heater core bypass.

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
liquid_cool
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was pokin around the forums and only found mention of the heater core being bypassed...has anyone done this?..if so ..how and can ya post some pics or mail me with em. ([email protected]) thanks in advance.


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Chris28
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I was thinking about doing this the other night actually. The 96's lines don't originate from where the 92's do so I was thinking about just looping them together, but I decided to run to advance and get some flexible hose. Wouldn't you just get like a u shaped piece of hose to loop them together? For the earlier engines it wouldn't be a u shape, but same principle.

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motoman399
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why would you bypass? you dont want a heater?

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-RJ-
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if its a summer car I wouldnt see it necessary. Its just dead weight

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motoman399
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ya but if its just a summer car you shouldnt worry about the 6 pounds that it weighs. lol i love my heater and ac and am not getting rid of it for anything.

renegade141
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You mind as well leave it alone unless you really have nothing else to do.

The heater core is aluminum, small and hold like half a litre of coolant. How much weight do you think your saving??

And if you ever overheat, you can turn the heat on to help cool you engine slightly.

So no need to get rid of the heater core/bypass it.

But if you do want to bypass it, then yeh join those two hoses together that goes into the firewall.

liquid_cool
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motoman399 wrote:why would you bypass? you dont want a heater?
my car is gutted for a track car man..no heater requierd..besides its friggin 125 in the shade durring summer..screw that heater..that and the dash was 50 lbs of dead weight!...lol..na..i dont need one...im allso tryin to work around the vacume lines and simplify em a bit. if ya wana see how drastic i went with the dash..look here in my pic's on myspace

http://www.myspace.com/liquid_cool_ka24de

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i240sx
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take out heater core..bypass the hose in the engine bay.i bypass mine because the heater core was leaking.cold as hell and no defrost....here is a drawing... hope it help buddy


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Chris28
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Dude is that the mad tyte dri-flow 100 hp air filter in your drawing? I'm jealous.

I'm thinking about looping mine shut. The s13 core inlet and outlet are 5/16 where as the s14 intake mani's intake and outlet are 3/4.

Is it bad to have a plastic 3/4 to 5/16 adapter? Will it melt?

liquid_cool
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i allmost have it figured out to bypass it from the inlet side and not back by the firewall...this will allow for the removal of that nasty looking vacume/water metal bracket..cleaning up the intake area clutter allot!..when i nail down..what vacumelines go where..what IAAC crap goes where..then rework it..ill post pics in my normal spots...im going to bypass as much of the BS as i can and still leave the car clean and functional.

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Chris28
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I can't wait until I have another 240, one for creature comforts and one with the barebones for it to run. Nothing except maybe power steering.

But again will the coolant melt plastic?

Vegascorbin
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Take your plastic and place it in a pan of boiling water for ten minutes. If the plastic did not melt /deform then you should be good to go. It all depends on the type of plastic you have.

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i240sx
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Chris28 wrote:I can't wait until I have another 240, one for creature comforts and one with the barebones for it to run. Nothing except maybe power steering.

But again will the coolant melt plastic?
i don't recommend plastic...

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i240sx
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Chris28 wrote:Dude is that the mad tyte dri-flow 100 hp air filter in your drawing? I'm jealous.

I'm thinking about looping mine shut. The s13 core inlet and outlet are 5/16 where as the s14 intake mani's intake and outlet are 3/4.

Is it bad to have a plastic 3/4 to 5/16 adapter? Will it melt?
yes it is...100hp air filter proven...

a_ahmed
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liquid_cool wrote:i allmost have it figured out to bypass it from the inlet side and not back by the firewall...this will allow for the removal of that nasty looking vacume/water metal bracket..cleaning up the intake area clutter allot!..when i nail down..what vacumelines go where..what IAAC crap goes where..then rework it..ill post pics in my normal spots...im going to bypass as much of the BS as i can and still leave the car clean and functional.
Any progress on this? I want to see what you did because I am just in the midst of doing this with my car.

I removed all the dash junk minus the heater core. I mean all the plastic covers, fans, etc... its aaaaalllllll gone, but the heater core is just hanging there (lame). I want it GONE...

Also gary I love your photos of well everything you were doing including the dash lol. I cut up the stock dash down to 8lbs.... but i rather it be 1lb lol... but I suppose I'll have to end up doing what you did with the thin aluminum and make something custom. I want to get rid of the bar and replace it with a proper cage. It's unbelivable how much dead weight there was/is at the dash... so much front end weight...

Anywho thanks to everyone addresed...

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the converted
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Follow the lines from the firewall back to where they T off the engine and just plug them. Done deal.

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cowboyrps13
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i removed everything too. once i get my engine back together im just gonna loop everything on the motor the best i can. it will be out of the car though so it should be pretty easy. im also thinking about getting rid of the dash alltogether. i really just need a place to mount gauges


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the converted
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You don't have to loop them, and in fact it is better if you don't, because it will put more coolant through the radiator.

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GO240
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the converted wrote:You don't have to loop them, and in fact it is better if you don't, because it will put more coolant through the radiator.
yeah but this also creates more places for air to hide and if you loop them thats less coolant you have to buy so you won't be tempted to say hay maybe i'll just fill the rest with water when you know you need to create a balance if you want more coolant get a bigger radiator and i'm sure liquid has one

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the converted
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Well, I'm failing to see how plugging up the metal tubes would have more coolant in it than running a hose. Also, coolant won't make your car cool any better than just running water, It just keeps it from freezing and corroding the inside of the engine and radiator.

liquid_cool
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cowboyrps13 wrote:i removed everything too. once i get my engine back together im just gonna loop everything on the motor the best i can. it will be out of the car though so it should be pretty easy. im also thinking about getting rid of the dash alltogether. i really just need a place to mount gauges
autometer sells roll cage mounts..for guages..lol..thats what i did...as for the bypasses..i have bypassed all of the crap on the intake many..heater core..egr..iacv...vacume lines..its all clean now...my myspace has picks of it..feel free to look and if ya have any questions..just PM me or drom me a line at ..... [email protected] ...myspace is the best place to get me to answer you thou..ill allso..take pics and post em there at your request's if you need em to compleate your ride..good luck..looking clean so far.

Redman240
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Car: 1989 240sx coupe ka24e

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Hello iam new to this forum but iam interested in the heater core bypass someone have pics or a idea of weather plug it would be better or looping it? and if so wat about the the hardline can I remove them all if I cap everthing or they still have to be there. just a fyi iam running 1989 240sx coupe with ka24e rebuilt and took out the ac, heater core, vents, everything I could lose without running halfass. much thank for any help.

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the converted
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Just cap the lines. If you loop them, you have coolant from the hot side just looping back to the cool side of the engine. It's also less plumbing to deal with.

Redman240
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thank you I have look at four different forums and 2 full days of looking from google to bing trying to see which would be better cause common sense says don't mix hot water with cold crack something

RBr0nz3
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Why would you bypass your heater core? i'll tell you why because some people don't have $178.00 bucks for a new one..

RBr0nz3
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the converted wrote:Just cap the lines. If you loop them, you have coolant from the hot side just looping back to the cool side of the engine. It's also less plumbing to deal with.

When your car or truck is running your thermostat normally opens at 190 thats not hot enough to do any damage loop it if you want geeze
:ohno:

RBr0nz3
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Vegascorbin wrote:Take your plastic and place it in a pan of boiling water for ten minutes. If the plastic did not melt /deform then you should be good to go. It all depends on the type of plastic you have.
ain't that the truth i like your quote..
Dirt is for Racing, Asphalt is for getting there. Have fun, Play in the Mud.


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