heating issue..

[Alastaplat]

I replased my radiator with a new one, and all the hoses to go with it, and I'm still have heating issues . I can't seem to find exactly what it is though thats making it over heat. It doesn't seem to be loosing any of the coolant cause the tank is still full to the max line where I keep it. Anyone have the same issue?? if so could you help out with what you did to fix it.. thanks

[sleepyeyes87]

There should be a 10mm bolt on top of your intake manifold with a sticker taht says, "never open while hot" It's a bleeder for the coolant system. While the car is cool, loosen it. Crank the car and after the thermostat opens, loosen it until bubbles come out. Once it stops bubbling, tighten it back up and all the air should be out of the system. Make sure not to pull it out all the way our you'll have a warm shower. Good luck

[94_240sx]

I had exact same problem 2 days ago. It was overheating, but burping really bad. I replaced thermostat/water pump and started the car. Coolant was coming out from radiator and filling the coolant overflow tank to the neck. Guess what? I should have done it on flat surface. Front was bit lower than the rear. Member tjmhillz helped me with water pump and he had an issue with coolant bleeding too. Check this thread...

zerothread?id=196476

[94_240sx]

There should be a 10mm bolt on top of your intake manifold with a sticker taht says, "never open while hot" It's a bleeder for the coolant system.

FSM said remove the bolt, fill the coolant up to the radiator neck and close the bolt and cap that's what I did... I must have done something wrong...

Alastaplat,Make sure your thermostat opens up... I'm sure it does though.

[biggie]

KAs are the worst for getting air bubbles. The best thing to do (on top of bleeding with the screw) is to sit the front up on jack stands or use a funnel on top of the radiator(and fill it up where coolant is sitting in the funnel). This will get the air to go to the highest point. Also use a pumping action on the top rad hose to work out bubbles.

[94_240sx]

KAs are the worst for getting air bubbles. The best thing to do (on top of bleeding with the screw) is to sit the front up on jack stands or use a funnel on top of the radiator(and fill it up where coolant is sitting in the funnel). This will get the air to go to the highest point. Also use a pumping action on the top rad hose to work out bubbles.

Thanks for the info. I still have some air in the system, so I'll do that...

[Alastaplat]

what if it isn't air bubbles that I have in my system? could it be anything else.... I'm just trying to get rid of this problem cause I just spent a lot for a reconditioned motor because of that problem. that would really suck if that happened again, you know

[94_240sx]

what if it isn't air bubbles that I have in my system? could it be anything else.... I'm just trying to get rid of this problem cause I just spent a lot for a reconditioned motor because of that problem. that would really suck if that happened again, you know

According to FSM, you need 6.7liter(1.77gallon/7-1/8 US qt) with reservior tank. How much did you put? You need good amount of coolant to keep your engine cool. If you have too much air in the system, coolant won't circulate enough.

If it's not air bubbles, all I can think of is thermostat not opening up. It should open up at 170F(=76.5C). When was the last time you replaced thermostat and/or water pump?
Modified by 94_240sx at 3:30 AM 10/6/2006

[Alastaplat]

water pump was replaced right before I got it, you can tell it's brand new. and the thermostat.... God know?? but I did go out and get one today, I just got to figure out how it put it in, I'm not a big mechanic lol

[94_240sx]

Here you go. It's even easier than water pump. Torque spec is 12-14ft-lb. Well, you have to drain colant again since you have to disconnect upper radiator hose on the engine side. Good luck!!!

[biggie]

I'd basically recommend changing the thermo everytime the coolant is drained. They tend to stick after a coolant change for some reason.

[94_240sx]

I'd basically recommend changing the thermo everytime the coolant is drained. They tend to stick after a coolant change for some reason.

I replaced thermostat with OEM unit recently. I didn't go for Nismo thermostat which opens up at 149F. I was wondering what's the benefit on that, and if Nismo thermostat is better, why Nissan made OEM one opens up at 170F. Just curious...

[biggie]

I replaced thermostat with OEM unit recently. I didn't go for Nismo thermostat which opens up at 149F. I was wondering what's the benefit on that, and if Nismo thermostat is better, why Nissan made OEM one opens up at 170F. Just curious...

The lower temp if just for high temp areas, it'll help keep it a little cooler. Also for racing you would want it to open a little sooner. Autozone/Advance have some that will open around 150/160 and they are a ton cheaper than Nismo.

[94_240sx]

The lower temp if just for high temp areas, it'll help keep it a little cooler. Also for racing you would want it to open a little sooner. Autozone/Advance have some that will open around 150/160 and they are a ton cheaper than Nismo.

Oh. okay. I'll try low temp one next time then...

[94_240sx]

water pump was replaced right before I got it, you can tell it's brand new. and the thermostat.... God know?? but I did go out and get one today, I just got to figure out how it put it in, I'm not a big mechanic lol

BTW, to check your thermostat, start the engine and keep checking your lower radiator hose. If it stays cool too long, it means thermostat got stuck, so water can't circulate... Once thermostat opens up, you will feel it gets hot fast.