Help! Broken Spark plug!!

[zooyork1]

While changing the plugs on a 2005 sentra, I broke one of the plugs, so the porcelain piece came out, but the threaded part of the plug is still in the block. Can someone tell me what the best approach to removing the threaded piece is? I am pretty savvy, but this thing is killing me! Thanks!

[RED_DET]

I would suggest taking it to a shop and letting them remove. Might as well bite the bullet, because if you jack up the threads, it will get even more costly.

[UK-P11GT]

buy a set of extractor pins, essentially big threaded bolts but the threads are reversed so as your tighting it counter clockwise in the spark plug hole is should loosen off the metal stuck inside, check the bore for any loose pieces that could have fallen in, or may end up with a scored cylinder or a chip out of 1 of the valve stems,

[kenmal]

this is the 1st time I heard of such disaster as per say and would be interested to know how u managed to get it fixed...

I would recommend a vacumm cleaner nearby while trying to unplug it...cant imagine what will happen if a chip fell in the compression chamber!!!

[redtop91]

I've broken mine on my SR20DET 240sx. I dunno about the new Sentra and it's motor but the easiest recourse I decided on was to remove the head. I've done it a couple of times so it was faster and cheap than getting a mechanic to do it.

[kenmal]

agreed...probably just a dozen of screws and then the broken plug should be easily visible...(be careful with the rubber seal when closing it back though)

I am curios though...the plug opener fits nicely into the metal part of the plug...how the can the porcelain break???

I opened mine regularly to check the head...and so far no such accidents...

[UK-P11GT]

pulling the head off should really be the last resort. theres alot involved and if ur doin it properly u should always get the head skimmed and a new gasket every time its removed.

[redtop91]

u should always get the head skimmed and a new gasket every time its removed.

You mean decked? No that's wrong. There is no reason to deck a head after removal unless you are using a metal head gasket. And if you deck the head you have to deck the block...

[UK-P11GT]

You mean decked? No that's wrong. There is no reason to deck a head after removal unless you are using a metal head gasket. And if you deck the head you have to deck the block...

not sure wat decking is, but over here in the uk when we pull off head we cnc skim 3/4 thousands of an inch off the head incase the head has flexed wen loosening the head from the block. the block doesnt have to be machined, its machined cast iron, after its initially machined by nissan. when taking the head off the block doesnt have to be altered apart from new head bolts which should also be used.Im not sayin all this to prove u wrong or anythin, I used to do it at college and made a living building sr's and rb's.

[redtop91]

I dunno. I've never had to deck (shave off a thin layer to make sure it is flat) a block after removing the head and I've never had any problems. Also if you shave the head to be flat and not the block (which will have warped along with the head) you won't have a proper head gasket seal. Irregardless if I was in his shoes I'd remove the head. It is easy, cheap, and fast.

[UK-P11GT]

I dunno. I've never had to deck (shave off a thin layer to make sure it is flat) a block after removing the head and I've never had any problems. Also if you shave the head to be flat and not the block (which will have warped along with the head) you won't have a proper head gasket seal. Irregardless if I was in his shoes I'd remove the head. It is easy, cheap, and fast.

the block is cast iron, it wont warp. cylinder heads are made from aluminium or a light alloy. there prone to bend a block cant really bend much with heat.removing/refitting a head is not easy/cheap or fast! regardless of how good a mechanic you are!I think you'l find if u refit a used gasket u wont get a perfect seal. should maybe get a bit more info.

[kenmal]

Think we all went over board n confused with the block and the top.

The blocks (in the mid to bottom of engine) are "put together" with an approx 1 mm piece gasket. If it is warped, then naturally skimming or levelling is necessary...bcos the gasket is not designed to seal offf uneven blocks.

on the other hand, the top is simply a cover above the cam shaft and normally the seal is a relatively thick rubber and should close gaps caused by warping.

In my opinion, if the warp is so bad that the top-seal is not able to close the gap...well...the engine is ..

to be fair...leaks do happen after many years bcos the "top" rubber seal is harden.