Hello Im new to owning my 01 Q and love it to death but just wanted some info

[ssmokeyy]

Will the kinda stuff i was wondering is what stuff should i really do first at changing like fluids and parts to make sure nothing goes wrong? How often do you guys change the transmission fluid? Is the transmission in this truck a strong or weak point of the suv? I'm getting about 16 mpg on the highway and was wondering what would you guys change to get better mpg i all ready put a new fram air filter and change the oil change the rear dif fluid. I used 92 octane gas in her..

will thanks for any help and info you guys give...

again its a 01 qx4 with the 3.5l

[Andrew224]

I don't think many people have had transmission problems. My '01 still runs as good as new.

I do a trans drain and refill every 15K miles. If you're inclined, there is a replaceable filter if you wanted to take the pan down.

There is a front differential that you should change the fluid in (same as rear). Also, it's easy to change the 4WD transfer case fluid (Transmission fluid) too. Use Nissan Matic D fluid.

Change the in-cabin air filter, it's easy...

You can do a search of the topics as extensive write ups are available on the forum here and I don't feel like reinventing the wheel.

Changing those fluids will be a good start to having a trouble free truck for quite a while.

You'll find that this is a well built truck with a pretty strong powertrain, even when abused.

Andrew

[ssmokeyy]

Im wondering what is high miles for the vq35? Can they live as long as the vg30e where my wife's is still going and its at 500k miles and still running strong or start haven problems after 150k? I'm thinking about using amsoil for the full truck. Has any one ever had a problem with this brand? they say there trannie fluid can go 100k so i was thinking about getting it and doing a filter change at the same time and run it for 25k and change it every 25k so the trannie will love me and not break. Im going to do front breaks also and repack the front wheel bearings. What kind of wheel bearing are in the rear and is it easy to repack or replace? Im going to do the spark plugs with ngk iridium plugs and im wondering do i need to change the boots at that time or is it more change the bad ones? Oh and the one thing i was thinking of has any one ever change the fan to electric fans and if so whats the best way to wire them up?

Sorry about asking soo many things but got a lot of stuff on my mind and i read every thing i can about the vq35 and qx4.... Sooo every one knows im going to be trying to swap in a vq35 in my wife's 200sx 1988 it came stock with a vg30e and we want to bring it back and start showing it.... should be fun we have a friend that's doing a rb26dett right now in one and its has cost him 25k to do it and it still doesn't run yet the motor has turn over but got a couple things to fix..... Is the water pump chain driven on these motors? Ok i got in to alldata to find out it is chain driven but in alldata it says take the covers off the water pump and timing chain tension-er and put a stop pin in it and roll the crank back 20 dregs to release the water pump. Now what im wondering is where do you get this stop pin tool and has does the cams no rolls when you take the water pump out kinda thing? I have bad luck with cams rolling on my cars and all data says nothing about to worry about cams moving. how long does a water pump last on these?

Modified by ssmokeyy at 9:40 PM 9/13/2009
Modified by ssmokeyy at 10:15 PM 9/13/2009

[sicwitit]

I'll try and answer some of the stuff here, someone else chime in if I'm incorrect, or don't answer something, either incompletely, or not at all

The VQ35de is one of the best engines Nissan have made, it’s won numerous awards, and just about every Nissan mechanic will tell you these engines are bullet proof!

I have 2 rules I follow when doing fluid changes.

1: is always run what the factory manual tells you to, unless you are a chemist. If the vehicle in question is going to be used within the normal operating parameters of the owner’s manual, there is no need to stray from the manufactures specified fluid needs, and it would be advisable to use the same fluid that the vehicle came with from the factory plant. I also said unless you are a chemist...specifically one that works in organic or thermal chemistry! I say this because I have a "friend" that works for Exxon, who has taught me a ton about petroleum so I understand the chemical makeup a little more than your average AutoZone employee which takes me to my #2 rule

2: If you are going to deviate from the manufactures specifications, only buy a product that has a great reputation within the race community, or can be validated as a premium product. I have been around the race community for almost 20yrs now. From Kart, Circuit, Drag, Motocross, to F3 cars...I know what has worked, and what hasn't. I have 3 brands that I look for if I plan on upgrading my fluids, and each one has in my opinion its own place for a given duty. Those 3 brands would be AmsOil, Redline, and Royal Purple. There are a few more, but finding them can sometimes be difficult for the average consumer, so I'm leaving them out since these 3 are fairly common across the market. I can talk all day about oil, so if you want a long winded lesson, please IM me, I have a pre-written note on each brand, and why I use what I use....which in my Pathy, I run all Royal purple products.

Oh, quick note, I don't know if you have a fav brand of oil filters, but I only run Wix filters if I'm going to run a off the shelf, 1 time use filter, and my Pathy currently has a 2 filter setup....I'm serious when it comes to engine lubrication!!

Next question was Spark plugs....again, run what the factory calls for, or if you feel the need to run a different design of a plug, STAY WITH NGK!! Nuf said. If you have a volt meter, you can test the integrity of your plug wires, if the resistance falls within normal limits and a visual inspection shows no signs of wear and tear, plug em back up and call it a day. If they do, buy a new one, and call it a day.

Wheel bearings I know nothing about, so I'm leaving it alone

As for brakes, if you got some cash, buy some DPA rotors, and a good pad, and feel good you bought a quality product. If you don't have the cash, buy some Brembo blanks, and a factory pad, and know you’re going to have to replace the rotors again when they eventually warp. Sorry, that’s just how it goes.

Fans - I have to ask, why would you want to replace the factory fan? I would only consider upgrading it, if the factory fan is operating within its normal parameters, but was not effectively compensating for heat, and all other measures to combat heat had already been addressed. Again, I have an uncle who builds some desert runners in So-Cal, so if you want more info on battling heat, IM me.

Everything else I can’t really answer, I've never opened up a VG35, or have not run one into the ground to determine the life expectancy of each component you are questioning...like I said before, I'd go with what the factory manual says....funny how I keep referring to it, eh?

Just a side note, I'm wondering why your friend has spent $25K on a RB swap, and it’s not running? I would have started questioning things about $15K ago, I'm curious?

[ssmokeyy]

Well he has to have a lot of custom work done and if you pay 8 grand for the motor and plus money needed for parts to link it up to the car the price runs up.. he was the first to do a rb20det in the us also soo he will get this build done...

anyways im going to get amsoil give a try and see how q likes it.

where is a good place to get dpa rotors?

im going to be using either hawk suv brake pads or metal masters not sure yet.

Yeah im not going to do the fan mod any more i read up on the hole fan thing and it won't help mpg witch is the only reason why i was doing it... I love my q but i feel she can get better than 16 mpg i know she can reach to 22 i just know it.... And the only spark plugs i use are ngk's i have them in my integra and in my wife's 200sx

What year of path or q are you guys using for the rotors from dba on the 01 qx4?

Does any one know a model number so i can find them?
Modified by ssmokeyy at 11:25 PM 9/14/2009

[Empty V]

I put DBA Slotted Rotors 629SL and 629SR on my 01 QX4 with EBC Yellow Stuff Pads. The combo works great but I think when I'm in for new pads I'll go for zero dust ones. My pads squeal when they're cold for the first compression, after that they're quiet. EBC was very honest and upfront about this every time I spoke with them. Call up Steve @ Man-A-Fre for the rotors and tell him Billy with the QX4 sent you. I got them for $119/ea.

Billy

[ssmokeyy]

Are you sure its not the 626sl and 626sr rotors i dont seem to find the 629's any where on there website?

[sicwitit]

I'll be calling him for sure for my rotors, I still have not upgraded mine.

The yellows will squeel when cold, they are a pretty aggressive pad, so its to be expected. you should hear my brakes on my lexus when I go to the track, full metalic pads on carbon steel rotors! yeah....very loud indeed

[carnal_c30]

Transmissions- The transmissions on the qx4 are pretty solid except for a TSB out on a shift flare between 1-2 2-3 shifts when the trans is cold.I wouldnt say the transmission is a weak point but anything heavy and 4wd like the QX needs extra attention to the transmission. If it ever does go bad its such a PITA to replace that often its not even worth it. On both my Qx4s the first thing I did was a transmission service and a fat Hayden transmission cooler and I havent had a problem (Qx4 #1 was up at 200k miles almost)

the VQ35s are solid motors and have just had problems with Mass Airflow Sensors and the Ignition coils primarily. My VQ35 at 165k miles has had none of these problems and runs like a champ

[ssmokeyy]

Did you add a transmission oil cooler on top of the stock one or just not use the stock one and add one huge one on the front? And i have amsoils on the way for the transmission and power steering pump so i hope this will help with the heat.... i always give the q 5 mins to warm up i hope that enough.. when winter hits i will give it 10 mins to warm up with the remote start.

[carnal_c30]

I run the transmission cooler inline with the stock one, the WD21 Pathfinders had a problem of the trans fluid getting dirty and plugging up the lines and grenading the transmission but the newer R50s dont seem to have that problem.It just adds peace of mind to me in case I ever do towing or ever fail to avoid stop and go or city traffic.

[ssmokeyy]

What are good brands to get for oil coolers? Whats a good size for this transmission?

[sicwitit]

Earls, Fluidyne, B&M, brakeprecision, and Perma-cool are all good brands. Here is a link to get started

http://www.summitracing.com/se...7cAsc

[lino]

I have a B&M. That's what most of the guys recommended when I asked for their advice.

[Empty V]

Are you sure its not the 626sl and 626sr rotors i dont seem to find the 629's any where on there website?

Here's links for the DBA 629SL and DBA 629SR rotors. As Sicwitit said the EBC Yellow Stuff pads do squeal upon the first 2 depressions or so but that's it. I'm really stoked on the combo.

Billy

[ssmokeyy]

Does any one know the thread of the transmission cooler lines? im just going to thread a tube on it so i can put hose on the line for the transmission cooler. Is there one size better than a other for this transmission or is it any thing is better than nothing?