I have a 2013 JX35 with headlight issues. The passenger side headlight was flickering and then going out. Finally that headlight went out completely. I bought a new bulb, but that wasn't the issue. The bulb from the passenger side worked on the drivers side. So the next logical step was to replace the ballast. I ordered a ballast, but didn't replace it right away because it was going to be a pain. About 2 months later the driver side headlight just went out without warning and I tried a different bulb, but it appeared to be a ballast issue. So I ordered a second ballast and replaced both ballast at the same time. When I tested them both headlights fired right up and it appeared my problem was resolved.

The next day, when driving at dusk I noticed my headlights were not working. When I got home I turned them off manually and then switched them back to automatic, both headlights came on and after about 11 seconds the passenger headlight went out and then after about another 4 seconds the drivers side went out. I tried the same thing on the manual ON setting and got the same results. I tried it with the car off and got the same results. I can replicate this problem, but I don't know where to go from here.

The ballast are both new from Amazon, but ordered from different companies.
It could be the ballast, but I think it is unlikely to have two bad ballast. They both work when first turned on.
I don't think it is the bulb. I have 4 different bulbs and they all work for a few seconds and then go out.
I don't think it is a fuse because the lights work momentarily.

Does anyone have technical information for voltage/ohms at the connector?
The days are getting shorter and this will impact my ability to get to work, so if you have any suggestions, please share.

If you didn't replace the steel-clad connecting wires between the ballasts and bulbs, then those are probably your issue. They're called Igniters and they aren't really just wires. Voltage at the bulbs can go to 350~400V during "breakover" when the bulbs first turn on, then should stabilize at a much lower level once the bulbs warm up. Keep in mind that your bulbs are basically welding torches in a tube, so it takes quite a lot of electrical "oomph" to turn the gas into plasma and get the process started. The startup voltages can be very dangerous, so take nothing for granted if you try to measure it.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 25, 2022 5:36 am

If you didn't replace the steel-clad connecting wires between the ballasts and bulbs, then those are probably your issue. They're called Igniters and they aren't really just wires. Voltage at the bulbs can go to 350~400V during "breakover" when the bulbs first turn on, then should stabilize at a much lower level once the bulbs warm up. Keep in mind that your bulbs are basically welding torches in a tube, so it takes quite a lot of electrical "oomph" to turn the gas into plasma and get the process started. The startup voltages can be very dangerous, so take nothing for granted if you try to measure it.

@VStar650CL Thank you for the quick response. Both of the ballast came with new connecting wires/igniters.
A friend suggested a couple of things to check and I think your post helps validate that as a possibility. He said to check the output voltage of the alternator.
Could overvoltage/undervoltage be a possibility?
The battery is a little older too, could that be an issue? Although I have no indication that is the problem because the vehicle never struggles to start.

Another thing he suggested is the switch stalk, but I think this is less likely because the lights work initially, but then go out after a while and the car is not moving and the multi-function switch isn't being touched or moved.

Yes, over or undervoltage could definitely cause them to drop out, particularly under. Poor grounding could also cause it, some models have a common ground that serves both ballasts.