HELP! 00 I30t cold start issues, rough idle and shut off

[cdotadot]

got 196k on my i30t, great car but with the cold weather now it's acting crazy! when it sits overnight or for a few hours and the weather is cold, the car has a hard time running. it will run for 5 secs and then shut off. i have to start it a few times and rev lightly to keep it running. if i do that for a while i can drive off but i can't stop or slow down or it will stall and shut off. just replaced spark plugs and air filter but this was happening before the replacement. once the car runs for a while the problem goes away. there is a slight change in performance and fuel economy but not too bad. MAF sensor maybe? PLEASE HELP! oh yeah it has a power steering leak too that i gotta get fixed but money is tight!
Modified by cdotadot at 1:54 PM 10/21/2009

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Dont really knowEGR valve?

[cdotadot]

anything is worth a try now, i really appreciate the help... anyone else with suggestions?

[Markc]

Sounds like it's not getting enough fuel when the engine is cold. Sort of like the old cars that had a choke to allow more fuel/ less air when starting. After the engine warmed up the choke would fully open.On these cars it's determined by intake air temp. , coolant temp. and oxygen sensors. Could be any one of those sensors.I assume that the engine light doesn't come on?

[loystock]

There could be various causes of your problem - fuel, air and/or ignition. From your description, looks like you're not getting enough fuel. Problem may be due to a weak fuel pump (in tank, accessible from rear seat, pax side), clogged fuel filter (firewall beside brake booster), and/or faulty fuel pressure regulator (top of engine, driver side, near throttle valve. You need a fuel pressure gauge, T-eed downstream of fuel filter to check fuel pressure and leak down.

Turn ignition switch on (do not start) and listen for the fuel pump - if it's humming, OK; if it's noisy/whirring, failing. Pump will shut down automatically after 5 secs. Start the car and then pull out the fuel pump fuse and let the engine die. Crank the engine at least once to ensure fuel line is empty before removing the fuel filter - FIRE HAZARD. Remove the fuel filter and blow air thru it (direction of fuel flow). There should be no or little resistance. Otherwise, replace the fuel filter.

Install the fuel filter and then connect a T-fitting for the fuel pressure gauge. Set ignition switch to ON - fuel pressure should be @ 43 psi. Start engine and fuel pressure should be @ 34 psi. If the fuel pressure is low, the fuel pump is failing. Shutdown the engine. Fuel pressure drops to @ 30 psi and stay there for several minutes and then drop to @ 20 psi. If the pressure drops immediately, fuel pressure regulator is defective.

Check your entire air intake for leak. May also be a good time to clean the MAF sensor with zero-residue contact cleaner of MAF cleaner. Poor grounding can also cause starting issues. There are 2 grounding points from the main engine harness to the engine, besides the air intake plenum, close to cylinder #2. Remove and clean both the ground lugs and grounding point then re-install. Apply dielectric grease to avoid corrosion.

Good luck!

[cdotadot]

yeah it does seem like that too, but of course no check engine light!

[cdotadot]

that sounds like a plan, i really appreciate all the help guys. i guess i got some work to do this weekend! i still don't see why the cold is the main factor in all this, but here goes!

[gjwakim]

so did you try those things out did any of them work

[axd1152]

I have the exact same problem described with my 2000 I30T.Has anyone solved the problem or know the 100% success solution?

[cdotadot]

unfortunately i haven't been able to try these yet. was hit by a drunk driver but i do have the car back now. still doing the same thing but the power steering hose and radiator are both busted now!

[loystock]

It's difficult to have 100% solution as various cars may show similar symptoms but the root cause may be different. Your best bet is to have the car scanned if the CEL is ON or find 'ghost codes' even if the CEL is OFF. A dirty MAF sensor/connector, low fuel pressure (due to dirty filter/failing pump/ FFR-Fuel Pressure Regulator), or poor grounding of the main engine harness may not turn on the CEL.

One has to do fault isolation, starting with the easiest/cheapest step towards the most complicated/expensive resolution. Check for the obvious problems - loose electrical connectors/tubes/hoses.etc. Make sure the battery connections are CLEAN & TIGHT. Make sure the battery is good (>12.5VDC, engine off and with alternator charging, >13.8VDC (spec is 14.1-14.7 VDC)). A failing alternator can cause all sort of problems.

Verify all intake components are clean - air filter, MAF sensor/connector and throttle body. Check for vacuum leak. Remove and clean the main harness grounding points (top of engine besides intake plenum near cylinder #2). there could be a loose connection in the engine harness so wiggling it with the engine running may expose the problem. A good dose of Fuel System Cleaner (Red Line SI-1 @ $7 pr BG44K @ $18) can clean fuel injectors and other engine components.

If the above actions did not fix the problem, clean the IACV Idle Air Control Valve) and EGR valve and tubings and verify operations. Check the fuel pressure (34 PSI with engine running; 43 PSI with Ignition ON, engine ON, auto off in @ 5 secs). One need to SAFELY connect a T-fitting to a fuel pressure gauge between fuel filter and fuel rail/FFR. Make sure the fuel line is empty before breaking it - FIRE HAZARD. Pull the Fuel Pump fuse (driver side Fuse Box inside cabin) while the engine is running until it dies. Crank a couple of time to ensure line is empty.

If problem persisted, then resistance/voltage measurements of sensors and electrical components and additional diagnostics equipment may be required.

For the cost of a single Benjamin Franklin, most common car problems can be fixed - OBD II scanner, multimeter, Fuel Pressure kit, zero-residue contact cleaner or CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner, Dielectric Grease (Permatex and the likes), Carburetor Cleaner + 10 & 12 mm sockets and ratchet drive, common blade and Philips screw drivers. No need to buy fancy scanner or multimeter for as long as they are functional. Harbor Freight and on-line stores provide cheaper alternatives to Sears and the likes - maybe even from garage sale.

[skumpbag215]

sounds like engine thermostat had a volvo 850 same problem took forever to start in the cold changed thermostat and never had this issue again

[I30TDude]

I have a 2000 I30t with 150K miles--exact same problem. Why the temperature dependency? Has anyone discovered the fix for this? I've spent ~$2,000 replacing parts and no fix yet--Nissan and Infiniti say there are no codes when they do the computer testing. I need help!

[loystock]

The problem maybe due to multitude of things - weak battery/poor connections; fuel delivery/injector problem; faulty ignition; faulty coolant temp sensor; dirty or defective MAF sensor.

It would be better if you could give a breakdown of what has been done to your car and which components have been replaced. We can then go from there. I know you've been to the dealership but there is no harm if you could get another OBD II scan from Autozone (it's free).

[chisoxfan]

I have the same problem. I think I have narrowed down the problem, but need help in isolating. The car is rough idling for about 5 to 10 minutes in weather that is cold or damp. It seems there is an electrical connection that gets moist overnight (condensation) or in damp weather. When the engine runs long enough it evaporates the moisture and eliminates the problem. Does anyone have any idea what sensor close to the engine would send false signals when moist? It must be on or near the engine or exhaust as the problem stays away on a warm engine or no dampness.
Replalced following
Bank2 O2
MAF
Air Filter

[loystock]

A lot of the connectors are weatherproof but over time, seals develop cracks or get damaged. Clean the electrical connectors for the MAF sensor, O2 sensor and other connectors accessible to you with Zero-residue Contact Cleaner (or CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner) and then apply Dielectric Grease on the connectors (both parts can be bought from Autozone and the likes). While doing so, check the condition of the connector. Also check and clean the ground points of the main engine harness - near either the intake plenum or oil filler, depending on model year.