Help finding turbo parts...

[nametakennow]

I've finally confirmed that I'm going turbo. I'm all over sr20forum searching for the parts I need. Sadly, I just missed a cheap Avenir setup .

Anyways, I'm asking for help from the handful of regulars in the Sentra section to find the parts listed below. I need to get them within the next 2-3 weeks, as I want to have at least a week to do the work on the car and get it tuned/running well before school starts.

Thus, the list...

370cc injectors (must fit lowport SR)SAFCIIBluebird or Avenir T25 w/ mani, jpipe, oil/water lines (though my oil return line will be a custom deal)Nissport or similar adapter for oil feed line2.5in dp flanged for T25 (I may just make my own, especially given my emissions considerations... one of the guys helping me do the install has a friend whose dad is a "master welder.")some sort of simple bypass valve

The IC and piping setup will be new and custom, more than likely, unless someone found a 60mm IC piping kit that fits a B15.

I think that's everything, I'll be getting a new oil pan at the same time because of my somewhat unique oil-return methodology, any recommendations would be nice.

Of course, all must be in working order. No shaft play on the turbo, it has to be able to last at least a year/6-8000mi on stock boost levels.

This is kind of a strange reason for a thread, but I figured more eyes are better, given the short amount of time I have to collect all this. Obviously, I don't want to buy parts just to buy parts, but I do need to get them in pretty quickly to give enough time for the incredibly slow pace my friends and I usually install stuff at (slow = careful, in our case).

And, lastly, you can expect a detailed thread full of pictures from the install day(s)/dyno tune/first drives.

Thanks! Respond here, IM, or email me with links.

[RED_DET]

http://tunertoys.com/ Its under fittings and flanges, then go to second page of parts.

They have a dual and single port adapter similiar to nissport for alot cheaper price. I have the dual port on my car. Works well.

[nametakennow]

Yayyy, that solves one thing that was going to annoy me for awhile, thanks.

edit: Hey RED, one more question about the oil line...

Running from the adapter on the sending unit you just linked me to, to the turbo, then through the return line to the oil pan on the bottom is all good, seeing as the oil is pulled up from there anyway to begin with. However, Mike (240kid) and I are discussing how to attach the oil line to the oil pan.

Two ideas:

1. Mike's - get a line fitting (ie - bolt with a hole through it), make a hole in the oil pan the size of the bolt, lock that in place with a nut, and attach the line to that.

2. Mine, very similar - us a brass fitting like I would if I was returning to the block as most people do, attach the line to that.

Basically, the point is, we're both still wondering how to attach whatever fitting we use to the pan and have it stay, as well as have the line stay on that fitting.

Part 2

Coolant - the article I've cited in the other thread about all this states that he used a T fitting where the coolant line goes to the throttle body, he then added a line from the bottom of the T to the turbo. I'm still unsure as to how coolant returned to the system. How is your coolant set up?

As you can see, the oil/coolant setups are my last hurdle as far as planning.

Other than that, I think it's pretty straight forward, patience will lead to boost .

That came out to be a long question, lol. I promise I'm done nagging after this one.
Modified by nametakennow at 12:39 AM 7/11/2005

[piknockout]

I'm not a huge knowledgable turbo guy, but I know that Jamie at PTI (www.powertechimports.com) has full turbo kits for the SE and even has his own turboed SE. As a matter of fact, we're installing one of his kits on my buddy's car in a couple of weeks. I'm just assuming you have an SE, so my apologies if I'm wrong. But he does have a lot of turbo knowledge and access to parts when talking about the B15. I hope this helps, and good luck!

[nametakennow]

I do have an SE.

I've looked around at PTI, and actually, looking at it again, it looks like they have some aluminum piping that could help with my IC setup, which is nice. The site also lists oil supply, but that link isn't up yet, I'll get in touch with them and see what they know too. Thanks!

[piknockout]

Yeah, Jamie seems to be a pretty good and knowledgable guy. My friend Aaron is working with him on slightly customized version of his PTI kit. I believe he's using a GT28XXX with Protech Manifold, PTI IC piping (powdercoated to your color for a little extra $), unsure on IC, 3" turbo back exhaust, the normal turbo upgraded injectors and fuel pump, Greddy Profec Type S boost controller, Greddy Type S BOV, and SAFC II. I'm sure there's plenty of stuff I'm missing, but that's the majority of it I believe. I really need to learn more about turbos, but I'm sure I'll get that education once we start installing his!

[nametakennow]

Yeah, that's pretty much all you need. What kind of T28 is it? A T28 is going to put out more boost than just an SAFC can handle, at least, if you're using it to it's full potential . I wish PTI had a 2.25in/60mm IC piping kit for B15s, it'd make my life a lot easier.

Turboing a Spec or is it an SE?

If it's an SE, let me know how you guys are doing your oil and water setups.

It seems that most of the install is quite simple, but this crucial part has me a bit frustrated, but it'll be worth it.

[piknockout]

It's an SE. I'll get him to post some info for you over here and he can probably answer some of your more detailed questions.

[nametakennow]

That'd be great man, thanks.

I just spent an hour going through a thread on B15Sentra about how to wire the SAFCII. My head is spinning.

Why did Nissan have to make the power and knock wires the same color?

Oh well, they're in different enough locations that I've got them differentiated now.

Thus, I really am down to the final details - how to attach the oil line to the pan and how to do my coolant stuff.

If he can help with that, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks a bunch for your help.

[RED_DET]

My block is a DET, which explains how the oil and coolant is setup. FACTORY STYLE!

For your coolant needs, I would suggest what Greg Perry did on his SE-R, since he turboed the stock us motor.http://www.turbochargedse-r.com/turbodayfour.html

Also from his site is an idea for oil source.http://www.turbochargedse-r.com/turbodaythree.html

Now take in mind tapping the block requires removing both oil pans. This seems to be the consensus for oil return. http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=OIL

Here is a quote from Greg Perry as well"Do not tap the oil pan.

In short, SR engines are unlike Honda engines in that the lower oil pan (there are two, upper and lower) is very shallow and is basically running at the 'full' stage.

If you were to run your drain line to the lower oil pan, I guarantee the oil will not drain due to the pan being full. This will back the oil up to your turbo, and cook it.

Repeat after me: I will not tap the oil pan. I will remove both oil pans and then tap in the factory location, which is a quarter-sized (and shaped) boss on the front of the engine."

Once the tapping is complete, all you need to do is run a hose, slip it over the barb and tighten down with clamp.

[nametakennow]

Oh... haha, glad you told me that now.

I was thinking of copying his coolant setup anyway, especially since I'm in GA, so cold isn't usually an issue.

I'm a bit nervous about drilling the block... I mean, it's a factory location, so it should be no big deal. Hmm... and that would mean I could use the oil lines provided, or at least the oil return line provided, I don't think the stock oil line would fit a multi-port adapter, but that depends on how its connector is.

Hmm... I wonder if there's anyone in ATL that's done it that could come help me out. I'll post in ATL-SR20.

[nametakennow]

Hey RED (what's your name, btw? I feel strange calling you RED all the time, lol), our sponsor SPL has a 2 port adapter for $15 (whoa!), it appears to be similar to the Nissport/TunerToys versions. They also have some oil fittings.

So, a couple things.

Do the stock oil lines (if I can use them) include an in-line restrictor? If not, can I use SPL's 1/8 to -4, or is -4 off? I usually see -3 or .060" when I browse SR20forum, but SPL's site says -4 works for T25s. I'll admit that I have no idea what the relation between inches and AN is.Second, for the return tap, would a 90* turn work? The 45*s seem to be hard to find.

Every time I think I know all I need to know, there's some goofy thing that gets me. I'm asking all this cause I intend to order any fittings that I'll for-sure need while I order my brake stuff from SPL. Of course, when I get my turbo/mani/etc in I'll be able to tell better what all I need, but the two turbo setups I'm inquiring about both include stock lines, and a good hardline will be nice as long as I can make it function properly.

Anyway, time to go to work, gotta make more money for the turbo fund.

edit: Haha, I just checked the FAQ again and noticed RED's mention of -3AN, so that answers my question. +1 for the "doh" count.
Modified by nametakennow at 11:38 PM 7/13/2005

[RED_DET]

Michael and yours?

Yes the OEM hard lines have a restrictor in place. The hard lines are more of a PITA then a aftermarket setup, but at least you know everything you need is on that line. As far as the return elbow, you should be able to use a 90* bend. This might work also for your specific needs:http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=OIL

As far as the hardlines go for you, I don't think they will work. You are going to be running your feedline from the back side of the motor. Now the coolant line should be a go since you are tapping into same place that a DET block uses feed. Return line will have to be just a regular hose designed for HOT coolanat of course. But at that rate, you could just use hose for both feed and return.

I haven't looked at SPL adapater, does it allow you to hood the "idiot" light back up too?

[nametakennow]

Idiot light? Not familiar with that. Do you mean the oil light on my dash?

That linked piece looks good, so I drill the hole, get all the shavings clear, then turn the non-threaded end into the hole I just made? I've had trouble finding exact info on how the tap is put in.

Here's a picture of the SPL, their site doesn't really operate normally, so I can't straight link the page...edit: picture not working...

http://splparts.com/Parts/Univ...k.jpg

http://splparts.com

Know of a good line kit I could use? I've heard bad things about the in-line restrictor on the JGY ones. I guess I could just piece together the stuff given the lists on SR20forum. I'd think the hardline for oil return would work, at least, since it's at least very nearly in the same spot as it would be on any other SR, given that I'm stuck with using the block's oil return boss.

Coolant-wise, I bet I can pick up coolant hoses at Autozone or something, so no big deal there.

Oh, and my name is Winston.

[RED_DET]

Yes the idiot light is the dash light. Although most say by the time it comes on, your engine is already ruined.

23\32 drill bit and a 1\2 NPT tap is what you need to do. After you drill, use the tap, then screw in that 45* 1/2, 5/8 barb I linked you to. There is no hard line for the oil return. Mines uses approximately 4 in of hose. One end clamped on the small elbow that is attached on the turbo(make sure you get that) and the other end to that barb.

I would contact the someone the ATP site. They should be able to hook you up with everything you need. I say go with stainless steel braided line and the appropriate fittings. I will look over their site, I should be able to come up with what you need.

That adapter is almost identical to what I have. Cheaper price too!

[nametakennow]

Great, will do.

It's a lot cheaper than the Nissport, and it's from a sponsor - doesn't get a whole lot better than that.

According to some local guys who've done the tap, you have to come in at an angle through the boss. Any idea what angle? I figured it would just follow the boss's path into the block. The pictures I've been able to find make me think that too. Maybe that's what they meant, I'll check in there again.

edit: The stock wastegate actuator on the BB Avenir T25 is set for 7psi, correct?
Modified by nametakennow at 10:07 PM 7/14/2005

[nametakennow]

One quick question...

Any 370cc injector will work, correct? There is no difference between the side-feed and top-feed injectors structurally, the difference is in the rail/how it is mounted. The dimensions of all the commonly used injectors for Nissans are the same, yes?

If so, any ideas on what other cars 370s may have come on? I've heard that... I30s or Q45s, can't remember which, are 370cc.

Anyway, the point is, I could buy 370s from a NICO person, SR20forum person, etc and they'd all be the same thing as long as they were Nissan injectors and/or aftermarket ones made for the SR?

edit: My brother asked me an interesting question:

Are all fuel injectors universally sized... like is a 4 bar Nissan injector the same size as a 4 bar Audi injector?

If so, it really doesn't matter what my source is as long as it's whatever bar fits my rail and it's high-enough flowing.

That may have been a REALLY retarded question, if it was, well... then it was.
Modified by nametakennow at 12:03 AM 7/17/2005

[RED_DET]

Not any 370cc injector will work, especially from other vehicles. I don't believe many other makes came with 370's either. The Q45 and Z32 have 370cc injectors. A sidefeed and topfeed injector are completely different in design, some are also high impedience and some are low. For example the 370cc injectors tha come with a blue bird motor are high impedience. The 444cc injectors that come with GTiR are topfeed and low impedience. Therefore a different fuel rail would be needed to use them in the blue bird or US highport sr20de. You would also have to wire in resistors to get the injectors to work properly with the ECU.

I have heard of people trying to use the US STi injectors, they are side feed, 480cc.

All injectors are rated at 3bar fuel pressure. So yes, a audi injector flows @ 3bar just like a Nissan injector flows @ 3bar. The injector doesn't control what bar it flows at, thats why there are aftermarket fuel pressure regulators, to allow you to turn the fuel pressure up or down and different programs/maps to tune for whatever you want. The audi injector maybe designed to flow xxxcc, while the nissan injector flows a different amount.

Just get you some GTiR 444cc injectors. They are designed like your current injectors. Top feed, low impedience.

[nametakennow]

Gotcha, I figured I was way off.

Top feed? I was told the RR SR was side feed?

edit: NISTECH helped me out - he says side feed, all Nissan engines now use side-feed, so it's just a matter of which ones use 370s to know which donor cars work.
Modified by nametakennow at 10:27 AM 7/19/2005

[RED_DET]

I guess they are side feed. But I'm have some conflicting information on whether they are high impedience or low. Seems as though they would be just like all the injectors in all the SR powered cars. But who knows, they changed so much on the RR motor.

[nametakennow]

I got conflicting info on whether they were side or top feed for awhile, especially when I searched the SR board.

I'll just make sure they're from a late SR like mine then, to be safe.

I'd think Nissan would use the same kind of injectors on all its cars though.

[nametakennow]

Hey Michael, I emailed you a couple days ago regarding what you sent me, delivery failed, something about your server.

Anyway, just thought I'd mention that, it wasn't a big deal, you knew everything I was going to say anyway.

Anyway, I think I've got some injectors locked down, I'm making sure they're sidefeed and if so they're mine, bwahhaahaha. After that it's all new parts/fittings/etc. The first install day is set for August 1st.

A fresh thread with pics and a vid, if I can find a host, will accompany the install. I'll include a complete write-up so as to have a bank of info with every major question someone might have about it answered, which will hopefully make it a resource for any other B-chassis owners looking to turbo like this, especially the B15 kids (most of whom opt for complete turbo kits from aftermarket companies like PTI).

Should be fun and hopefully helpful. Thanks for all your help!

[RED_DET]

Good luck!

[psushoe]

nametakennow... I'm the guy Josh (piknockout) was referring to on the PTI kit. I didn't get a chance to read through all of the posts here yet, but if you have any outstanding questions that weren't answered yet, let me know. For reference, the kit I will be running in a few weeks pretty much what Josh already said. The turbo is a GT2871R. Jamie at PTI is a good guy to work with. I have a few custom things coming on my kit that he was willing to work with (ie. the GT2871R was custom ordered with a T3 flange, same with Protech mani and dp so I can upgrade in the future, custom powdercoating, etc.). As of now, I won't be using the 71R to its full potential, but I plan on upgrading pistons in the future and will switch to a different fuel management system to push over 300 whp with it. If that's not enough, I could easily go to T3.

The T3 flanges were actually Jamie's idea. After talking for a while, he suggested it to save money in the future. It wasn't too much extra in the present, to I went for it

[psushoe]

You need top feed injectors for a B15 manifold and rail. You need side feed for B14 and earlier if you are switching the intake and ecu.

[nametakennow]

Now I'm really confused.

However, given that you've actually done this, I'll assume that the top-feed info is correct.

Thanks, I was just about to get some side-feeds. Hopefully there are some tops for sale .

By the way, check NICO Gen under the thread "Help me ID some parts..." - I got a few things I didn't expect to get this morning with my turbo/mani/heatshields/intake pipe/bov this morning.

[nametakennow]

Okay, I've hit a snag.

I measured the up pipe from the turbo. It's 50mm in diameter. That translates to about 2in. This means that my IC piping and IC should be 2in to match, no sense in having anything bigger.

That's all fine and dandy, my IC piping kit comes in a 2in size as well, so that's taken care of.

However, the Johnny Racecar FMIC I was going to run comes with no smaller than 2.25in end tanks.

I've emailed them asking if they could make a 2in one for me. We'll see what they say.

However, does anyone else make a 2in inlet/outlet IC, just in case?

[RED_DET]

See I knew I wasn't crazy about the injectors.

2.25" end tanks will work fine. You should still be able to fit the 2" coupler over the end tank.

[psushoe]

Just get some reducing couplers and you'll be fine.. or stretch the 2" ones

[nametakennow]

Sounds like I'll have to do the reduce or stretch method. Fine by me. Thanks!