Hello my name is Jonathan and I need help I’m buying a 1992 300zx tt 2+2 but the real main seal and the oil pan is busted, the owner swap the engine at 80,000 miles now it has 82,000 miles when it busted on him I’m going to get the car it’s been sitting for about 2 years my question is do you guys believe there would be more to fix than just those two items I know they are going to be labor work I mean changing the oil pan I have to well one of the ways to change it is to fully pull out the engine is there an easier way to do that? And for the rear main seal I know I have to separate it from the tranny and I’m also going to put a new retainer that goes on the rear main seal

Yes, prob needs more than just oil pan and RMS replacement. If the car was ran for any length of time, prob need a rebuild.
Very difficult to diagnose over the internet. I'd try to spin the engine with all the plugs out via front crank pulley and see if it rotates freely.

The owner says it starts and that it does not have an engine knock but I will try to spin the belt to see if it’s not locked

I spoke to him yesterday and he said once he saw the oil leak outside the corner store he decided to just tow it home and it’s just been sitting there he wanted to keep it but he’s giving me the opportunity to take it off his hands

If it turns over, do a quick cold compression test. numbers look OK, do a complete re seal while the motor is out.

And it’s right in the front correct just like any other car just turn it to se if it turns

yes, main crank pulley bolt, 27mm hex head. Will need to remove some of the rad fan shroud to access.

If you could contact me that’ll be great 5129869355

Not to be rude but judging by the way this conversation is going you should probably find someone local to do the PPI with you or pay a mechanic. You could be walking into a money pit of mammoth proportions and no amount of forum chatter or even over-the-phone help will be sufficient to judge your potential purchase properly. I would go so far as to pull whatever oil may be remaining in the pan (if any) and send it for an oil analysis before jumping into this. Just because the crank turns doesn't mean the bearings/crank/block seats are good. A spun bearing can very easily allow the engine to turn especially when cold. Basically my advice, treat this like a roller with a bad engine and don't pay any more for this car than you would for a roller. Good luck.

While you have the tranny off, do a new clutch.

Thank you for that nolimitz32 I sure will I work with a mechanic so I’ll ask him to do a ppi test I’ll also ask my brother in law they’ll be my best bet I really hope it’s not to bad but you’re right that’s one way to see I’m going to pull the trigger on it I’ll treat it like a Russian roulette go big or go home but daspyda you think I should still change it if it has a stage 2 clutch with less than 15,000 miles ill take a look at it to see if the bearings etc I hope i don’t fall to a money pit but then again I don’t mind I know it’s going to be a lot of work but with the right mind and people not even people just the mindset she can be brought back to life I can do this

It depends on how you've driven those 15k miles. If you were aggressive, it's cheaper to replace now.

Well I haven’t really driven it but you’re most likely right I should replace it is there anything specific I should look for ?

Maybe consider a lightened flywheel and clutch from Z1.