Help identify a 1991 240sx part that is leaking?

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
RickBlaine
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:08 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx SE
Location: Chicago, IL

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Can you please identify this part by name or part number for a 1991 240sx? The bushing is leaking oil/grease. Noticed it when I did a brake job. The other end of this rod connects to the front left wheel assembly. Do you know if I can just get a new bushing pressed in, or if I have to order the whole part? Thank you!

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daemonyk
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:26 pm
Car: '93 240SX

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That's the tension arm bushing. It is not a greased bushing, and is solid rubber, and therefore can't leak. Any (wet) on it is from elsewhere. The bushing is likely fine unless it's torn in places. Doesn't look like it from the pix, so I'd say youre fine :dblthumb:

RickBlaine
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:08 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx SE
Location: Chicago, IL

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@daemonyk: Thank you! I had removed all four calipers to paint them as I added new rotors and pads, and that brake hose was still dripping when I kind of knocked it out of the way. It seems some of that brake fluid may have landed on that tension arm and tension arm bushing. I did a lot of work on her recently (transmission fluid filter and 2 drain and fills [yes, she is an Automatic and I still have one more drain and fill], power steering fluid replacement, coolant drain from radiator AND the engine block, etc) so it could have been anything.

There is a tiny crack in the rubber where the tension rod goes through, but she steers, turns, and stops fine now as of 30 minutes ago.

Again, thank you for the help and for the reassurance. :)

daemonyk
Posts: 218
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:26 pm
Car: '93 240SX

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No worries :bigthumb: Glad to provide some peace of mind. Yah, if you've been doing work on the car, all kinds of fluids run everywhere, and some of it likely got onto the rubber is all. I wouldn't even sweat that little crack, esp if this is a daily. Nothing wrong with driving an auto, either :dblthumb:

RickBlaine
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Joined: Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:08 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx SE
Location: Chicago, IL

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I am laughing about the auto vs. manual because when I was asking how to replace the automatic transmission fluid, the standard answer was "Just remove the entire automatic transmission and install a manual."....they were mostly joking. :gotme

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Razi
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I've been told that the OEM bushing has some sort of goo inside it, but I've never taken one apart so I can't be 100% sure.
You can remove it and replace it for cheap with a polyurethane one from Energy Suspension.
Z1 also has a solid replacement for the bushing too.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ts_id=5579

Adjustable tension rod arms are nicer, but they are a bit pricier.

RickBlaine
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:08 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx SE
Location: Chicago, IL

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Razi: Thank you...At your suggestion, I just searched here for "Energy Suspension" and read up on member Hitman's excellent "How To" guide for replacing suspension components- he had a few photos for replacing the tension rod bushing.

It seems the stock ones from Nissan are filled with a gel-like substance, and eventually, they will fail.

Yours is a very nice-looking ride, by the way.

daemonyk
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Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:26 pm
Car: '93 240SX

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other people wrote:the stock ones from Nissan are filled with goo, and eventually they will fail.
The More You Know ~*

I'm kinda surprised to learn that, since mine looked like freddy krueger jiggy'd with em and I saw no goo - of course as ragged as my suspension was, the goo was probably long gone or curdled by the time I got my hands on the car... Good to know :bigthumb:

Like Razi pointed, there's options, and several of them :dblthumb:

RickBlaine
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Joined: Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:08 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx SE
Location: Chicago, IL

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We all have to learn. I am just thankful that other's are willing to offer help.

After reading through a few threads- it seems many of the suspension components are "plug and play" with just socket wrenches and a breaker bar needed. Is that correct?

If I replace just the tension rods, do I need to get an alignment right after?

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Razi
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No problem!

It'd be a good idea to get an alignment, since the last alignment would've been done with those old and crusty bushings.

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Hijacker
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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Razi wrote:I've been told that the OEM bushing has some sort of goo inside it, but I've never taken one apart so I can't be 100% sure.
You can remove it and replace it for cheap with a polyurethane one from Energy Suspension.
Z1 also has a solid replacement for the bushing too.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_in ... ts_id=5579

Adjustable tension rod arms are nicer, but they are a bit pricier.
It's silicon filled, if I remember correctly.

As for the rubber press in bushings, I've done a set with Nismo bushings, and it is a PITA. Pretty sure we had to top 20 tons on the press to get them in with grease. I would recommend not going with polyurethane if you can avoid it. That arm has to twist on the bushing, which urethane will prevent. The hard rubber will still allow the twisting action while the suspension goes through its travel with no bind, and it has a high enough durometer to keep the suspension from deflecting too much when you go over bumps.
RickBlaine wrote:We all have to learn. I am just thankful that other's are willing to offer help.

After reading through a few threads- it seems many of the suspension components are "plug and play" with just socket wrenches and a breaker bar needed. Is that correct?

If I replace just the tension rods, do I need to get an alignment right after?
It's a simple deal to pull them out and replace them. Make sure to grab a mallet to convince the bolts through the bushings to come out. I usually grease those bolts when I reinstall them. Makes life a little easier.

As for the alignment, I always recommend an alignment after replacing suspension pieces, but the TC rod sets caster. So unless you get adjustable rods, your caster will be set. That said, your toe will be off a little since the wheel will most likely be relocated fore/aft in the wheel well.

RickBlaine
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:08 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx SE
Location: Chicago, IL

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Hijacker: Thank you...you have convinced me to replace the bushing material with something OTHER than polyurethane. Most aftermarket stuff I saw was either poly or solid. I'd probably want to get a kit of some sort and spend a day swapping all the suspension pieces out. I am not racing it- I decided to keep it as stock as I can.

Do you know of any company that sells re-manufactured pieces with the rubber bushings already in place?

94_240sx
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Just replace them with aftermarket ones with pillow ball joints. No more nose dive and it was one of the best modes I've done. I installed Nismo power brace while I was at it though.

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Hijacker
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Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
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RickBlaine wrote:Hijacker: Thank you...you have convinced me to replace the bushing material with something OTHER than polyurethane. Most aftermarket stuff I saw was either poly or solid. I'd probably want to get a kit of some sort and spend a day swapping all the suspension pieces out. I am not racing it- I decided to keep it as stock as I can.

Do you know of any company that sells re-manufactured pieces with the rubber bushings already in place?
It's hard to find them with rubber already pressed in. Megan makes a cheaper alternative to Nismo bushing, just do a google search to find some online stores that sell them. But if you don't have the capability to press them in yourself, find a shop that can and get a price quote on how much they'll charge. Some shops overcharge because they can. If you're trying to stay with rubber up front due to cost, the added shop cost can easily toss the price over a set of cheap tension rods with spherical bearings (pillow balls) on them. Case in point, I took my GT-R rear knuckles to have the bushings pressed out, and the bill was $120 for an hour and a half. I cased another shop to press in my spherical bearings, and they wanted just as much. I just found a cheap 12 ton hand press on craigslist for half the price and did it myself. Granted, my uprights are way more complex to set up than the TC rods, but it's best to get that kind of stuff in a row before you get the bill. My jaw nearly hit the floor when I saw the bill for having the bushings pressed out.

RickBlaine
Posts: 49
Joined: Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:08 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx SE
Location: Chicago, IL

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Thank you...can you please recommend a brand or a complete kit?


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