p0717. SUV has 50k miles, runs/shifts and drives great, mpg is fine too. Appears its pertaining to the Transmission input sensor. HELP!

P0717 is for the CVT turbine (input shaft) sensor. It's a "performance" code as opposed to "flatline", which means the sensor is misbehaving but not stone dead. Generally that means the problem is the sensor itself and not the wiring. The sensor is in a very bad spot on the front of the tranny directly above the beehive, it's nearly impossible to replace without pulling the starter. Don't try to DIY it unless you're prepared for that. The starter may look like it should be easy to remove, but it isn't. The only practical way to get the bolts out is with a long extension and a swivel from inside the lefthand wheel well.

Thanks for that info. So driving it like this is not a problem, hopefully. So the sensors on the drivers side but what is the beehive? thanks for the tip- Id usually try it myself, but his appears to be more of a pain that I can or want to deal with. Do you think its doable by a private shop vs the dealer?

burrpenick wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 12, 2021 6:10 pm

Thanks for that info. So driving it like this is not a problem, hopefully. So the sensors on the drivers side but what is the beehive? thanks for the tip- Id usually try it myself, but his appears to be more of a pain that I can or want to deal with. Do you think its doable by a private shop vs the dealer?

You're most welcome. No problem driving, it will just drive limpy. The beehive is the CVT fluid warmer on the front of the tranny below the starter, it looks sort of like an old-fashioned beekeeper's box. Replacing the sensor isn't complicated except for needing to jack the car and having specific tools to bust the starter bolts, so any decent wrench jockey should be able to handle it.

One last question, aftermkt sensors OK here? Suggestion on what brand and where?

It's a Hall type, they use it as a cam sensor in other applications. So I'd stick with OE, especially given what a PITA it is to change out.

Thanks again. I watched the video- after removing that inner wheel well splash shield, the starter doesnt look that bad- using long extension and universal joint, but again, looks can be deceiving! That sensor can be had for $23 at Rock Auto- made in USA or Nissans for $150, and some in between like Delphi (GM?) for about $50. Decisions.................

I recently replaced my starter. Yes, it takes alot of patience. The youtube videos makes it look like it takes 20-30 min. Yes, in edited form. More like a couple hours if not half a day.
Took me like 12hrs. A slow meticulous process for me. Initially, I was going to do a couple of steps each day but decided to just get it over with.

The only hard part is trying to bolt the dang thing in with one hand which is close to impossible. If you can get a squishy toy or item to hold it in place, that is what helped me.
Then you can eventually bolt it in with one hand. Good luck with this and your associated repair.

Considering the starter is THAT hard, has ANYONE figure out a method of replacing that transmission sensor that is blocked by the starter without removing the starter?

burrpenick wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 13, 2021 7:42 am

Considering the starter is THAT hard, has ANYONE figure out a method of replacing that transmission sensor that is blocked by the starter without removing the starter?

Not possible. You can get at the connector and bolt, but the sensor extends too deep into the trans to be removed with the starter in place.

well thats a time saver! Good to know its just not possible. Another wrench I know says he would stay w/the OE part vs an off brand. Its so temping for me, but think I'll listen to people who have been there! It seems like that NISSAN part is pretty much the same price everywhere?? Thanks, George

UPDATE: Wife had to take the Rogue on a 250 mile trip. The vehicle has been driven mostly all on short city trips- in hilly western NC- for the past month. The CEL was on when she left, but she noticed the next day in Atlanta that it was off. Could the highway drive have somehow caused the trans to clear itself? Or is this just a warning that the trans speed sensor is not working correctly and that I need to watch/replace it soon?

On the starter, I didnt mean to make it look difficult. But if you had a friend with a long skinny arm to lie under the wheel well to hold the starter while you bolt it in, a two man team might make everything easier. Or your teen or wife willing to get dirty, but better a teen.

It will be easier when your not alone installing the starter.

Plus, you'll get good practice changing it, seems like many in the forum have done so, I did it 12 yrs later so I knew none the better.

Basically, 2 bolts, a wire, and 1 connector.

burrpenick wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 15, 2021 8:58 pm

The CEL was on when she left, but she noticed the next day in Atlanta that it was off. Could the highway drive have somehow caused the trans to clear itself? Or is this just a warning that the trans speed sensor is not working correctly and that I need to watch/replace it soon?

If it's missing a tooth once in a while when cold then it could pass an SRT on a long drive and turn off the light. But it shouldn't be missing any teeth ever, so it's still on the way out and you'll want to replace it.

Testing- doesnt appear that I've been getting notified of replies, lets see if this one comes. Regarding the last reply, Im not sure how this trans speed sensor works- and have no ida what an SRT is (Mopar hot rod!) missing a tooth makes me wonder? Sure hope its not a gear inside the trans- must be on the the sensor itself- although I thought it was electrical only? Thanks, George

burrpenick wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 18, 2021 6:06 pm

Testing- doesnt appear that I've been getting notified of replies, lets see if this one comes. Regarding the last reply, Im not sure how this trans speed sensor works- and have no ida what an SRT is (Mopar hot rod!) missing a tooth makes me wonder? Sure hope its not a gear inside the trans- must be on the the sensor itself- although I thought it was electrical only?

SRT is "Self Readiness Test", it's a fixed number of key cycles and circumstances without an error being detected. All DTC's will clear themselves after passing an SRT, although the requirements are much more involved for some DTC's than others. Calm down, it's very unlikely it's the gear.