastic mount thing. I'll letcha know how it goes.
Hey fiznat (the same on Shift240 I assume)..
Well, did you cut the 4 wires? Thus eliminating the entirestock mount (and circuitry)? I only opened the driver sideand saw the 4-wires which were all shades of green.
A dude in an audio shop told me to go with 3/4" MDF butI figure I try plexiglass if I can find it. I guess I would want whatever that's more stable and won'tvibrate making noise.
Also, you got a component set right? Where'd you mount yourtweeter? I'm thinking of drilling a hole near the top front of thedoor panel for the tweets.
Well, did you cut the 4 wires? Thus eliminating the entirestock mount (and circuitry)? I only opened the driver sideand saw the 4-wires which were all shades of green.
A dude in an audio shop told me to go with 3/4" MDF butI figure I try plexiglass if I can find it. I guess I would want whatever that's more stable and won'tvibrate making noise.
Also, you got a component set right? Where'd you mount yourtweeter? I'm thinking of drilling a hole near the top front of thedoor panel for the tweets.
Hey man, yeah I'm on shift240 under the same name...
Uhm yeah I cut the 4 wires... I cut the + and - wires for the speaker first to see if it would work without the amp and it did, so I just said screw it and cut the whole stock amp garbage away. As of now I've got only the 2 wires for the speaker actually attached to anything. The rest is all taped up and just hanging there.
I'm not saying this is the way it's SUPPOSED to be done, btw... I'm just saying this is how I did it and it works, so....
As far as making the mounting plate, I TRIED to use the stock plate by cutting off alot of the excess stuff that protrudes up, but it's just too much hassle. Tomorrow I'm going to the hardware store to find something nice to make it out of. In my last post I said I was using plywood, which I might still use... it just feels kinda mickey mouse, know what I mean? I might still use it though if I cant find anything better for cheap.
The tweets are a whole different story. I REALLY didnt want to cut a hole in the door panel in case I ever wanted to change the speakers, but it seems like I'm gonna have to if it's gonna look nice. I figure right where you said is a decent place, I just need to extend the wires that CDT gave me, they're not long enough right now. I'll be working on it tomorrow too so I'll post whatever happens with it.
Hey by the way, where did you mount the crossovers that came with the component system? Did you put them back with the amp or up with the speakers? I dont have an amp yet so I just mounted them inside the door kinda for now... I was just wondering how people do it once they have everything else together...
Uhm yeah I cut the 4 wires... I cut the + and - wires for the speaker first to see if it would work without the amp and it did, so I just said screw it and cut the whole stock amp garbage away. As of now I've got only the 2 wires for the speaker actually attached to anything. The rest is all taped up and just hanging there.
I'm not saying this is the way it's SUPPOSED to be done, btw... I'm just saying this is how I did it and it works, so....
As far as making the mounting plate, I TRIED to use the stock plate by cutting off alot of the excess stuff that protrudes up, but it's just too much hassle. Tomorrow I'm going to the hardware store to find something nice to make it out of. In my last post I said I was using plywood, which I might still use... it just feels kinda mickey mouse, know what I mean? I might still use it though if I cant find anything better for cheap.
The tweets are a whole different story. I REALLY didnt want to cut a hole in the door panel in case I ever wanted to change the speakers, but it seems like I'm gonna have to if it's gonna look nice. I figure right where you said is a decent place, I just need to extend the wires that CDT gave me, they're not long enough right now. I'll be working on it tomorrow too so I'll post whatever happens with it.
Hey by the way, where did you mount the crossovers that came with the component system? Did you put them back with the amp or up with the speakers? I dont have an amp yet so I just mounted them inside the door kinda for now... I was just wondering how people do it once they have everything else together...
Hey cool, so I do ned to cut the wires. Just so I don't have tolook it up, can you tel me the colour codes for the 4 wires on thedriver side and on the passenger side? Like what each wire is for.
I haven't installed anything yet. I just took the panel apartto see how I'm gonna approach this. The crossover i'm notsure wher to install. If there's room in the cavity where thespeaker goes, I'll try putting it there. Guess I'll have to watchto see how much room I have left after lowering window.
And yea, my tweet's wires aren't long either Like 4" or so.I'm gonna try mounting the tweets today and some of the wiringbut will take time to cut the plastic/wood for my speaker mount.
I'll try to get some pics of my progress.
I haven't installed anything yet. I just took the panel apartto see how I'm gonna approach this. The crossover i'm notsure wher to install. If there's room in the cavity where thespeaker goes, I'll try putting it there. Guess I'll have to watchto see how much room I have left after lowering window.
And yea, my tweet's wires aren't long either Like 4" or so.I'm gonna try mounting the tweets today and some of the wiringbut will take time to cut the plastic/wood for my speaker mount.
I'll try to get some pics of my progress.
Ok, I just looked through the FSM again and just noticed theHOW TO READ WIRING DIAGRAM (7th page).
In case anyone's curious, here's the color codes:
B = BlackW = WhiteR = RedG = GreenL = BlueY = YellowLG = Light GreenBR = BrownOR = OrangeP = PinkPU = PurpleGY = GraySB = Sky Blue
Striped colols are shown with base color followed by stripe.Example: L/W = Blue with White stripes
In case anyone's curious, here's the color codes:
B = BlackW = WhiteR = RedG = GreenL = BlueY = YellowLG = Light GreenBR = BrownOR = OrangeP = PinkPU = PurpleGY = GraySB = Sky Blue
Striped colols are shown with base color followed by stripe.Example: L/W = Blue with White stripes
Heh, I'm talkin to myself here. Anywho I've taken a fewpics of my door panel removal. So others know what to expect.
I may get around to writing a How-to on makin a speaker mountand stuff:
Here's the page:
http://240sx.cubicdesign.com/picpage7.php
I may get around to writing a How-to on makin a speaker mountand stuff:
Here's the page:
http://240sx.cubicdesign.com/picpage7.php
yeah sorry man I've been up in Boston for the day starting to move in my stuff for school.
Last night I made a mount out of plywood and sanded it out real well.. it looks pretty nice. I'll get pics up later.
Yeah haha those color codes messed me up for a while... took me forever to figure out L was blue (never found the color code page)... I was thinking wtf maybe it's lime?! haha oh well glad you got yours all set man!
Last night I made a mount out of plywood and sanded it out real well.. it looks pretty nice. I'll get pics up later.
Yeah haha those color codes messed me up for a while... took me forever to figure out L was blue (never found the color code page)... I was thinking wtf maybe it's lime?! haha oh well glad you got yours all set man!
Hey man I just finished mine tonight, and GOD DAMN they sound awesome.
You said you're trying to use 1/2" plywood though? That's probably not thick enough. I used 3/4" and the magnets *JUST* clear the windows when they're down. We probably dont have the same speakers though so just be aware before you screw everything down...
Yeah I came up with that same problem as well, but instead of buying new screws, I just took a bigger drill bit and drilled that on top of the smaller hole, so that the head of the stock bolt would counter-sink in... When I did that I was able to use every stock peice of hardware, I didnt have to buy anything except the wood for this install.
Uhmm I've got lots of pics, I'll see what I can do about getting them up tonight.
You said you're trying to use 1/2" plywood though? That's probably not thick enough. I used 3/4" and the magnets *JUST* clear the windows when they're down. We probably dont have the same speakers though so just be aware before you screw everything down...
Gonad wrote:...but I'm gonna need longer screws cuz the stock mount screws are too short.
Yeah I came up with that same problem as well, but instead of buying new screws, I just took a bigger drill bit and drilled that on top of the smaller hole, so that the head of the stock bolt would counter-sink in... When I did that I was able to use every stock peice of hardware, I didnt have to buy anything except the wood for this install.
Uhmm I've got lots of pics, I'll see what I can do about getting them up tonight.
Okay just quickly heres some pics I took that'll show ya what I did:
Installing the speaker with the wood peice we made. That's 3/4" plywood that we traced out from the stock plastic mount, routered the edges (for prettyness!), and counter-sunk in the mounting screws.
You can sorta see it, but there are 2 extra screws above the speaker that arent stock, those are mounting the crossover thats inside the door panel right there.
Here's a picture of the tweet installed.. looks nice huh? Just used the hole-saw attachment for my drill and cut out a slightly smaller hole than the speaker... it popped right in and it looks almost stock now imo.
Hope these help! Good luck with your install man!
Installing the speaker with the wood peice we made. That's 3/4" plywood that we traced out from the stock plastic mount, routered the edges (for prettyness!), and counter-sunk in the mounting screws.
You can sorta see it, but there are 2 extra screws above the speaker that arent stock, those are mounting the crossover thats inside the door panel right there.
Here's a picture of the tweet installed.. looks nice huh? Just used the hole-saw attachment for my drill and cut out a slightly smaller hole than the speaker... it popped right in and it looks almost stock now imo.
Hope these help! Good luck with your install man!
Yea, when I made the piece out of 1/2" plywood, I figuredI could get longer screws from Home Depot. Guess what?They didn't have a single screw with the same thread pitchthat was long enough. I thought of counter sinking the screwsbut I didn't have drill bits big enough for this. 
So I had to use another option. I got some 3/8" plywood(or something like that) from the garage that I had lying around.
I took some pics of this material so you can see. It seems fairlysturdy so I can't guarantee how it will be.
With the 3/8", it mounts and clears the window when down.
So far only the driver side speaker has been done; I haven'teven touched the tweeter or passenger door. I hope to haveall this done sometimes Sunday.
Check here for updated pics:http://240sx.cubicdesign.com/picpage7.php
You think this wood will be sturdy enough? I figure if this materialfails for any reason, I'm gonna get acrylic plexiglass.
So I had to use another option. I got some 3/8" plywood(or something like that) from the garage that I had lying around.
I took some pics of this material so you can see. It seems fairlysturdy so I can't guarantee how it will be.
With the 3/8", it mounts and clears the window when down.
So far only the driver side speaker has been done; I haven'teven touched the tweeter or passenger door. I hope to haveall this done sometimes Sunday.
Check here for updated pics:http://240sx.cubicdesign.com/picpage7.php
You think this wood will be sturdy enough? I figure if this materialfails for any reason, I'm gonna get acrylic plexiglass.
Hmmm it that material you're using (looks like some kinda mounting board or something like that? like for a tool rack?) seems like it's kinda flimsy, but then again it's really not under that much stress. It's probably not gonna break, I'd say the only thing you have to worry about is it vibrating when the speakers are pumping. Why not wire up the driver's side speaker and see how it does when the speaker is on?
I'm really suprised the magnet on your speaker doesnt touch the window, either... it must be an especially shallow model or something because mine, even with the 3/4" wood BARELY clears.
Hmm as far as countersinking the screws, the countersink hole doesnt have to be that big at all if you take off the little washer thats on the stock mounting bolts. I just snipped em off with a pair of dykes and it fit nice and snug with a bigger sized drill bit. If you dont wanna do that, I say pick up a nice set of paddle bits... they're always useful anyways.
Let me know how it goes man!
I'm really suprised the magnet on your speaker doesnt touch the window, either... it must be an especially shallow model or something because mine, even with the 3/4" wood BARELY clears.
Hmm as far as countersinking the screws, the countersink hole doesnt have to be that big at all if you take off the little washer thats on the stock mounting bolts. I just snipped em off with a pair of dykes and it fit nice and snug with a bigger sized drill bit. If you dont wanna do that, I say pick up a nice set of paddle bits... they're always useful anyways.
Let me know how it goes man!
Heh, I was at work today and I noticed a 2ft x 1ft sheet of 3/8"plexiglass. Seems real sturdy. So I snagged it and brought ithome. I can easily cut two mounts of it. 
So I'm gonna make some mounts outta this plexiglass now.
I haven't tested the speakers yet; I'm gonna get al the wiringand evertyhign first befroe I do anything.
I should have it all done by end of today.
So I'm gonna make some mounts outta this plexiglass now.
I haven't tested the speakers yet; I'm gonna get al the wiringand evertyhign first befroe I do anything.
I should have it all done by end of today.