Help, I crossed an Oil line with a Coolant line... Coolant in my oil pan!!

[FriedEGs]

Car: 1995 S14Engine: S1 RB25DET

Okay, so i first turned over my car a week ago and it ran fine for 10-15 minutes max. (Ran great!!) After that worked out I had a driveshaft made and tossed it on. I went to start it again, and nothing! After lots of checking around I decided to open the oil cap and noticed a milky white mixture.. Obviously, the coolant mixed with teh oil, COMPLETELY!! I drained and it literally looks like a 1:1 ratio of mixture.

Okay, that tells me that there is a MAJOR leak or crossing of the lines. A bad headgasket is very unlikely to be able to mix that much water/oil together in only a 15 minute run. The engine ran great for those 15 minutes and it's very low mileage. ( i know it's possible, but before I pull the head I need to explore every possibility outside the engine first)

The first thing I checked was teh turbo lines. They seem to match up properly, considering the different sizes and being hardlines that don't move much, it was simple to see which line fit in which location. (looking at the turbo from teh drivers side, the front line comes from a location on the block just below the exhaust under the 6th cylinder. The top line comes from teh block near the 2nd cylinder halfway down the block. The back line on the turbo goes to a long line that wraps around behind the engine to the intake side. The bottom oil return goes straight into the block.)

Question: Is the top feed on the turbo the Oil inlet? (the two on teh sides being the coolant?)

From this point, I figured that somehow I crossed a coolant line with an oil line somewhere on the intake side. Obviously, there are several coolant and oil lines on this side of the motor. (oil cooler, heater core, etc..) The problem is I have NO reference to match up to what is right. I can't find a single RB FSM to dl anywhere on the popular forums. (seems the links are old or are not hosted from the same place any longer)

Question: Has anyone done something similar? Maybe 2 different lines near each other that are easy to cross.

And, can anyone email me a copy of an R33 FSM for a S1? OR link me?

Thanks!!

[Shocker]

All turbos work the same. The coolant or the oil lines go straight through in one side and out the opposite. The stock rb25 turbo has the sump for the oil at the base of the turbo since its gravity fed into the oil pan. The top of it is where the oil feed goes. Or directly across from the sump. The sump is held on by the two bolts, the rest are all banjo bolts. Hope that helps.

Not sure why its not starting..... I hope its not seized from all the coolant in the oil. Try to crank it over by hand and listen for sounds and noises. Did it overheat?

[FriedEGs]

Thanks for the info on the turbo lines. I knew those had to be right.

I've only run this motor for 15 minutes total time.. The temp gauge barely moved...

Again, the problem is a coolant line going straight into the oil system.. but, I have no reference to figure out which hoses are in the wrong location... it has to be 2 hoses underneath the intake manifold..

Does anyone have an engine FSM that you can upload for me? (R33 rb25det) All the links to FSM's that I keep finding in searches don't work.

[adrenalineMOTORWERKS]

I will e-mail you the r32 fsm as soon as i get home. Good luck!!

[Carl H]

there is no oil line near the intake manifold, its all on the side of the block.are you sure that there wasnt already water in the sump?

[gawdzilla]

usually the coolant is a LARGER size than the oil.

also, if you see a barbed fitting you can basically rule it out as being an oil line, unless it is the oil drain return from the turbo.

i would stop trying to crank it over until you find the problem. sounds like the motor is about to or already did hydro lock.

[Shocker]

there is no oil line near the intake manifold, its all on the side of the block.are you sure that there wasnt already water in the sump?

Yup the oil feed is right above the oil sump on the block. The coolant return is on the exhaust side of the block down a little ways. Then the coolant feed is on the intake side.

[Darius]

First, drain that $hit out of your motor and try to get as much out as possible. The coolant will rust the **** out of your cam lobes and every other ferrous metal part in the motor. Dump some more oil through it to help flush the bad oil out. I've run into it when I had my head gasket issues...

Can you hand turn the crank to make sure it's not seized up?

To me it sounds like your turbo lines are connected properly as you described them. And Carl's right, there are no oil lines underneath the intake manifold, they're all coolant. There are only 5 things I can contribute this to in order of lesser severity:

1) Cracked oil cooler allowing oil/coolant to mix 2) Cracked turbo housing allowing oil/coolant to mix 3) Blown head gasket4) Cracked head5) Cracked block

[240z4u]

Hey man, if your temp gauge barely moved your in trouble.

Idling for 15 minutes the car should have warmed up to operating temperature (or close, I know mine does).

That leads me to believe that you had no coolant in the system pretty much right off the bat.

Your coolant temp sensor won't work without coolant.

I hope the motor is okay!

Good luck dude, that really sucks.

As for what happened, you did not by chance hook a coolant line from near the bleeder screw area into the PCV valve did you? Thats the only spot I can imagine getting crossed up.

Evan

BTW, darius hit the nail on the head, get that motor cleaned out ASAP.

[FriedEGs]

Thanks for all the replies..

Here's how those 15 minutes break down.. a 2 minute initial start up.. followed by a few minutes turned off.. (to check for leaks, etc..) Then it ran again for about 6-8 minutes.. Honestly, it barely ran long enough to warm up.. and the coolant was only initially added.. In other words, I added enough just to see if the motor will start up for it's very first time after installing.. (Then afterwards I'd raise the front of the car up and bleed it properly)

The temp gauge DID start to move up off the cold mark.... but, i happen to turn the motor off at that point. (to get the driveshaft made and installed. I was only able to run the motor initially by keeping teh clutch depressed the entire time)

What does "Hydrolocked" mean exactly? Because my motor turns over, but doesn't fire.

[FriedEGs]

UPDATE: Alright, my current problem is.. NO SPARK! The fuel is fine, but now there is no spark and teh car won't fire.

Once this motor was installed i had no problems firing it up the first time. It started up for me 3 different times.. (This is when the water that was in teh oil lines mixed with the oil etc...) Now, after cleaning up the best i could in the oil passages, I am trying to fire it up again and now Nothing!!

I've checked all the fuses under the dash on the drivers side, and I've checked all the fuses under the hood. I can hear a relay switching over that is located right behind the ecu, so I'm assuming the ecu is working.

All the coil packs are plugged in, all the plugs for the igniter are plugged in.

Any suggestions?!

[Carl H]

check for wet plugs.

[FriedEGs]

plugs are dry.. other than fuel...

[91240sx rb20det]

Sounds like a cracked block or head. (coolant jackets leaking in with the oil) coolant will freeze up your motor quikly. do a leak down test.

[DriftX]

blow headgasket, washed out plugs, no sparky..

[blues14]

did you figure it out?? You rebuilding??

[HOMEMADE240SXTURBO]

change your plugs

[FriedEGs]

UPDATE:

The oil is back to normal... I have no idea where the water came from, other than through shipping, etc... who knows..

The spark issue I resolved as well.. The problem was a bad ignition relay.

Car runs nicely.. Thanks for everyone's help!