Headgasket question

[silvia_ca18det]

so i am on the final stages of getting the built SR together and i am still not 100% sure if i should be putting a thin layer of gasket sealer on the head gasket surfaces before i install the head? i have seen this sprayon stuff that people use when they put on custom copper head gaskets but am not sure if its needed with a greddy metal gasket?

thanks

[driftin_sr20det]

I believe most people are going to tell you not to, but we'll see. If you had both the head and block decked you shouldn't need it with a MLS head gasket. But you do need a little sealant at the front around the chain area to keep it from leaking oil around the timing cover.

[kamikazi]

its not needed. i would think the spray on gasket might be ok but with vary thin layer but i would not use the squeaze on stuff because it wont go on even all over and you run into that chance of it getting into the cylinders and wanter jackets causing clogs.

[ILikeMy240sx]

you can spray copper over the HG

The only place you need to put RTV is on top of the front cover. Otherwise you will have oil leaks there.

[killablue240]

jsut make sure that your surfaces are flat, and then dont use sealer only on the front like everyone mentioned you will get a better seal if you dont contaminate your surfaces with sealer that can cause inconsistencies.

[NoStickers]

spray on is ok but id never use anything out of a tube

[ILikeMy240sx]

I've sprayed my Apexi HG with copper spray everytime I took the thing on and off... The recent head swap was my third time taking the head off and the HG was torqued probably five different times.

And I never had incidents with copper spray causing problems.

To me, if it doesnt hurt why not?

[silvia_ca18det]

I've sprayed my Apexi HG with copper spray everytime I took the thing on and off... The recent head swap was my third time taking the head off and the HG was torqued probably five different times.

And I never had incidents with copper spray causing problems.

To me, if it doesnt hurt why not?

Awsome very good info guys, i am going to go ahead and use the copper spray stuff in a thin layer and that should be good!

Also i didnt quite understand the ARP stud instructions do i only HAND TIGHTEN them into the block with the moly lube or do i actually tighten them a ligght with an allen key?

[ILikeMy240sx]

first you lube all the threads and washer and nuts.

second you install the studs in the block using an allen wrench until it bottoms out (you will feel it). It is very difficult to bottom it out using only your fingers.

Third torque it using FSM sequence but go in 20 ftlb increments until 75 ftlb.i.e. First sequence in 20 ft lb, second sequence in 40 ftlb, third sequence in 60 then finally 75

BTW, installing the studes AFTER you put the head on is MUCH MUCH easier.

Trying to put the head on the block with all those studs.... very difficult.

[corey240]

i was wondering that same thing. on another note, i used the tube stuff for my front cover and oil pans on my rebuild, obviously theres gona be excess going over the edges on the inside as there is on the out. so would this be a problem? should i take it all off and do it with spray on to keep the extreme excess from the inside of the motor? im just wondering because i look at all the squeezed stuff on the outsides and wonder if the insides will tear off and clog stuff up.

[ILikeMy240sx]

no you only use copper spray on gaskets like HG, Intake mani, exh mani.

You do not spray copper where RTVs go. Places were they require you to apply RTV like oil pans, front cover, rear main seal, valve cover gasket, etc etc should ONLY use RTV and nothing else.

The solution to your problem is to apply a thin countinuous line of RTV. The approximate diameter is listed in the FSM. You control the diam by where you cut the RTV applicator.

Also, when you install things with RTV, you dont immediately start the engine. You wait for it to completely dry so that the extra RTV that runs to the inside is dry and wont fall off.