HELP, another overheating thread

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ToolMaker240
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2007 10:43 am
Car: Pearl White 1997 240sx se

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ok so my 97 240 at keeps overheating when i pull a hill. I put a new t stat in it today and it is still overheating. it only does it when im pulling a hill though, it starts and idles fine and stays cool in town no prob please help. could someone show me where the proper bleeding procedure is please ive tried the search but it keeps timing out thanks in advance, btw whats the deal with everyone having overheating probs?


fun240
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Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2007 12:42 pm
Car: 95' S14, 91' NX1600

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You're correct, it's overheating because you haven't let all the air out

Start the carLet it get warmThere is a bolt on your intake, with a yellow sign that says (DO NOT OPEN WHEN HOT) Open this bolt for about 15 seconds, and then pop your radiator cap offLet it bleed out a bit, but make sure you're pouring water into the radiator the entire timeSqueeze the TOP Hose on the radiator, the same hose where you replaced the thermostat, but more towards the radiatorBubbles will come to the surface of where the cap goes and where you pour fluid in the radiatorKeep squeezing the hose till a lot of the bubbles go awayPut the bolt back in and put the cap back on the radiatortake the bolt out after about 10 secondslet it bleed for a secondpop the cap off the radiator and pour water into itYou have to make sure you're pouring the same amount of water into the radiator while you are bleeding it

You need to do this a fair amount of time

You want all the air out of the system, if you drive it around a bit after, and the temp is still going up, take the bolt out and bleed the system while you pour water in it

If the motor is almost running hot and you take the bolt out, antifreeze is hot look out, and make sure you are pouring water into the radiator while it is releasing antifreeze out of the bolt hole

don't get burned

Fill the resivour till it's half full - If fluid is backing up into the resivour then you need to keep bleeding the system because the car is still overheating - fluid may come back into it a few times before you start - but you just need to bleed the air out, that's all it is

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ToolMaker240
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Car: Pearl White 1997 240sx se

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thanks for the advise ill try that tomm. i guess there is now way around letting the coolant blow all over the place huh? also ive heard people say to put it on an incline is that necessary?

maximaRIP
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Joined: Tue Jul 15, 2008 5:14 pm
Car: maximaRIP 240sx 1976 chevy van

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you can place a jack on the front of the car and push down on the car server to let the air bubble out of the system.. try that it help me. oh and dont forget to leave the heater on high cause you can trap air in the heater core....

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ToolMaker240
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ive been doing what you said for the past hour and it isnt helping me. is coolant supposed to continually come out of the bolt hole because its not. i tried it on a hill and on flat ground same results please help

fun240
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Car: 95' S14, 91' NX1600

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Not continually.

It will come out a lot with a lot of bubble in it, from the bolt hole, for awhile

Make sure when u repressurize the system before you take the bolt out, or pop the cap off

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ToolMaker240
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Car: Pearl White 1997 240sx se

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fukin240 wrote:Not continually.

Make sure when u repressurize the system before you take the bolt out, or pop the cap off
thanks for the quick response but what do you mean there about repressurizing

fun240
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Car: 95' S14, 91' NX1600

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Best to maybe give your phone number, so i can call and help you out, and make sure you're doing everything right bro

You need to rev the motor up, get it over warm, to almost HOT, and take the bolt out let it bleed, then pop your cap off and pour water in after about 15-20 seconds of letting it bleed - maybe 30

if you're doing that, and everything else i told you, the system should be bleeding out without a problem

Rev the motor up and get it pass warm - then pop the bolt out - let it bleed for about 10-15 seconds, pop the cap off pour water in fill the radiator to the top, then squeeze the hose to get the air bubbles output your bolt back in, cap on the radiator tothen rev the engine back up past warm, and do it again

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Gr8plainsDrifter
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Car: 1989 240sx

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is your rad cap holding pressure? maybe its time for a new cap?

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ToolMaker240
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Car: Pearl White 1997 240sx se

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well im doing that verbatim and still no success. im ready to accept defeat and pay someone. it is 12 degrees where i live now and my nads are frozen, tired of fukin with it. the cap is new also that was the second thing i tried. there must be another prob i dunno. i really appreciate the help tho man i may try it again tomm if the weather isnt so bad. the odd thing is though that it only gets real hot under load, did you have the same symptoms?and the t stat is in the housing connected to the bottom hose. not bein a smart azz so that is the one i was squeezing not the top. although i kinda did a little of both

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ToolMaker240
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im gonna try pullin the thermostat out tomm and see if there is any change maybe its defective

fun240
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The thermostat goes in the top of the motor in block, before the housing goes on near the timing chain guide cover and intake

What you mean bottom? Lol

It's the top hose on the radiator that you squeeze, where did you put your thermostat?!?!?

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ToolMaker240
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right but the hose starts from the bottom of the rad going to the t stat housing, and then there is another hose on the top of the rad that runs along side the intake runner, where the air release bolt goes. guess your pov and my were diff i really appreciate the help tho man i may have to hit u up tomm again ill e-mail u my number if i fuk with it again

fun240
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Ya i see what you're saying now

Ok, You just need to get the car hot bro - Like let it run for awhile, rev it up pretty good, or even drive it man. You gotta get the temp above warm, and you wanna run your heat to make the motor hot

but anyways, just try what i'm saying. You have to let the system build some pressure (IE - Get the motor above warm temp) before you release the bolt and you wanna make sure all the air is out of the radiator, by squeezing that hose, and letting the bubbles come out

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ToolMaker240
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hey i really appreciate it dude im gonna try it this after noon again for the last time

modulation
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Water pump maybe?I know other people are saying burp the system, but if your car was running fine and then started having problems I don't see how that could be air in the system since it never could have been introduced.

You put the thermostat in there because you were having cooling problems right? Not thermostat first then cooling problems?


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ToolMaker240
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Car: Pearl White 1997 240sx se

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well im trying a new clutch fan now, waiting to get the parts ill let ya know what happens. changing the thermostat would put air in the system which is why it would need to be bled(in response to modulation)

modulation
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ToolMaker240 wrote:well im trying a new clutch fan now, waiting to get the parts ill let ya know what happens. changing the thermostat would put air in the system which is why it would need to be bled(in response to modulation)
But you had over-heating problems before you put in the thermostat right?So the original cause of the over-heating isn't air in the system..

But yeah obviously you gotta bleed it.

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ToolMaker240
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right, that was the first day I tried to fix anything, so that was the first step. I thought i did it wrong, and still may have not done it correctly so i kept trying. still waiting on parts

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SullivanRacing06
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pull your car on a steep grade or up on jack stands, take the rad cap off and turn the air temp selector all the way to hot, and let the car run till the t stat opens, keep filling the system up untill its full

modulation
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Do you reply to all threads just reiterating info that people have already said?Trying to get your post count up or something?

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ToolMaker240
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clutch fan solved it all, i appreciate all the help

modulation
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Word!Thanks so much for posting and saying that yes that is the problem cause I now know what the symptoms are for when mine go out.I hate people that post problems, but never how they fixed them.

You a machinist?


fun240
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Joined: Sun Mar 04, 2007 12:42 pm
Car: 95' S14, 91' NX1600

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Glad you got it worked out man!

I knew someone else eariler this month or last was having the same problem with the hill deal. Thanks again for posting what fixed it!


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ToolMaker240
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Car: Pearl White 1997 240sx se

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yea im a toolmakers apprentice of 2 years, + 3 years high school. ive spent all of my time learning to machine all sorts of things, so i dont have as much automotive technical experience as id like to. the internet is my number one resource for troubleshooting an automotive problem. so i run into those posts with no conclusion all the time. and it sux


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