I stikll don't understand why you guys use an extra washer for one of the studs. With the studs I use on both my motors, I did not experience this problem. Now, using the ARP main studs on my bottom end gave me a problem with one stid being a bit long, so I dempled the oil pan. The only reason why it gave me a problem is because I used the AWD oil pan which is a tad bit different from the RWD oil pan.biosehnsucht wrote:You need SR main studs, not head studs.
you'll need an extra washer for one of the studs, as it sits higher (the one above the waterpump).
need a edep socket, I think 12mm, or 1/2"? maybe don't recal can look tonight, and probably have to grind down the outside of the socket to make it then walled enough to fit in the head.
I guess what's missing is part #s. I wonder what part #s are you guuys using because I don't think mine are SR parts *I think*. My headstuds are okay and I did use brand new nissan washers instead of the ones provided by ARP. The ones I used on my crank all fit just fine, but the contour of the FWD/AWD oil pan caused one stud to touch the oil pan, slightly. Hopefully that cleared it up!81na ZX wrote:Its almost like you guys are talking about two different things without saying which one
So Dee's talking that the head studs from a SR20 work perfectly.Also, one of the SR20 main studs are too long.
biosehn seems to say the SR20 head studs won't work at all.Also, one is too long, or a main stud is too long.
me = confused
4g63's and L series' are so much simpler, and theres even a design change in the 4G63
ARP Part# of 202-5402 which is the part number for the SR20DET Main Stud Kit will work as CA18DET Head Studs,I know this cause i am using them in my running motor and there is no need to double up on washers....just be sure to use a thin 12 point 12mm socket or else the socket won't fit to tighten the stud nutsca18detizzle wrote:anyone know where i can get a set of SR headstuds??