Help, fuel problem

[rovert]

I dont post much on here, mostly on houston240sx.com but I need help and there arnt many CA owners on there. My car isnt starting and its pissing me off. I have fuel to the rail, injector resistor box installed, I have spark in the cylinder but no fuel. It seems as if my injectors are clogged but it seems kinda weird that they would all go out at once. Literally, there is no fuel geting passed them. My CAS is in the same position as when I recieved it. When I pull the CAS and spin it the injectors tick but still no fuel. Im trying to buy some DSM 450cc injectors because I dont want to put stock one back in after all this trouble. Thanks guys.

[lilskyline240]

This happened on my Ka. in the relay box next to the battery there are a couple Fusable links in there. Chances are one of them is shot. Dont member which one it is but when it was shot on my car my injectors wouldnt fire at all. no matter what. Would crank and crank even with the fuel rail off and full fuel pressure and nothing would come out of the injectors. Check those links

[float_6969]

Also make sure the dropping resistor is working/hooked up properly.

[The_Chosen_One]

Make sure fuel lines are hooked up properly.

Where does your fuel line from the fuel filter go?

[rovert]

The supply fuel line is going to the front of the fuel rail, and the return is going to the stock FPR. When I turn the key fuel squirts everywhere from the little hose that connects the fuel rail to the nipple on the intake. Also, i tested theinjector resistor box and it seems to be in working condition. No fuel is getting past the injectors.

[lilskyline240]

FPR is shot if gas is coming out of the vac line!!!

[rovert]

So if gas is comming back out, the FPR is shot? Wouldnt fuel still be getting to the injectors?

[jdm s13]

So if gas is comming back out, the FPR is shot? Wouldnt fuel still be getting to the injectors?

It will help. Just upgrade the fuel pump first.

[lilskyline240]

If there is no fuel pressure no gas will come out of the injectors. trust me on that one. All the injectors do is open and close. if there is no pressure to push gas out nothing will come out. Get a new FPR before anything.

definitely dont upgrade the fuel pump yet. you obviously are gettin gas to the rail because you said gas is coming out the vac line at the FPR. That would just be a waste of money at this point

[rovert]

If there is no fuel pressure no gas will come out of the injectors. trust me on that one. All the injectors do is open and close. if there is no pressure to push gas out nothing will come out. Get a new FPR before anything.

definitely dont upgrade the fuel pump yet. you obviously are gettin gas to the rail because you said gas is coming out the vac line at the FPR. That would just be a waste of money at this point

I have been thinking that might be the problem, thanks for the advice.

[TD or Not TD]

i was reading through old "no fuel" posts and i am getting the same deal, i had the lines hooked right, then switched them and the same thing happend to me that happened to you. no fuel can go through the rail if you hook it up backwards right at the intake manifold. and what happened to me was the fuel was backed up so much it started a good fine mist spraying from the small peice of rubber fuel line that connects the line on the rail to the line that leads to the outside of the intake. swap them and you should be set to go..... unfortunately this isnt my problem.... i beleive its my resistor.

[rovert]

My lines are hooked up right, I have spark, and my timing is dead on. A lot of people with CA's seem to have this problem.

[rovert]

Anybody??

[float_6969]

If there is fuel coming out of the vac line on the FPR, then you need a FPR. Plain and simple. Replace it. Come back and let us know what the results are.

[rovert]

If there is fuel coming out of the vac line on the FPR, then you need a FPR. Plain and simple. Replace it. Come back and let us know what the results are.

No, sorry I wasnt more clear about this before. There isnt fuel comming out of the vc line on the FPR. I ment fuel was commming back out of the fuel line on the rail. I redid all my lines and it doesnt leak anymore but it still wont start. Im gonna go work on it some more.

[sideways danny]

with the engine not running but the ignition on, remove the CAS but keep it plugged in. Now turn the rotating part slowly and you should hear the injectors fire

[NissanTouge87]

i agree with the CAS test, but another thing, how did you hook up ur resister box?..the plug for it is on the body harness in JDM land, so you have to cut and splice it in, its pretty simple, i used the red wire, then ran it to the positives, the solid color wires on the injectors

if the FPR, CAS and redoing the resister box doesnt work, id try to get another ECU, maybe one of the circuits was fried before you got it

[float_6969]

I think he said he tried the CAS test and said they clicked.

Rovert, to be honest, If you have pressure in the fuel rail (try hooking up a fuel pressure gauge and verify pressure) and the injectors are opening (check for 12V+ at the Solid wire on the injector plug with the ignition switch in the run position) then fuel HAS to enter the motor unless the injector are plugged or somehow ruined. This is HIGHLY unlikely unless you hooked the lines up backwards and your fuel tank was REALLY dirty.

You've got to be missing something. It's very likely that the resistor pack is bad or wired incorrectly and so the injectors aren't getting power.

[rovert]

Ya, Im starting to think its just a wiring problem or the resistor box. I do have a DSM one spliced in right and yes, I have done the CAS test and they all "worked" fine. Im having trouble testing the power on the injectors and the resistor box. I really dont know how to use a multimeter but as it turns out I have a decent looking one. Also, I opened the ECU and inspected all the points and bla bla bla stuff. Thanks guys for all the help, I cant wait to figure this out!

[float_6969]

Set the mulitmeter to 20VDC (the little picture should look like a solid line over a dotted line). Stick the Red wire on the solid wire in the injector plug, and stick the black wire on the negative terminal of the battery. Turn the ignition switch to the "run" position. You should have 12VDC.

[rovert]

Set the mulitmeter to 20VDC (the little picture should look like a solid line over a dotted line). Stick the Red wire on the solid wire in the injector plug, and stick the black wire on the negative terminal of the battery. Turn the ignition switch to the "run" position. You should have 12VDC.

I just did this and have 12 volts on all of them, as well as the resistor box. My only questions are should the resistor box be putting out 12 volts as well as taking it in? And How can I test the common wire on the injecors, run 12 volts throught them and test at the ECU? Thanks Float, you're the man!

[rovert]

ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got it to run today, thanks guys for all your help!

[float_6969]

LOL, glad you got it running.

Mind telling us what the problem was for future reference?

[rovert]

Yes! To all you new guys that are doing engine swaps for the first time. The people on here know what they are talking about. Even if you think you have everything right and double checked you still need to check again. I did have a stuck injector but it was a quick fix and shouldnt of taken this much time. All this BS and its because I didnt plug in some connections properly, INCLUDING the ECU. My ecu was halfway plugged in so a lot of wierd stuff happened. Most of the time its not the cars fault, but yours! I feel stupid but I learned a great lesson.