Header question... and Yes, I've searched.

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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SK240SX
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DAAAAMMn! those look real nice!i'm gettin excited already.i just love the color of that stainless steel when it gets burnt.

i'm convinced, i'm gonna get the one for my DOHC.


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yellow2000SR
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Everything finally came today. Before anybody starts flaming, I'm in school still. I have plans for Turbo next year so the header will be getting replaced. Depending on how the ehaust holds up, and how it sounds after turbo will make my decision if I will replace it or not.

AND YES, I realize 3" pipe is going to be LOUD while being N/A.

The exhaust - $165 shippedN1 JDM 89-94 NISSAN 240SX S13 CATBACK EXHAUST 3" PIPEhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...55067

The header - $132.95 shipped91-94 NISSAN 240SX S13 STAINLESS STEEL 4-2-1 HEADERhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...MT:11

I had my sister take the pics












Fla240sx
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3" piping is the way to go, who knows anyone might always go turbo.. and it makes more power then 2.5" regardless.. this has been proven time and time again

whats your first impressions on the cheapo 3" exhaust? I'm looking to buy that same style/price one off ebay soon.....

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SK240SX
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BEAUUUTIFUL! I'm buying the same one. and i see it comes with gaskets too!

i'm just buyin the header, will save up another time for the catback cos i already got one.

Please let me know how it fits and any comments on the install.

now we got one for the SOHC and the DOHC. cool.

Fla240sx
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I got mine today

first I thought the ebay pictures didn't give it justice after I saw the pics in this thread, now the pics in this thread don't give it justice..... damn it it NICE

if u go get one of these on ebay, make sure you get the kind that has a piece where the pipes merge, there are 3 on this, another style I see on ebay doesn't look as nice and the pipes just come together and are cut/welded together.. probably not as nice inside and more welds to break...

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SK240SX
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thanks for the tip. i'm thinkin of getting the same one Yellow2000SR got. although i found that the XTune one was a bit cheaper.

anyone else out there with experiences on these cheap headers please post them.

thanks.

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JNM240
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Well i finally was able to get my car up on a rack at work and fix the header rattling on the floor board. Actually took an air hammer and hit the floor board a bit. But the biggest help was the exhaust mount that attaches to the transmission. Mine was seperated at the rubber, so a buddy of mine suggested drilling a hole all the way through the mount and bolting it together. Works beautifully. No more rattle. It now feel like it makes the same power as my Pacesetter, but looks way nicer and is more sturdy, and made out of stainless rather than mild steel. Should last a LOT longer than the meager (kidding) 9 years i got out of the Pacesetter.

yellow2000SR, please post up pics of that exhaust installed. Ive been wanting a Apexi N1 for my coupe when it gets the CA18DET im building, but i dont wanna pay the $750 Apexi wants for it. If that exhaust angles out and up, i might seriously consider it!!!

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SK240SX
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Yellow2000SR, any word on the install yet? how 'bout some pics.

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SK240SX
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have you installed the header yet? got pics? and comments.

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DeXteR
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i have the xtune x3racing header on my ka. my final opinion is that it's just fine for what i paid for it. the quality seems to be fairly good. all of the welds are nice. the flange is really bulky and i'm not convinced it's stainless as i'm starting to see a few rust spots. it might be low quality stainless though as stainless steal is not 100% rust proof.

initial fitment seemed just fine. there are 2 concerns: 1) the clearance under the floor pan is very tight & 2) bolting to the rest of the system is a little off. these are probably partially due to bad motor mounts. this thing rattles on the floor at low rpm and over bumps. when it's bolted to the rest of the exhaust, it's not lined up very well. another reason may be that i'm using their "less than high quality" test pipe as well.

my biggest belly-ache was that they did not include bung-plugs. since i got rid of all my emissions crap, i need to plug the egr bungs. good luck finding those suckers! they're m24x1.25 if i remember correctly... i'll have to go back and check. i ended up having to buy some off-the-wall oil drain plugs. they work just fine though.

i tossed the header on with s14 maf, xtune cai (which was also not that great), s14 intake manifold, hot cam swap, test pipe, 3" cat back (ssac), fan removed, and emissions deleted. this thing is LOUD! but the performance is good. i can't complain too much though because all the stuff i got from these guys was cheap and all of the problems were easily remedied. they ended up refunding me $40 from my total cost (s14 cai, header, test pipe) because i had to buy the plugs, modify the maf adapter, and buy different hoses for the cai.

here's some pictures:

here's a couple tips:

make sure you wipe the header off before you fire it up. make that thing spotless! otherwise all of the grease sudges and fingerprints are going to etch themselves into the metal when it gets up to operating temperature.

the header is going to change colors. don't expect it to stay silver. it'll be all shades of purple and blue and brown and green after a few hundred miles of normal driving.

you migt want to make sure there's some insulation between your right foot and the downpipe of the header. it's going to get hot. i don't have anything (even removed sound deadener) and it gets warm. nothing i can't handle, but if you drive barefoot, you might get burned.

here's a link to my "project thread" if anyone is interested:zerothread?id=253755

in conclusion, i'm satisfied with the purchase. i'm going to end up turbo-charging it in the near future and i just wanted to get this thing running and looking decent as quickly and cheaply as possible. all of the stuff i ended up buying from xtune is going to be replaced within a year or so anyway, so i didn't really care if it was crap. the header ended up being good quality and not too big of a headache.

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SK240SX
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DeXteR wrote:...my biggest belly-ache was that they did not include bung-plugs. since i got rid of all my emissions crap, i need to plug the egr bungs. good luck finding those suckers! they're m24x1.25 if i remember correctly... i'll have to go back and check. i ended up having to buy some off-the-wall oil drain plugs. they work just fine though......
Nissan has an original part to plug those EGR and AIV holes, here's the part number: 14052-21R00 (Plug Taper)

i called Nissan and gave them this part number, cost me $15 bucks a piece, but i'm here in Canada so i didn't complain about the price. might be cheaper in the U.S., i hear it's $4 - $5 bucks. just in case you're interested in replacing them.

here's a picture of the plug:

thanks very much for the pics and the tips, i will keep them in mind.

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amolao
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Thats what I got for my header, it came with just two of them. An issue I noticed is how HOT it gets now in the driver side of the engine bay. I know it should be hot, specially with piping with no shield at all. I'm just kind of worried about my new NGK plug wires....(only an issue with the SOHC). IT gets pretty hot to the point that my strut bar is hot to the touch. Any feedback on this from SOHC owners.....??

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DeXteR
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no kiddin'... wish i would have known that before... i'll look into it.

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SK240SX
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nice feedback, you think some heatshield would help? i mean customizing a heatshield to protect the sensitive parts.

isn't there something you could buy that has a heat resistant material on one side and an adhesive on the other?

hmmm. that's something to consider.

Shift_Kouki
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^ yeah, you can buy that fiberglass insulation tape from autozone for like $40 or so.

Not sure how well it works, never used it myself.

Question though, I have a set of used HotShot headers for the S14, can I get the semi metal gaskets (i think thats the proper name) at a local auto parts place?

If so, is the cost reasonable, and which gaskets / part numbers am I looking for?

Fla240sx
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there is lots of insulation material

dynomat makes some

check summitracing.com

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amolao
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I heard header wraps work pretty at keeping temps down, but it also collects water and ends up rusting the header....combination of heat and water sooner and later eats thru the metal.....

I supposed turbo headers get also pretty hot, if not hotter.....and nothing gets melted. Other than the brake reservoir if you don't use a shield and depending of the type of mount you use.

WWJD

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Fla240sx wrote:I

I love the SOHC, theres just something about taking something everyone throws in the garbage and making something nice with it.........

plus its more simple to work on IMHO, I like the valvetrain more... plus you can buy a cam for this engine for 130 bucks, or you can buy cams for a DE for 500 bucks........

SOHC FTW
would you know what the cam specs are on the stocker. the Comp Cam is as follows: 1,000-4,800 Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214 Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214 int./214 exh. Advertised Intake Duration: 260 Advertised Exhaust Duration: 260 Advertised Duration: 260 int./260 exh. Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.420 in. Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.420 in. Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.420 int./0.420 exh. lift Lobe Separation (degrees): 110 Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in. Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in. Computer Controlled Compatible: No Grind Number: NZ 260S

I'd hate to buy a cam that's wont beef up the motor? I've desided to keep my SOHC and sell the DOHC S13. I'm getten' a motor this week and buld a N/A motor to be strong. I don't care for fast just strong and fun

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DeXteR
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http://www.designengineering.com/

they're probably #1 for automotive insulation.

Fla240sx
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welp I've looked up that cam in the comp cam catalouge... and its for a Z24 engine... summit lists is for a 240sx tho..... so I don't know if its the same, maybe someone will chime in on that

its almost like a Nismo R4 cam but has .20" less lift.... I'm probably gonna go with the R4 cam now... unless the cam works... still its not too radical tho, just a slight increase over stock.. i was kind of looking for something with more lift, the R4 nismo cam looks like the one for me. Plus I know a lot of people run it and like it


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JNM240
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IIRC, and i mean its been years since i reseached all this, but.....

stock duration is like 228* with a lift of .410"the Nismo R4 street cam (ive been using for the last 8 years) is 270* duration and lift of .407".

So 260 duration and .420 lift should be a decent compromise between performance and use-ablilty. I basically built my motor around the R4 cam, needing to increase compression so it could hold an idle. But its a GREAT cam if you want to do the work.

WWJD

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so you made the build around the cam hummm. ok I'll look into it some. I'm getten' my hand's on a motor for cheap, so I would like to mess around with it and make it fun. I look at it like this, If you build your motor right, then if you wreck take that block out and put it in another car. I'm starten' to get juiced LOL

also any links and prices on this nismo cam would be great

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amolao
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Thanks for the link, some good stuff there unknown to me. I might get the spark plug wires protection.....

Fla240sx
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you could build the engine around the cam... but the correct way to do it is build the engine around the head... which in actuality is the main limmiter in what kind of air the engine can flow.. the cam just directs the air and tells it what to do... if you can't flow the air your not doing anygood... on the flip side if you just get a huge azz cam and don't do anything to the head your actually hurting yourself....

I believe the Nismo R4 cam is 440 lift also........... last website I checked listed that

also fail to see how raising compression steadies your idle.... maybe I'm dead wrong and someone can fill me in on this one...


WWJD

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what website has that cam? I'd like to read on it

Fla240sx
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maybe my information is wrong, because I just checked two sites from a yahoo search and they don't say 440........

for some reason thats what I thought I seen it as tho......... arggg

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yellow2000SR
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SK240SX wrote:Yellow2000SR, any word on the install yet? how 'bout some pics.
I'm still working on the engine bay...

My workloghttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...age=1

The car last weekend...







Plans for this weekend...

Good project comming this weekend...Cutting this in 1/2 width wise. Cutting out fender well infont of strut tower, and off to sides then cuting and shaping the 1/2s to fit. Then filling in 1 side to enclose the new wheel wells.


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amolao
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You had any issues in past while using headers and the heat reflected in the bay area??? Are you using wraps?? What kind do you reccomend??

I rather wrap the header even it if lasts a couple of years before if cracks, before all my electronics, gaskets,etc in the engine bay get cooked by the heat.....

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SK240SX
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heyyy... not the kind i was hoping for but very nice. i'm sure you're having fun, wish i could do that but my technical skills are limited, so is time, space, money... hehehe.

have fun man! post some updates when you can.


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