Help/Info installing suspension 2012 M37

[wideopn11]

I just got my set of Eibach springs to install on my 2012 M37. Does anyone have any pictures or helpful tips for getting to the rear suspension. I've heard that the whole rear seat and trunk lining needs to come out. I'm hoping it could be 1 or the other. I think the front should be pretty straight forward since the access to bolts is much easier. Any tips or hints to make this go smoothly would be appreciated.

[cruzad3r]

I dont think there are that many M37 here so you might be in your own on this. Is there a service manual available? You can be maverick and put a diy together if you have time in between.

[wideopn11]

Yeah I've noticed most people here have M35. I plan to document my install, I'm just hoping to not be completely blind going in. I'm not so much concerned with the suspension part, it's the getting to it part that will likely be the pia. The last 2 cars I did (years ago) had nice exposed shock towers, easy access to unbolt.

Does anyone have a repair manual they would like to share? Everywhere I look online wants you to pay to download one. Whatever happened to sharing? Must have gone out with Napster and Limewire lol.

[Larz]

Here is a CD for offer on Ebay. I got mine there and it's brilliant. Loads of info, drawings, tips, etc.
I's not free, but its a permanent tool to keep, and after what you paid for your suspension, what's another $33 ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-2011-2012- ... 299wt_1131

[svard75]

Yeah I've noticed most people here have M35. I plan to document my install, I'm just hoping to not be completely blind going in. I'm not so much concerned with the suspension part, it's the getting to it part that will likely be the pia. The last 2 cars I did (years ago) had nice exposed shock towers, easy access to unbolt.

Does anyone have a repair manual they would like to share? Everywhere I look online wants you to pay to download one. Whatever happened to sharing? Must have gone out with Napster and Limewire lol.

I would think the rears are bolted from the bottom not top. Take a flashlight, remove the rear wheel and follow the shock up to the top.

EDIT: YIKES it is from the top. . I would approach it like this. The trunk lining is easiest to remove so begin there if you cannot get at the top from there then the rear seats Bottom first then top. If that doesn't reveal the rear shock towers then the rear deck (Geeze I hope not!).

Good luck with your install, and make sure you work safely with those OEM springs.

[svard75]

Read a forum thread on a guy "da mayor" that has an M and he says you need to take the rear seats out to get to the top of the rear shock mounts.

[Larz]

I absolutely love my M, and this is the only fault I find with this car. It is amazing and seemingly not necessary to make simple chores into huge projects. I remember when I upgraded to Morimoto low-beams. When I was told I would need to remove the wheels, the inner fender pieces, and some other assorted mess I was sure he was having a laugh. Sure enough, it was true. I'm sure Infiniti isn't the only car that makes simple things so baffling and I can't work out why they don't design around this stuff? The saving grace is that even with all this bother to do simple chores, driving the M makes it worth the trouble. Can't say that about most cars.

[wideopn11]

I went ahead and downloaded the repair manual from http://infinitihelp.com/index.php. It was only $12 and all in PDF form. I'll share it with anybody that needs it. It's 2012 Repair Manual. Here is the view I was looking for.

[wideopn11]

Alright I need some advice. I started working on the install this weekend but hit a snag. The backseat was actually pretty easy to remove, took about 10 minutes.




I jacked up the car, put in a jack stand and removed the tire. Following the Repair Manual I supported the axle housing, removed the bolt holding the shock assembly and this is where I got stuck.


I lowered the jack holding the axle housing but could not get the shock assembly free. The axle housing doesn't seem to lower enough to take all the tension off the shock. Any thoughts. This is starting to really frustrate me. The instructions seem pretty clear. Remove shock absorber from axle housing, Remove mounting insulator nuts, and then remove shock absorber assembly. What am I missing?

[svard75]

Are both rear wheels off the ground at the same time? Remember the rear anti-sway bar could be holding the axle up.

[wideopn11]

That's a very good point. I was thinking about whether having both wheels off the ground would make a difference. I only had one side lifted. I'll have to put both sides on jack stands when I have some free time. Thanks for the tip!

[wideopn11]

Alright I have the whole rear end on jack stands...still doesn't seem to drop low enough to get the tension off the shock to remove it. I'm not sure why this is such a pia.

[svard75]

When the upper control arm is at its lowest point can you not pull the shock forward? Try using a rubber mallet to bang it out of place. I can't imaging it's that hard.

[svard75]

Did you remove all 3 upper nuts?

[svard75]

You can also try to leave the other wheel on for the added weight to have the anti sway bar pull the side your working on down. Maybe have someone push down on the other side while you remove the shock on your side.

[wideopn11]

I don't know what it is that's making this so hard. I don't know if banging out the shock with a mallet is the best approach. It's still pushing down on the axle housing and there are 4 little dimples on the inside of the base of the shock that kind of lock the bushing in place.

I don't know how far down the shock will stretch even if I did pry or knock it loose. I might not be able to get it back in. There has to be a logical answer since the shop manual doesn't mention removing anything else.

[svard75]

Do you have spring compressors? I hope so. Put the spring compressors on the spring and compress them as much as possible then lift the strut and remove. This way the spring is ready for removal.

If the bottom is locked onto the bushing then you'll need to temporarily stretch just enough to slide it off or once the springs are compressed just remove the entire upper control arm. That's some weird s*** right there. Why the hell would they stamp the bottom mount to the bushing? I would using garden sheers with a long handle, extend them as far as they'll go pull it apart to slide it off. You'll need someone to help you put it back on the same way.

[svard75]

I don't know what it is that's making this so hard. I don't know if banging out the shock with a mallet is the best approach. It's still pushing down on the axle housing and there are 4 little dimples on the inside of the base of the shock that kind of lock the bushing in place.

I don't know how far down the shock will stretch even if I did pry or knock it loose. I might not be able to get it back in. There has to be a logical answer since the shop manual doesn't mention removing anything else.

That photo helped. Honestly I would just use a long fat screw driver and pry the bottom outward. Remember the stock spring will be longer than the new lowering spring so it's likely not going to have as much length as this one making it easier to re-install. If you still have issues use the spring compressors and leave them on the unit while installing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oG7cBMjjq8U

[wideopn11]

Thanks. I was kind of trying that very lightly. Obviously I didn't try hard enough but I don't want to break anything so err on the side of caution. The guy over at Infinitihelp suggested the same thing, to use a flat screwdriver to help wedge it out. I'm just surprised at what a pain this is. I was expecting to have more trouble getting the back seat out than actually getting the shocks out. Now I'm getting worried about the front.

[svard75]

The most difficult part of the front for me was the two bolts that hold the small retaining bracket out. The reason was because I couldn't easily get a socket and extension in there. What helped was to turn the steering just enough so the extension could fit through a small space between the steering knuckle. Just be patient and stand back to see the bigger picture if you get stuck. I'm sure you'll get it.

[wideopn11]

Well I'm making some progress. I was able to remove both shocks from the rear end, swap out the springs and re-install the left side. The right side is being a b!@ch to get back in. I ended up disconnecting the sway bar link to which helped with the left side but holy fracking h3ll the right side is giving me a fight. Thank you Infiniti for a designing a shock that is longer than the lowest drop point of the axle housing. I took lots of pics so once this is all done I should have a good write up.
SPOILER ALERT: Make sure you have a 17mm double offset wrench so you don't have to borrow your wife's car for an emergency run to Sears in order to get to the bolt on the top of the shock.

[svard75]

Well I'm making some progress. I was able to remove both shocks from the rear end, swap out the springs and re-install the left side. The right side is being a b!@ch to get back in. I ended up disconnecting the sway bar link to which helped with the left side but holy fracking h3ll the right side is giving me a fight. Thank you Infiniti for a designing a shock that is longer than the lowest drop point of the axle housing. I took lots of pics so once this is all done I should have a good write up.
SPOILER ALERT: Make sure you have a 17mm double offset wrench so you don't have to borrow your wife's car for an emergency run to Sears in order to get to the bolt on the top of the shock.

You should have just bought an electric impact drill. You don't need to worry about using double wrenches like you are you just put the impact socket the size of the nut and spin away. It comes off quite nicely. If you're concerned with the shock shaft spinning in the shock then use one of those belt wrenches to hold it while spinning.

[wideopn11]

I was trying to keep the piston rod from turning while removing the lock nut. They were stuck together pretty well. The lock nut would turn but not come loose without holding the piston rod stable. It was pretty smooth once I had the double offset wrench.

[ddiimmaa]

Well looks like you are way ahead.. I ended up removing the sway links when I was doing mine. Sorry for the delay, I have been out of country on business. It was a b****, I had to get the fronts off with a crowbar not pleasant at all. Im back so let me know if you still need assistance.

[wideopn11]

Well looks like you are way ahead.. I ended up removing the sway links when I was doing mine. Sorry for the delay, I have been out of country on business. It was a b****, I had to get the fronts off with a crowbar not pleasant at all. Im back so let me know if you still need assistance.

Thanks, yeah I got the rear completed...finally. I'm planning to work on the front this weekend. I need a break right to step away from the frustration for a little bit.

So tell me about the front and the crowbar, that doesn't sound good. What problems did you have?

[wideopn11]

Time to start the front. I'm going in.

[wideopn11]

I think I need an impact driver. Those nuts and bolts on the front are on tight and not as much room to work with all the brakes lines, wheel sensor cables and stuff in the way. Super frustrating...

[svard75]

I agree. I used an electric impact drill with a 1/2" drive, but then you'll need impact sockets too or risk breaking the standard sockets. Try and get a universal join impact extension as well for those tight spots, or just get a 24" breaker bar.