heavy power steering when warmed up, as in no PS when warm

[ScottJackson]

I checked the solenoid on the steering rack and it has the 4-6 ohms resistance and it does click very lightly when I put 12v to the terminal. Should it be a loud click like a ford starter solenoid or is a very light click a verification that this isn't the issue? I also do get 4.4V at terminal 7 of the diagnostic port so this would mean that's OK too, correct? Since this is an active Q, if the pump is bad, I'll need a pump from another active Q, right? The power steering works fine when it's cold but as soon as it warms up there's nothing but muscle building exercises. Sometimes the steering seems to kick in a little around town if I give it a little gas to get the rpms up. The belt is tight and not slipping. Anyone have this problem? The pump isn't leaking or making any strange noises and I've replaced the fluid.

[ScottJackson]

also, the steering doesn't get easier when not moving and I rev the motor. It must have something to do with vehicle speed when I blip the throttle and the steering works a bit. If it could be the little solenoid on the steering rack, I'll go grab the one off my parts car 91 Q and give it a shot but it's not in a convenient place and it's bound to be a messy job so I haven't tried that yet.

[gniknave]

I had this problem and found the pressure hose was leaking (that's the one with the foil around it right?). It's not easy to see the leak if you have a skidplate. You might want to remove the skidplate (if you have it) and check around the reservoir for a leak. From what I understand, it's pretty rare to come across a leaky pump. However if you do have a leaky pump, and you don't need one specifically for an active model, I happen to have one that's been laying around for too long that I want to get rid of.

[ScottJackson]

sorta a bump to the top, sorta an update. I took the solenoid off and disassembled it. It was clean and the plunger was working as it should when I gave it 12volts. So I filled it with DexronIII again and the power steering is still defunct when warm. I notice the reservoir has a filter built into it along with the plastic strainer where you pour the fluid into it. Is there any way that a line could be obstructed with something? Anyone have a good idea of what to check? Will I just have to gather the $$$ and take it to a dealer to have them pressure test the pump?

[ScottJackson]

ok, please someone let me know if my logic is out of line. I sucked most of the steering fluid from the reservoir as the car was running and the pump started to make the whirring noise since it was getting air in the system. With the fluid level low, I could see a lot of flow into the reservoir. This flow is approximately the same if the car is warm or cold. Since the steering goes away when it warms up, I believe the issue is in the steering rack. since the steering works great when cold, I don't think it could be the little electronic steering control box. I recon that one of the rack rings and/or seals is shot that is letting the fluid bypass from one chamber to the other inside the rack when warm. The steering rack doesn't leak but I suppose if the ring is bad but the seals are OK, it would lose steering as it is and still not leak out fluid. Looks like I'll be swapping the rack from my 91 Q into this 92. Is there anything important to know? I intend to get new tie rods, boots, and rack bushings when I do the swap. Is a lift required to change out the steering racks? It appears I can just disconnect the two main lines, disconnect the u-joint, take out the bolts where the rack bushings go, pop out the tie rod ends, and take it out. Is a floor jack and jack stands enough to get the job done (of course along with sockets/ratchet, combination wrenches, and pickle fork with hammer)?

[rwhyde]

Scott,

I've heard of the electronic contol for the PS going bad and causing just such symptoms. You need a FSM to do the diagnostics but it is supposed to be up under the dash next to the steering column on J30's (my car) and if you rap the dash sharply or the unit when it is in failure and it kicks in for a second or two then you have found the problem. It is supposed to be solder joints in the unit cracking and failing only when hot. Just take the unit apart and heat each joint until it melts a little but don't overdo it. This same thing happesn to headlight relays in J30's anyway.Good Luck,Wayne Hyde

[ScottJackson]

thanks for the tip. I did check it over and all the soldering points looked good. I did go over them with my soldering iron anyway. I did all the checks in the FSM and it all checked good. I guess it's down to pressure testing the pump and from there it's either a pump or steering rack.

[squeefoo]

I just started running my car, since it was parked since last winter. Last fall the PS worked fine , now it it acts sluggish with higher wheel effort, the fluid (M1 ATF changed 10K MI ago) is suddenly dark and slightly burnt smelling, it also makes a slight hum now, and it was just fine last fall. No foaming or leaks, belt new and tight, but it does have 160K on it.

So what I find I will pass on, I have a project or two to finish first in the next couple of days.

[blakester3]

Just had a similar problem repaired..took it to the dealer(could barely turn the wheel..very heavy)..thought it might be the solenoid..wrong..turns out it was the u-joint ..1 new u-joint later... everything works as it should..hope this helps..blake

[ScottJackson]

did the U-joint work easy and smooth when the motor was cool and then suddenly get very difficult when it warmed up?