k so heres my problem, got a 89 240sx with ka24det swapped in. has brand new clutch in it. ran fine parked it for winter and now i take it out of my drive way and it is slipping hard barely move in it. clutch seems like its not properly engaging? what to do? at first my clutch pedal was loose and not come back up properly so i raised the pedal and now the clutch friction is like all the way up at the top of pedal but worked then next day i parked it for winter. any ideas of whats going on or how i can adjust it so friction is in the middle or bottom of the pedal? im stumped.

Sounds like you have a leak.... MC, slaver, damper or lines. Try inspecting those, then if you see no leaks try bleeding it. If that doesn't work you may need a slave or MC, also remove the damper.

yeah check your slave cylinder and clutch fluid reservoir and top her off with some dot 3 if its low. My buds 1990 leaked from the slave and the pedal felt like crap

hey i got the same problem almost. i have new MC straight to new slave. i bled it today. took it for a run and it shifts great but the pedal feels light and it only comes up halfway when i release it... any ideas? thanks

bboy, you might need to adjust your clutch pedal.
Get under the dashboard and look at your clutch pedal, there is a rod and a nut which are attach to your pedal and is coming from your clutch master cylinder.
Undo the nut so the rod can be adjusted, turn the rod and adjust it towards the master cylinder until you have only about less than an inch of play in the pedal.
Then tighten the nut.

I'm new to this and i have a similar problem. And i know nothing about how to bleed anything, but some pointers would be nice and the problem i have is that, i can let the car warm on a day drive it for like 15-30 mins and it shifts fine. After that, the gears are hard as hell to get into. The gears that are hard to get into are 1,2, and 3. Instead going in easily, like the 15 to 30 min driving, i have to force it in. Also sometimes when i force it into 1st, i hold the clutch down and brake but if i let go off the brake it starts moving on a flat surface.

Your clutch is probably not completely disengaging, does your clutch pedal come all the way back up?

Edit:
For those that want to bleed your clutch lines.
Bypass the clutch dampening box.
Here's a guide:
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/clutch ... moval.html

It'll make bleeding the system much easier, and you'll be able to feel the clutch engagement better.
Also, buying a speedbleeder makes life much easier.

I bought one of these from SPLparts and replaced the bleeders on all my brakes and my clutch slave master, bleeding fluid sucks less now.
Your local autoparts store probably carries them too.

Razi wrote:Your clutch is probably not completely disengaging, does your clutch pedal come all the way back up?

Edit:
For those that want to bleed your clutch lines.
Bypass the clutch dampening box.
Here's a guide:
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/clutch ... moval.html

It'll make bleeding the system much easier, and you'll be able to feel the clutch engagement better.
Also, buying a speedbleeder makes life much easier.

I bought one of these from SPLparts and replaced the bleeders on all my brakes and my clutch slave master, bleeding fluid sucks less now.
Your local autoparts store probably carries them too.

Ok ill try out that procedure but just a quick question. If i reroute the hard line like in the procedure and remove the clutch block would it cause any problems in the long run?? And it says that its better to do it when you have some hard lines at your disposal, is that so if some people f*up on bending the hard line back into slave cylinder??

If you're careful, you won't break it.
Be slow and gentle with it, It was pretty easy when I did it.

Removing the block will make the pedal feel slightly stiffer but the trade off is you can feel when the clutch engages, and it's a good feeling.

Razi wrote:If you're careful, you won't break it.
Be slow and gentle with it, It was pretty easy when I did it.

Removing the block will make the pedal feel slightly stiffer but the trade off is you can feel when the clutch engages, and it's a good feeling.

I don't care if the feeling gets a litle stifer as long as the clutch disengages like it's suppose to. I'll be fine with that trade off. Thanks for the help.

I have similar problem except I replace the slave cylinder after that I drove it a little bit it shifted fine I parked it went to drive again it wouldn't move the gears move just fine but it doesn't go anywhere next day went out there the car moved so what's going on?

Hi Michelle - did the clutch pedal feel the same every time? Or was it stiffer/less free height when it wouldn't move? I'm guessing the engine revved but the car just didn't go anywhere?