HELP!Breaking in engine and clutch!HELP!

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ca240
Posts: 190
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 6:42 am

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alright...i'll be done rebuilding my engine and installing it by friday night...how should i go about breaking in the engine and clutch(both brand new) at the same time...i've heard to get in 2nd and take the car from about 3000 to 6000 rpm then engine brake down to 3000 again and repeat about 10 or 15 times...but with the clutch you're not suppose to put loads like that on it right?...so what do i do to break in both at the same time...

i need some advice very soon..give me your recommendations...thanks alot!

BTW...it's an 89 240sx undergoing an auto to manual swap at the same time...any advice with the wiring?...thanks again


llamabeta
Posts: 404
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2003 7:57 pm

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The majority seems to pick a set amount of mileage to drive. I'd recommend a minimum of 500 miles for your rebuild. Most go 1000miles. Avoid redlining etc etc. Take it up to no more then 4000rpm varying and try not to keep a constant speed for too long. Watch out for speeds above 75mph. There are just general guidelines. As I got closer to my final mileage I would begin to give the car a little more. i.e. increase another 1000rpm etc.

As for the clutch. Break in for 300 to 500 miles. Just drive normal; with smooth shifts and deliberate throws.

Hope this helps.

ca240
Posts: 190
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 6:42 am

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anyone else got anything?...i'd like to have a couple opinions on how to do this...thanks llamabeta

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C-Kwik
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Posts: 8070
Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2002 9:28 pm
Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX

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Just don;t drive it at full throttle all the time and you should be fine. Breaking in a motor is nothing more than rounding the peaks from the crosshatching on the cylinder walls. High loads and or high RPM's can cause too much pressure and heat on these peaks and instead or wearing them down it causes it to fold over. This gives a place for air and fuel to escape by the rings at.

For breaking in the clutch, RPM is not important. You just want to shift easy and normally. No race launches or hard shifts. What you are trying to do is bed the clutch in with the flywheel and pressure plate. It's similar to bedding brakes, except that it's hard to create a consistent and controllable friction load with a clutch without overheating it so the cycle is longer. About 300-500 miles of easy driving should do the trick.

s13sr20chris
Posts: 4148
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
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500 miles of easy CITY(not highway) driving. you need like stop and go stuff. thats for the clutch. remember, you must slip it enough to bed it in then let it cool for a minute or so. for the motor, just keep driving and keep changing you oil. a lot of stuff is going to show up in your oil here shortly.

ca240
Posts: 190
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2003 6:42 am

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alright...i guess i really needed an understanding of what you're trying to do while breakin in the engine and c-kwik i think you hit it pretty good...so all that they mean when they say seating the rings is that you're rounding off those little peaks from the honing?...i thought it had somethin to do with the pistons and the rings or somethin..i dunno...so i'll just keep it under 4k and not go over 55 for like the first 500 miles...sound good...

man i gotta do this all in like 2 days...that will be hard...thanks for all the help and please keep adding...thanks


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