Heavy and inconsistant rotor warpage

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
Projex240
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I have been over my brakes again and again. I have replaced the rotors and the pads 3 times since doing my z32 brakes on my S14. I am not too bad on my brakes, but i certainly use them as they were intended. I like to brake late, and hard to accelerate as much as possible before a turn, but i am having a hard time keeping the rotors from warping. It gets soo bad now that when driving on the street just tapping the brakes to slwo from 70-ish, the whole car shutters. Its cusk, and its very unsettling when behind the wheel.My question is this. I have used stock rotors both times i replaced them. Brand new ones. Could that be my problem? SHould I invest in some aftermarket rotors? Whatn kinds? Brembo? Stoptech? Can you cryo treat rotors for strength? Is it better to go for a bigger upgrade like the supra TT underground kit? WHat kinds of pads are best for stopping power and rotor freindly?I know its more than one question, but im really wanting to fix this problem in a more permanant way.

Thanks,

Josh


AmIdYfReAk
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well obviously if you like breaking late, this means that you are breaking hard before you start the entrance of the turn.

This kind of driving would most definitely warp out ANY rotor's in due time, Especially if you are using a Different compound Pad.

take a look at some of the Brembo Vented Cross drilled and slotted rotors ( yes, all 3. ) and they SHOULD Help you out a little,

if not then i would look into getting some sort of rotor cooling solution.

Veriest1
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Underground Motorsports uses Supra rotors in their big brake kits. They accomplish this by grinding about 2mm off the inside of the calipers.

------------- pad x|rotor here|x <= Slanted area pad -------------

They grind on the x's and to the out side to clear the Supra rotors greater diameter. I'm not sure if they're really thicker than the Z's and I'm fairly certain they require a 30mm set up as well.The greater surface area may help.

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Exar-Kun
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Rotor warping is not just caused by heat..if you anre't using the correct shims on the pad, caliper clips/springs, or lubing the piston and caliper slides, it will mean inconsistent pressure and vibration when braking...

which can warp the rotor.

I would check to ensure installation was donce correctly with all the hardware, etc before I looked at buying new rotors all the time..and I would take a hard look at what pads you are using. They are not all created equal.

the Z32 brakes have more than enough heat capacity for ANY 240's braking, regardless of how heavy, for street use.

-Chet

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Dori Dori
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If you are using aluminum z32 calipers, they have been known to warp in some cases...maybe the caliper(s) is/are warped? It might be worth it to invest in another pair...if the situation continues, sell the extra set for what you paid. At least you'll know it's not the caliper.

Projex240
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I bought these calipers loaded and rebuilt. They have morris ceramic pads, but i am looking into getting a better set of pads. I also noticed that the heavy shuttering doesnt happen all the time, and it started once it began to get colder outside. I think it may have something to do with the rapid heating and then the rapid cooling(i have no fender panels in--cools the brakes quite well) that may be causing it.

-Josh

Nismo_Freak
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Dori Dori wrote:If you are using aluminum z32 calipers, they have been known to warp in some cases...maybe the caliper(s) is/are warped? It might be worth it to invest in another pair...if the situation continues, sell the extra set for what you paid. At least you'll know it's not the caliper.
I'm sorry but I've never seen this in my experience. I've known people to eat through 6 Skyline rotors using Hawk blues driving the living piss out of the Z32 around a track and never once has he developed a "warped caliper".

I would check your hubs for trueness... it wouldn't be the first time I've seen a bad hub cause rotor warp.

Projex240
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OK, ill check the hubs. Or have them checked rather. Other than that--any idea what else it could be?

240marcuSX
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i read the most interesting article on brakes yesterday, click the link, and then click "club racing" on the side.

http://members.aol.com/odrscca/index.htm

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Dori Dori
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Nismo_Freak wrote:
I'm sorry but I've never seen this in my experience. I've known people to eat through 6 Skyline rotors using Hawk blues driving the living piss out of the Z32 around a track and never once has he developed a "warped caliper".

I would check your hubs for trueness... it wouldn't be the first time I've seen a bad hub cause rotor warp.
Well, the rumor pool consensus is that Nissan dropped the aluminum calipers because of this. Who knows, I was just throwing out my $.02.

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Exar-Kun
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Yes, it is one reason. But that was on a 3400lb Z32...with 300hp and a heavier front end.

unless you bought them warped...

I would still check the shims, pads and lubrication of the pistons and slides first, it's the cheapest route to double check or replaces/redo before you start spending big dollars on wheel/hub bearings, another set of calipers, etc.

IF that all checks out (also check the pad itself for cracking, etc...) then take a look at the things Dori and Nismo_freak have suggested.

-Chet


Nismo_Freak
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Exar-Kun wrote:Yes, it is one reason. But that was on a 3400lb Z32...with 300hp and a heavier front end.

unless you bought them warped...
My explination was with the aluminum calipers being used on a "3400lb Z32" in heavy track usage.

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Dori Dori
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Well, assuming that the rumor is true, it's illogical to assume that every caliper is subject to warping.

Since the thread starter started having the problems once the calipers were installed, assuming the rumors are true, he could have purchased a set of warped calipers.



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