The driver side HID that my local shop installed (they are "Xentec" brand) was giving me problems where every once in a while it would not ignite. So last week I installed the one I bought off ebay in the driver side only & they are working fine. I tested the other unit they sent as well & it worked fine also. The shipping was very fast out of southern Califorinia, USPS Priority mail.
I would recommend them.
I took the old Xentec unit & tested it with a 12V power supply from a PC & it worked perfectly. I think the problem I was having is with the cars wiring harness. I have replace my headlight relay about 1 month ago.
I am going to order the HID relay harness.
OEM factory low beams are 55 watts divided by 12 volts = 4.583 amps. I believe the stock fuse is 10 amps.
HIDs are 35 watts divided by 12 volts = > 3 amps.
BUT...
HID light bulbs have significant voltage requirements, especially at startup which may exceed 20,000 volts, to operate correctly. Each HID bulb receives power from a ballast unit which provides the high voltage required by the bulb to create the initial electrical arc. Once operational, the power requirements drop and the bulb maintains its electrical arc with only 35W of power.
And read this:
http://www.trix.com/Elise-HID/
Excerpts from the link:
"The HID Ballasts draw a large amount of current when first powered on as they ignite the arc and heat the salts in the capsule. It is this startup current that could blow fuses or cause damage to underrated wiring. I measured the highest startup current when the bulbs were cold (green line on chart), and it quickly drops off as they warm up. The highest peak reading was 17A!
This is clearly beyond the capacity of the 10A fuse.... or is it? The automotive fuses are "slow-blow", so they can take a bit more than the rated current for a brief amount of time. According to Bussmann's spec for the ATC fuse, we should be able to withstand around 17A for a full second without melting. The current spike is actually shorter than that, and the full time spent above 10A is about two or three seconds. In my sample set of two fuses, they have not blown at startup. Your mileage may vary, especially if you see subzero temperatures or have a different ballast core. I will be carrying a few spare fuses in the car, but I'm comfortable with that for now. I will say that I have heard three first-hand reports of HID installations on the existing power wiring, and none have reported power or fuse problems.
After warmup, the HID light levels off to 3.5A of current, which is a full amp less than each halogen bulb. The way I see it, a 2A alternator load savings almost makes up for the kilogram of extra weight added by the ballasts. Right? Okay."
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