HELP!!! DTC P2096 nobody can diagnose the issue. Repair GURU please.

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francishuu
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Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2020 10:51 am
Car: 2015 Infiniti QX60

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DTC P2096 with 2015 Infiniti QX60, I have this code for over 6 months. Sent the car to Infiniti dealer twice but no help. Sent it to 2 auto repair shops, and no cure. Now I am in despair and looking for help from the forum in hope of getting advice from you experts.
System lean on Bank 1. The engine will run excellently when parked (idle or high RPM). However when it is on the road or freeway for a few minutes, STFT on bank 1 will suddenly jump to 25% (max to display) when it is accelerated, but when you leave your foot away from the pedal, STFT will drop to normal to about 0%. Strange thing is Bank 2 is normal all the time and LTFT on bank 1 is normal as well.
So far, I have changed MAF sensor, B1S1, upper manifold assembly and lower intake manifold gasket (although it looks still good). I even let dealer changed ECM (suspecting PC might be malfunctional). I have done everything that I can think of, but all in vein. Please advise what I need to do to find the cause of the DTC.


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AZhitman
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Seen this more than once: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zwZEZaWM-g

Unmetered air getting past the sensor.

Keep us posted.

francishuu
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Jun 11, 2020 10:51 am
Car: 2015 Infiniti QX60

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Thanks Azhiman. I thought of vacuum leak and did smoke test but no leak found. Like I said when the car is parked, STFT reads perfect and abnormality only happens to Bank 1 when driving. That's why it is very difficult to diagnose.

HollywoodJackson
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AZhitman wrote:
Thu Jun 11, 2020 6:35 pm
Unmetered air getting past the sensor.
It's CRAZY :crazy: that as much $$$ the dealership charges, they couldn't figure that out. OR, maybe that was the entire point?

wwWOW.

Buffalowings69
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Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2022 5:45 pm
Car: 2021 Nissan Maxima SR

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Couldn't hurt to send a request to Scotty Kilmer on the you tube channel. He's been a mechanic over 50 years and knows a lot.

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VStar650CL
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I think you need to take a look at the actual B1S1 voltages instead of what the ECM thinks it's seeing by scanning the alpha. The sudden jump to full rich indicates the sensor is jumping way lean, and that sounds like a wire flexing under engine load when you accelerate. The ECM will only throw a hard code like P014C or P015A if the sensor flatlines or goes non-responsive, but it will pretty much scratch its electronic head over a signal that jumps around without staying flat. I doubt the heater is the problem because it wouldn't cause an instantaneous response, so the Brown wire can be pretty much excluded. The sensor itself is a 2.2V wideband type where lower than 2.2 indicates rich, higher indicates lean. The first thing to exclude (because it's easy) is the sensor ground. Backprobe the White wire on pin 1 (there are two White wires) on the sensor side of the connector with a T-pin or safety pin and jumper it to a good ground, preferably the negative battery post. If the problem goes away, there's high resistance or a break someplace in the circuit between the sensor and ECM pin 15. If that doesn't affect it, you'll need to run a long jumper inside the car so you can watch voltages while causing the problem. Check the White wire on pin 3 first, that's the reference voltage from the ECM and should read 1.8V at all times. If it changes when the problem occurs then there's a problem in that wire between the sensor and ECM pin 66. If that checks out, then there's probably an issue with the Black wire carrying sensor signal to ECM pin 67.


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