Hellllllp. Y33 spark plug removal

[5zigen]

Okay so... today I got to changing my plugs. But... on the left side, there are these two darn hoses that are in my way. I don't know if I should take them off because they don't budge at all AND the FSM (thanks Wes!) pic shows them still there.



Do I pull them or not?

Also... someone help me on the right side, I have no idea what to remove.



Thanks

[DAEDALUS]

Your car's a bit different than the 45, but those 2 hoses are there as well. They're fuel hoses. I just leave them in place and slide the cover out from under them.

Not what you want to hear, but just remove what's in your way. Intake, for one, and emissions stuff too if it's like the 45.

[5zigen]

No way for me to just slide it out... the radiator overflow hose and water outlet hose get in the way. Unless I bend the cover like mad and try to get it out that way.

For the intake... do I just take off everything that connects to it? I don't want to hurt the MAF in this process...

[maxnix]

Just like the FSM says, remove cold air induction before filter box and hoses and resonators going to throttle body on driver's side.

Cover on passenger side will slide out fine without disconnecting fuel hoses.

Read my post under coil pack connectors. Give a call if you have to.
Modified by maxnix at 1:31 PM 6/5/2005

[FarFetched]

Maxnix is right, slide that cover (wiggle it out) and you ar in business. Driver side, take air intake ttube out piece by piece and you'll be set to go!Read FSM and remember how to do it, but get creative use your imagination! Cheers!

[5zigen]

I got the plugs out... a very fun job albeit the fact that I was left with raw fingers and a cut in my index finger. I think I did very good for a first timer.

The thing is, I don't have a torque wrench... what can I do to make sure the plugs are in correctly? Or should I wait for my friend to bring his over?

[DAEDALUS]

Don't the NGK plug boxes have tightening instructions that don't involve torque? Like maybe finger tight and then another 1/2 - 3/4 turn.

[maxnix]

The boxes do, but the access to #7 is such that I highly recommend a torque wrench be used, especially for someone not accustomed to tightening into aluminum. Be sure to use a high temperature lube on the threads.

Best bet is to get the breaking torque wrench.

[DAEDALUS]

By the time you need a torque wrench you're well beyond the point of worrying about stripping the head. The head will strip if the plug is cross-threaded from the start. Once the plug is fully threaded and compressing the crush washer you could likely apply over 100 ft-lbs without the head stripping.

[maxnix]

Once the plug is fully threaded and compressing the crush washer you could likely apply over 100 ft-lbs without the head stripping.

Maybe, but I wouldn't want to bet on it. Nor would I want to remove that plug the next time!

[FarFetched]

OK guys you can torque it to 100Lbs, but then you won't be able to get 'em out w/o damaging heads or leaving treads in the head (broken) I've installed "head" sleeves in the past. Perfect torque 14-22 ft.lb (you can check it) . Good 'Ol method is hand tighten sp.plugs and (if with crash washer) tighten 1/2-to-3/4 turn. Use antiseize. Cheers!

[maxnix]

That's what it says on the box.

I like 18 ft./lbs. with high temperature anti-seize lubricant.

[5zigen]

What's anti seize?

Is it okay if I put in the plugs without it? It's basically impossible for me to go out and buy anything since my Q is my only commuter car and the rest of the family is out during the day.

Everyones making me nervous... I'm starting to feel that I've done some damage to the engine because it was such a struggle to get the plugs out.

[DAEDALUS]

Anti-seize is a grease with particles in it to prevent the plug from getting frozen over the next 60k. Kind of like mini ball bearings for the threads. Removal is sometimes a real pain without it. But if you don't plan to still own the car the next time it needs plugs then you hopefully won't need to worry about it.

[5zigen]

Okay, got the plugs in but did not use anti-seize... and then the car saw a startup after about 2 weeks of being garaged!

Startup sounds so smooth now! Engine was soo loud and whining sounding at startup before swap but now its a smooth, quiet sound. Acceleration is now silkier. The entire car runs very fine now, just like how the Q45 was meant to be. Also that damn misfiring/shuddering has gone away.

When I get the time, I will go out and buy anti seize and pull the plugs again and apply it and put them back in, does that sound okay?

Just thinking ahead, if the engine block threads DO get damaged what happens from there?

[maxnix]

When I get the time, I will go out and buy anti seize and pull the plugs again and apply it and put them back in, does that sound okay?

Just thinking ahead, if the engine block threads DO get damaged what happens from there?

This is where it gets tricky. You have already compressed the hollow washers, so now that extra ½ to ¾ turn is resulting in how much torque? Use a good torque wrench when reinstalling.

If you cross threaded it (surely you would know), then a re-tap or helicoil would be necessary. I wouldn't worry about this unless you forced something.

[elwesso]

I honestly wouldnt go back and pull the plugs.. If you use lubricant to reinstall them i think thats probably OK..

Main reason they have a 60k life is to be safe against that kind of thing..... most other cars that use platinums recommend 100k.

[FarFetched]

[Quote »Main reason they have a 60k life is to be safe against that kind of thing..... most other cars that use platinums recommend 100k.[/quote]Have you ever seen Crown Victoria (police) spark plugs (platinum 100Kmiles life) after about 20-30K miles of service? I bet you would have fainted if you did There are many different factors that affect life of of a spark plug!Idling is the biggest "killer" of it. Other thing is when you compress that crush washer, next time there isn't gonna be as tight seal as the first time! Gotta do it right the first time! Cheers!