Help ... Installed LEDs, need power source

[Gramps_Rogue]

I had a local shop install front mounted LED strips on my 2012 Rogue SL AWD. My instructions were to power these in a manner whereby they are always on once the car is running. They chose to wire these to the turn signal circuit (I believe), so now:
a) the right side LED strip flashes in time with the factory front blinker
b) the right turn signal flashes very rapidly (left signal works normally)
c) when I turn on the parking lights, the right LED strip dims by 90%
(approximately, definitely very dim)
- left side LED strip remains on
d) with headlights on, the right side LED strip is off, left side OK

Can anyone advise an alternate, available power source, from under the hood, that can power these LEDs (again, only when the car is running), and will not impact existing electronics sharing that circuit? Any guidance would be immensely appreciated.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

So you DON'T want them to be involved with the turn signals whatsoever, right?

I've always just checked the fuses in the panel with a meter (or test light) with the key ON or in ACC mode. Its always worked for me.
With the LEDs, I'm sure you aren't drawing very many amps.

If you'd like a list of fuses and what they do (wiring diagrams), you can check out the factory service manual:
www.nicoclub.com/fsm

[Gramps_Rogue]

Thanks for your reply PapaSmurf. You are correct, I don't want the LED strips involved with the turn signals. These are intended to be accent lighting.

I went to the link you provided and have no idea which of those many files listed may be the 'wiring diagram'. Can't figure out the acronyms.

[ImStricken06]

1. go back to the shop, and demand they fix it. its obviously not installed correctly, and it could be causing issues within your electrical system.
2. they simply piggy-backed the wires off of the turn signals, which is dangerous. its drawing current from a circuit only designed to handle so much (this is why relay fuses are used, in a professional setting).
3. i am afraid to say, but there is little to nothing you can do on your own. if you didnt know how to install these on your own, then you certainly wouldn't know where to begin, with someone elses install.

the proper install should look like this:

• install LED lights where you want
  Ground the negative wire of the LED lights
  4 pin relay installed in the engine bay.
  PIN86 trigger wire wired through the firewall, into the relay box (only draws half an amp, to trigger relay)
  PIN30 should be wired with an 10amp fuse to the battery
  PIN87 should go to the LED lights positive cable
  PIN85 should be grounded to anything metal

thats how i install all of my off-road LED light bars. (except i send the (pin86)trigger wire to the highbeam, versus the fuse box. this way i activate/control the led light bars by turning on the highbeams)
if you do decide to try this on your own, here is the relay you will need: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HI ... YGOLJUGBJ3

[Gramps_Rogue]

WOW. Thanks 5.56 !!

You are 100% correct ... I have absolutely no knowledge regards wiring (nor hands-on vehicle maintenance).

I called the shop to get their thoughts, and now they want the car back in so they can 'piggy-back' the parking light wires (which I vetoed initially, as I wanted an always-on solution and not one dependent on running the parking lights and likewise the tail lights just to illuminate the LEDs). I will certainly inquire when I take the car back in on Friday, to challenge the additional load on the parking light circuit. As a novice, I've always thought a short LED string ( 12" string, mounted to each front headlight ) would draw very little power. Your advise suggests the additional draw on the parking light wiring (piggy-backing) could be risky.

When you say "PIN86 trigger wire wired through the firewall, into the relay box", is there an available opening? The shop I am using didn't seem to have a way through the firewall, as I was prepared to have a rocker switch installed versus relying on turning on the parking lights.

[ImStricken06]

As a novice, I've always thought a short LED string ( 12" string, mounted to each front headlight ) would draw very little power. Your advise suggests the additional draw on the parking light wiring (piggy-backing) could be risky.

it really depends on the draw of the lights, and the cuircut they use in the relay box. to be honest, the moronic install that they did, tells me they dont know what they are doing. personally i would be scared to use them again. i'd go back and get my money back. these morons could end up destroying your car, and there would be no way your warranty would cover it.

When you say "PIN86 trigger wire wired through the firewall, into the relay box", is there an available opening? The shop I am using didn't seem to have a way through the firewall, as I was prepared to have a rocker switch installed versus relying on turning on the parking lights.

there is always a spot. if not, most shops will find a blank (safe) spot on the firewall, and drill a hole with a step bit. this usually happens when they install really thick 0guage wire for sub-woofer installs. these guys are clowns.

print this write-up i did, for them: getting-wire-through-firewall-t587368.html

and if you wanted to use your parking lights as a trigger source for these LED lights, just simply jump the relay fuses already under the hood, with an additional relay fuse. just use the PIN86 on the new relay to connect to PIN30 on the relay for the parking lights.