Help. flooded engine.

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
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CrazyTrance
Posts: 247
Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 4:30 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx - vh45de
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So one of the o-rings failed on my injectors, i must have ****ed up when installing the injector and it finally failed. Fuel went flying everywhere. Shut the car off and pushed it back to the house. Replaced the injector's o-rings. The lower o-ring seemed very loose when i put it on. Also, there is a spot on the fuel rail where the o-ring is suppossed to be seated. And i wasn't sure if i was suppossed to put the o-ring on the injector or seat it in the fuel rail. So i put it on the bottom of the injector and dropped it into place.

WELL.

When i go to start the car i turn the key and it attempts to turn the engine over but no such luck. It makes a wierd BONG sound. Like it's trying to turn the engine over but cant. I try it one more time. Same thing. And I smell fuel. BAD. I notice there is gas leaking out of my ****ing intake!! HUGE puddles under my car. WTF.

SO here's what i think happened.

The lower o-ring must not have been seated. So when i turned the key to the on position the fuel pump primed and gas flew past the o-ring and straight into the combustion chamber. The intake valve must have been open and gas starts pouring through there and out the intake. I have never seen anything like this. EVER.

So basically my engine was trying to turn over a chamber full of fuel. So i pulled the plug and low and behold i stick the wood end of a long *** match into the chanber and it comes out smelling of fuel. The bottom is wet.

So here is my question to you

What is the best way of dealing with a SEVERELY flooded engine. WITHOUT hydro locking it. Given that it already isnt.

Should i pull all the plugs and turn it over? so there is no pressure on the cylinders?

Help!


tmorgan4
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 6:46 pm
Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder

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Just to be clear, the engine was NOT running when it happened, right? Sounds like you were just trying to start it and it never did.

These side feed injector O-rings are notorious for leaking. I found that out after I talked to a local race shop saying I had a leaking injector O-ring and they weren't surprised. Mine isn't as bad as yours, though.

The gas should evaporate pretty quickly on it's own. I'd change the oil since you've now got gas leaking down past the rings and into your oil. I'd also try and turn the engine over by hand on the crank bolt instead of continuing to use the starter.

It definitely wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and let the chamber sit open for a little bit. If you pull the plugs, turn the engine over a few times by hand and see if any gas comes out of the spark plug holes.

Stranger things have happened, but I'd be VERY surprised if you did any damage to the engine. I hydrolocked my VG33 and bent a rod severely but the engine was on the rev limiter when it sucked up about a gallon of water.

When you put the O-rings back in, make sure to grease them with a suitable lube (my Deatschwerks injectors included some stuff called "Super Lube") and make sure not to "roll" them. Easier said than done considering I've got a bad one too!

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CrazyTrance
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Joined: Mon Apr 04, 2005 4:30 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx - vh45de
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tmorgan4 wrote:Just to be clear, the engine was NOT running when it happened, right? Sounds like you were just trying to start it and it never did.

These side feed injector O-rings are notorious for leaking. I found that out after I talked to a local race shop saying I had a leaking injector O-ring and they weren't surprised. Mine isn't as bad as yours, though.

The gas should evaporate pretty quickly on it's own. I'd change the oil since you've now got gas leaking down past the rings and into your oil. I'd also try and turn the engine over by hand on the crank bolt instead of continuing to use the starter.

It definitely wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and let the chamber sit open for a little bit. If you pull the plugs, turn the engine over a few times by hand and see if any gas comes out of the spark plug holes.

Stranger things have happened, but I'd be VERY surprised if you did any damage to the engine. I hydrolocked my VG33 and bent a rod severely but the engine was on the rev limiter when it sucked up about a gallon of water.

When you put the O-rings back in, make sure to grease them with a suitable lube (my Deatschwerks injectors included some stuff called "Super Lube") and make sure not to "roll" them. Easier said than done considering I've got a bad one too!
Correct. it was NOT running. JUst trying to crank it over. and it didn't even budge.

Is wd-40 ok to use?

And also, when installing the lower o-rings. Do i put them in the fuel rail and not on the tip of the injector? Cuz i put them on the tip of the injector and it seemed to not get in the little divet in the fuel rail. The fsm doesn't say anything on installing the o-rings

Thanks for you quick response by the way!!

tmorgan4
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 6:46 pm
Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder

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I would definitely find something better than WD-40....let me look up the stuff that Deatschwerks sent me and see what I can find.

I put both O-rings on the injector before putting it in the fuel rail too.

tmorgan4
Posts: 925
Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 6:46 pm
Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder

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Looks like most of the products out there that are O-ring safe are silicone based. I'd go look around at the local auto parts store and see if you can find something similar.

http://www.manuf-rubber.com/superolube.html


T45
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Car: King Kong powered Z32

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Vaseline works and doesn't have any negative effects IIRC. WD-40 will eventually eat away at the oring. Pulling the plugs and cranking the engine over will work just fine. Just make sure you have the inj and coil harnesses disconnected. Sparky would be bad.

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Carl H
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Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX SE RB30DET

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disconnect the cas and roll the engine over without plugs to get the gas out...stand clear tho.i use engine assembly lube or trans lube to install orings, trick to installing them is to make sure the bore is completely dry of gasoline then use alot of lube on both the injector rings and bores to make sure it slides in.a ratchet with a deep socket about the diameter of the 'hole' in the injector works well to drive it home and apply equal force, tbar would be ideal but I have had good luck with the afformentioned method.

craigztoyz
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Car: lots of unique hot rods, and customs, with modern engines, and a good truck to pull the trailer.

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I put in a set of switches in my car when I wired it. One of them is the ground for the fuel pump, just for this situation.

If I flood it. I turn it off, then try to start it, after it fires, and try it one more time, then try with it on, and problem solved. With the switch on, everthing is normal, computer still turns it off, on, switch is just inbetween.

Just an option.

tmorgan4
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 6:46 pm
Car: 2000 Nissan Pathfinder

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If it already dumped so much fuel in that it isn't turning over I'm not sure cutting the fuel pump is going to help. I've got the same switch under my hood....in the form of a fuse.

craigztoyz
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Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:19 pm
Car: lots of unique hot rods, and customs, with modern engines, and a good truck to pull the trailer.

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I figured it would be handy to have it accessable, was handy on my V8 rx7 when drifting, and on the track, when it had issues. Hope to not need it again, but it was handy with the leaky injectors on old engine in this car. fuse is under hood, good for when you rarely need this.

Q45tech
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1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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The oem starter is so strong that usually the first single revolution bends the valves or rods and cracks the piston.

We have a museum of rods and valves from other mechanics mistakes over the years. Obviously not learning from the Challenger O ring Disaster.

We always remove the entire rail for examination and hose replacement.



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