HEATING Not Too Strong

Post by **dannym** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:46 am

I find that the heating in the car is not very strong. Anyone else feel that way? The HVAC functions all work as far as I can tell. The coolant was just replaced.

Post by **Q45denver** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 10:43 am

What year is yours. The 94-96 have a known problem with the flaps that seems to show up on high mile cars.

Post by **dannym** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 10:53 am

Q45denver wrote:What year is yours. The 94-96 have a known problem with the flaps that seems to show up on high mile cars.

Sorry, I forgot to mention that my car is a 1991.

Post by **elwesso** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 11:02 am

Do the segment check on the climate controller... Self diagnosis...

Otherwise check the thermostat... What does it do when you jack the heat all the way up to 85...? Remember it is a climate controlled device, so once it gets warm it will cool the air so it doesnt get too hot.

Post by **dannym** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 12:03 pm

elwesso wrote:Do the segment check on the climate controller... Self diagnosis...

Otherwise check the thermostat... What does it do when you jack the heat all the way up to 85...? Remember it is a climate controlled device, so once it gets warm it will cool the air so it doesnt get too hot.

I performed the Self-Diagnosis Test and the only thing that the 2 things I saw that were not right were:

a) The Fluorescent display tube did not light up when I did: STEP 1: Checks L.E.D.s and segments. That is the little dot shown in the illustration on Page HA-68 My display can be irratic at times where the digits start racing in high-speed continuous loop and the display can even go completely blank at times even though all the functions still work as usual.

Here is a picture of the display. Note the temperature:

b) After performing STEP 2: Checks each sensor circuit for open or short circuitfrom Page HA-69, I got a Code No. 25 - Sunload sensor.This test was performed during the day, but not in direct sunlight. So I don't know if it's faulty or if the conditions were not optimum for the test.

elwesso wrote:
Otherwise check the thermostat...

I haven't checked my thermostat, but the radiator was replaced by the previous owner.

elwesso wrote:
What does it do when you jack the heat all the way up to 85...?

The heat comes on, but the car is not warm enough even at 85 and full blast.

Post by **elwesso** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 12:08 pm

I think i know whats wrong but I want to prove it first..... I dont think i can explain it well by typing (or im too lazy)... give me a call at 765-621-8336...

anytime tonite or tomorrow.

Post by **Jesda** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 2:17 pm

The error for the sunload sensor is known to come up even when its just fine.

When was the heater core last flushed? Do the heater hoses by the firewall feel hot?

Post by **CoastyAV8R** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 2:36 pm

I'm going through the same thing with my 94. The self diagnostic is good so today I checked my heater core and it's fine with great water flow. I'm back to chasing down, what is most likely a heater door that isn't opening. Now if I could figure out how to get the dash apart to look, I would be set. The FSM doesn't give instructions on this so I'm off to engineer my own means.

Post by **elwesso** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 2:42 pm

you mean like this??

Post by **dannym** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 2:43 pm

Jesda wrote:
When was the heater core last flushed?

9 years ago / 50 000 miles according to the service records.

Jesda wrote: Do the heater hoses by the firewall feel hot?

Not sure. I'll have to check and get back to you.

Post by **CoastyAV8R** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 2:57 pm

That's why I like Smartasses. Thanks Wes, I didn't look in the BF (body & frame) section. I'm off to the garage...

The heater core is pretty easy to check. The hoses are easy to get to and all I did was pull them off and run water through the core, took 10 minutes. I was trying to determine if one hose was hotter than the other, but they both felt hot but I wasn't sure if it was from hot water flowing through the core or convection from the warm engine. To verify I yanked the hoses off, which apparently is one helluva lot easier than the ripping the dash apart. Anybody got a steering wheel puller? Who the hell ever came up with that design? You have to pull the steering wheel off to remove the dash face plate?

Post by **elwesso** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 2:59 pm

you better be off to the garage with your camera...... Id love to see some pics of you doing that on your Q...

Post by **Q451990** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 4:47 pm

CoastyAV8R wrote:Anybody got a steering wheel puller? Who the hell ever came up with that design? You have to pull the steering wheel off to remove the dash face plate?

I don't think it's necessary to remove the wheel. Just remove the cladding and unbolt the steering column (two large bolts down under the wheel. I think you should be able to get to everything then...

Heath

Post by **JebsNYCQ45** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 5:38 pm

damn thats crazy...what we do in the name of love for our Q.....dont feel bad i would've had the dash off too, at this point

Post by **Q451990** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:38 pm

And that was just to install the alarm, remote start, MP3 player, and V1 radar detector. Decided to remove the seats to steam clean everything and it esclated from there! Pretty much did the same thing to my truck trying to get the grunge and cigarette smoke out - and find a small leak

Post by **DrewQ45** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 2:17 am

Q451990 wrote:
I don't think it's necessary to remove the wheel. Just remove the cladding and unbolt the steering column (two large bolts down under the wheel. I think you should be able to get to everything then...

Heath

I actually had to do this just last night when replacing the Q's clock with an ebay unit. Dropping the steering column is a good idea but is not a must since there is more work involved getting to those screws. You must however, remove the steering/ignition plastic cladding. I think six silver screws in all.

Under the cladding and sitting on top of the ignition is a small white plastic unit which I think contains some type of soleniod. (directly above where you insert the key) Remove this by pulling a few small screws and let it hang.... this should give you the clearance you need to remove the console trim. You'll still have to bend it somewhat to avoid ripping the vinyl on the ignition mechanism. PITA job.

...Drew....

Post by **dannym** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 8:37 am

DrewQ45 wrote:
I actually had to do this just last night when replacing the Q's clock with an ebay unit.

...Drew....

Did you replace the clock for a different one or the same one you had before, because it wasn't working?

Post by **CoastyAV8R** » Sun Dec 11, 2005 3:48 pm

I didn't pull anything off the steering column. The dash cladding just popped off with a slight yank.

I found the problem with mine is the linkage to lower right hand heater air door was missing. I assume it fell off, but damn if I can find it. When I flip the heater door by hand, it works like a champ but I can't drive around with all the guts ripped out of the dash.

Post by **dannym** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 4:44 am

What kind of sheep skin covers do you have and do they fit well?

Post by **CoastyAV8R** » Mon Dec 12, 2005 2:27 pm

I'm not sure who made them, but they are real sheepskin. As far as fitting goes, these fit really well but I notice with seat covers, you really have to spend the time getting them to fit well and on this car, it was a pain in the butt. Did you get your heater fixed? Mine was missing a piece of linkage to the heater air mix door.

HEATING Not Too Strong

HEATING Not Too Strong

Re: HEATING Not Too Strong (dannym)

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Re: (Jesda)

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