HELP! Coolant System having Problems!

[onecrazyfoo4u]

I have a 95 with a redtop in it. I just changed out the water pump, thermostat, both hoses, and put a new aluminum radiator in it. I'm still running the stock clutch fan with shrouding too. I went for a few minute drive to see how it was, and it was past H on the stock gauge and at 210 deg. on my autometer gauge within 3-4 minutes. This isn't normal, my autometer would never go past 180 before.

When I stopped, my radiator and upper hose were both pretty hot. But the lower hose and my coolant reservoir were both still cold. What does this mean? Does that point to something specific that isn't working properly? I've got to figure this out, I need my car badly, please help!

Also, it's just a stock replacement thermostat, and instead of just and open hole that you center up top, it has a little ball/pin in the hole, so it wouldn't flow as freely. Does this mean anything? Thanks!

[coolbone28]

You probably still have air in your system. Bleed the crap out of it and do it right, then go from there.

[onecrazyfoo4u]

I took it for another 5 min. ride, and my autometer gauge didn't go over 180 this time, but the stock gauge was on H the whole time. When I stopped the engine, the upper hose was somewhat hot again, and the lower hose was still cold. Only the top half of the radiator was hot, bottom half was cold. And I have heat inside, the heater's nice and hot, so my heater hoses are hot as well.

I opened up that 10mm bolt on the drivers side of the engine until straight liquid came out. What's the actual procedure to bleed the system? If that's the problem, I want to know the correct way to do it!

[coolbone28]

Best way iv'e found is to jack the front of the car as high up as you can get it. Take off rad cap and let the car warm up with the heat on HIGH. Squeeze the rad hoses to force bubbles out. Ususally takes me about a half hour of idling to really get all the bubbles out.

I would trust your autometer gauge over the stock one. Are you sure the stock sensor isnt bad? seems like 180 is about right as far as temp goes.

[onecrazyfoo4u]

Yeah, I rarerly trust the stock gauge. But the stock gauge rarely got up to H before the radiator, etc. swap. And the stock gauge never got over 190 deg. before also. I guess I'll try re-bleeding it tomorrow that way. Thanks!

Anybody else have a thermostat that has the little ball/pin in the top hole instead of just an empty hole?

[coolbone28]

Its just a jiggle valve. honestly you could drill a couple extra holes if you wanted just to help it flow a little more, but that is what they mostly all use.

[onecrazyfoo4u]

Well I went out this morning and the reservoir was almost out, so I filled that up. The radiator was also a little low, so I filled that up to. Then I bleed it again doing the screw method until it was just straight liquid coming out. Then I jacked the front of the car up and filled it through the radiator continuosly while reving the engine every so often.

Took it for a half hour drive and it didnt' overheat this time, stayed at a constant 180. It seems like it heated up to 180 really fast though. When I stopped, the top of the radiator and the upper hose was hot. But the lower hose and bottom of the radiator was still look warm. Is this normal?

I'm wondering if everyone's thermo's have that jiggle valve in them? Maybe I should drill it out to flow better....or do I even want it to flow better, will that help me out? Thanks.

[codyace]

It just seems like the system was never bled properly

[schanne]

Make sure you don't have any leaks behind your block, near intake manifold or any other hoses. Check them as you drive around town when its fairly warm. You might discover leaks like I did. Keep a close eye on your reserve tank and keep filling it up.

[onecrazyfoo4u]

Yeah, I don't have any leaks for sure....I check every time I get out of the car. Also, the hoses are nice and pressurized when it's running. Another wierd thing about the issue, the heater gets full heat within like 3 minutes of driving, it used to take at least 10 min. on cold mornings to get heat. I don't understand this thing....

[schanne]

Then you still have air bubbles in your system. I had that problem for awhile and just kept the reserve full. Put some water wetter in your radiator and try to bleed the best you can. Jack the front way high!!

My heater still blows hot pretty quick too. Good luck

[codyace]

fwiw: most sr20 turbo cars get heat quickly due to water return and water feed going through the turbo itself