HELP ca problems out the butt

[180coupe]

so i just purchased a ca18det s13 240sx. The only upgrade includes downpipe/catback exhaust, T25G SR turbo, and walboro 255 fuel pump and Apexi SAFC neo.

The safc is put on REALLy rich right now (last owner wantd to be safe about the turbo) so the car is running rich out the gonads, and it also has a N60 maf on there right now, so onto the problems

it has trouble staying on in the mornings, i have to rev it to keep it going, and when you rev it its not a smooth idle at all, the rpm hesitates and stumbles a couple times when you hit the gas, never a smooth rev.

during driving the car will hesitate all the sudden also, then sometimes it goes into complete **** mode, where when i hit the gas to start moving, the engine will bog down and want to cut out alomst, i can hit the gas all i want but the engine will not even rev at all.

Please help, this car is killing me, i thought this car was running good but i was very wrong, please help me if you can, thanks in advance!
Modified by 180coupe at 7:35 PM 12/12/2008

[Ca_Silvia]

kinda sounds like your MAF if screwed, try swapping in a buddies or get another to find out.

SAFC is garbage and can screw your A/F ratio pretty good. Its hard to diagnose problems on a modified engines so i hope your ok with eliminating possiblities to start.

[180coupe]

yeah i think its the maf problem also, my car is at a local tuner shop right now, tomorrow the last owner of the car is bringing them the stock maf and paying to put it on the dyno to get the safc tuned properly, but could the maf and safc be the soul purpose of the car running like complete utter poop? sorry i don't know much about these motors at all, i like to learn but so far its been a very frustrating learning experience : (

[boost_boy]

yeah i think its the maf problem also, my car is at a local tuner shop right now, tomorrow the last owner of the car is bringing them the stock maf and paying to put it on the dyno to get the safc tuned properly, but could the maf and safc be the soul purpose of the car running like complete utter poop? sorry i don't know much about these motors at all, i like to learn but so far its been a very frustrating learning experience : (

There's the problem right there. People are too quick to throw upgrades on something they know nothing about which subsequently turn out to problematic. The safc and the maf is where some of your problems are. The correct connection of the original equipment would help as well. If the factory set-up is not followed, then you will have the problems you are having.

Dee

[180coupe]

yeah i understand you there, i told the guy who's looking over my car that i don't care if he gets it back to bone stock, as long as it runs good thats all i care about, i don't care about power, reliability is my main goal

[ca18detgabby]

something is definately wrong...........

first and formost, a SAFC does not ADD FUEL, it is used to reduce fuel.

second I would start with the basics and check for vac leaks and testing coil packs. I would also put some fresh plugs in there.

then check the O2 sensors and make sure your ignitor is properly mounted and grounded. (thanks for that idea rico..... seems alot of people have had this issue)

then I would also consider some grounding straps.

make sure the SAFC is connected properly and tuned to correct the MAF. I forget but I think it is 2 in 5 out, but dont quote me, maybe Im thinking of something else.

[180coupe]

thanks for the advice, i'll let the guy at the tuning shop know these things, i don't know anything about this motor unfortunetely so i'm hoping that they can get it fixed, the previouse owner said that the car ran fine before with teh stock maf except for a stumbling problem at 5500 rpm, so they're gonna put the stock maf on and go from there

[ca18detgabby]

thanks for the advice, i'll let the guy at the tuning shop know these things, i don't know anything about this motor unfortunetely so i'm hoping that they can get it fixed, the previouse owner said that the car ran fine before with teh stock maf except for a stumbling problem at 5500 rpm, so they're gonna put the stock maf on and go from there

5500 was the peak point of the stock turbo......

[180coupe]

yeah i heard something about the ca maf maxing out around there, it has a t25g sr turbo on there right now, i don't care what he does, turn the boost down and run it like stock, i just want it to run god : (, i just care about getting around irght now

[D_Stirls]

something is definately wrong...........

first and formost, a SAFC does not ADD FUEL, it is used to reduce fuel.

SAFC range or correction is +- 50% so it can both add and remove fuel

[turbo-sil40]

something is definately wrong...........

first and formost, a SAFC does not ADD FUEL, it is used to reduce fuel.

second I would start with the basics and check for vac leaks and testing coil packs. I would also put some fresh plugs in there.

then check the O2 sensors and make sure your ignitor is properly mounted and grounded. (thanks for that idea rico..... seems alot of people have had this issue)

then I would also consider some grounding straps.

make sure the SAFC is connected properly and tuned to correct the MAF. I forget but I think it is 2 in 5 out, but dont quote me, maybe Im thinking of something else.

【Ｓｅｔｔｉｎｇ Ｍｅｎｕ】→【Ｈｉ－Ｔｈｒｔｌ】・【Ｌｏ－Ｔｈｒｔｌ】Air correction factor setting (Throttle opening, large/small)orSetting menuCorrection factor = zeroThe graph, at selection, is displayedas a highlight displayCorrection area (Decrease amount)Correction factorThrottle openingCorrection area (increase amount)Correction engine RPMFinal number２ . Select [Hi/Lo-Thrtl] in the１ . Select [Setting] in the setting menumain menuIn the SAFC, the input airflow signal is converted into an air volume value and this valueis corrected by the air correction factor. As an output signal, the corrected air volumevalue is converted back into an airflow signal and then this signal is output to the electroniccontrol unit (ECU).Accordingly, supposing that the correction factor is +10%, the ECU recognizes that the airvolume has increased 10%, so fuel is increased about +10%.For air correction factor setting, the air correction factor can be adjusted by 1% incrementsin the correction range of +50% to –50% for each engine RPM at 12 points. It canalso be set according to the throttle opening level

This was taken directly from my manual. If it were me i would put the engine back to stock and see were the problem is coming from. If the SAFC is not setup perfectly then you are gonna encounter a lot of problems. if you rush "just to get it done" then it will never be right..

[180coupe]

got the car back from the tunershop today, pretty much its still the same in crappy condition, they couldn't do anything for it, the safc didn't respond to the motor, it seemed when he added fuel it would affect it but no matter how much fuel he tried to take away nothing happend, idk if the safc is hooked up correctly, my friend is gonna come tomorrow and check for me. The car has a major problem of running rich as hell at idle, but then leans out when you get into boost, and the car still stumbles here and there, it sucks, not sure what to do with it but swap back to a Ka series motor

[boost_boy]

got the car back from the tunershop today, pretty much its still the same in crappy condition, they couldn't do anything for it, the safc didn't respond to the motor, it seemed when he added fuel it would affect it but no matter how much fuel he tried to take away nothing happend, idk if the safc is hooked up correctly, my friend is gonna come tomorrow and check for me. The car has a major problem of running rich as hell at idle, but then leans out when you get into boost, and the car still stumbles here and there, it sucks, not sure what to do with it but swap back to a Ka series motor

My sig says it all. Put the car back to stock. Note to all, if your car is your daily driver, don't screw around with b/s upgrades that you are not familiar with.

Dee

[180coupe]

thats the problem i did put it back to stock, stock maff, stock settings on the safc, and the car runs super rich at idle for some reason, and leans out when going into turbo

the safc is only to fix this problem, if it was working properly anyways, my friends gonna come over tomorrow and check out the safc installation to see if it was done correctly, after that i'm putting the car into the tuner shop again to get it professionally safc tuned so it can run properly

[new200guy]

i would recommend that you take the ECU and check for codes. there's a red and green led. see what you come up with there.

if you have no faults, remove the SAFC or go on the net and look for the instruction manual and make sure that it is installed correctly.

BEING THAT YOU GOT A USED CAR, DO WHAT I DO, A COMPLETE AND THOROUGH TUNE UP. NEW PLUGS, FILTERS, OILS, O2 SENSOR ETC. THAT WAY YOU CAN RULE OUT A FEW THINGS AT A TIME AND YOU KNOW ITS BEEN TUNED UP.

also verify you FPR.

[ca18detgabby]

just curious......... what kind of ECU are you running?

Is there a reason you are hesitating to remove the N60 and SAFC?

PS Im thinking of a SAFC not being able to add more fuel on the INJECTOR side..... god dam I need to edit my posts before posting when IM at work.

[180coupe]

the N60 maf is off the car, i have everything set back to stock except for the safc which is in the car, we did take the safc off to get everythign back to normal stock setting but the car still ran rich as hell at idle and when going into boost it wants to lean out, one of my nissan experienced friends is comming over today to look at it, he's gonna check the safc installation and see what he can do for me

[boost_boy]

the N60 maf is off the car, i have everything set back to stock except for the safc which is in the car, we did take the safc off to get everythign back to normal stock setting but the car still ran rich as hell at idle and when going into boost it wants to lean out, one of my nissan experienced friends is comming over today to look at it, he's gonna check the safc installation and see what he can do for me

For the love of GOD man, listen to what's being said to you. Remove the safc and then you can say the car is back to stock. Put the stock 370cc injectors back in it because I don't understand the theory behind installing an SAFC with a bigger AFM and stock injectors. Make the car really stock and get back to us.

Dee

[r34 gtr]

Yeah gabby, I definitely used my SAFC to add fuel before I threw in huge injectors.

[180coupe]

ah thanks for the help guys, i did remove the safc and its still the same : ( but i've worked out a deal and will be going rb, thanks for the helps!

[ca18detgabby]

well if everything is back to stock.......... then you have an issue somewhere else.

being that rich, but it leans out in boost........ how do you even know this? sounds like maybe a FPR issue.

ps what are you doing with the motor? please dont just lay it by the side of the road

[180coupe]

we put it on a dyno and hooked a wideband up to it, its at 12 at idle, and leans out majorly in two sports in the higher rpm's i can't remeber exactly where, no the ca18 is not going to waste lol, the guy who is doing my rb swap is taking my ca and he is going to rebuild it and do some magical nissan things with it, so it'll have a much better future with him then me