Replacing head gasket, had head surfaced & valve job done. I torqued the head down with new bolts & washers (washers installed correctly) cleaned out all the holes prior to torquing down head. First go around broke # 3 head bolt when tighting to 59 lbs bought all new head bolts,washers & gasket. Second go around break #5 head bolt before reaching 59 lbs. Both times FEL-Pro bolts were installed. I will be picking up new head bolts in the morning (different brand) along with washers, & gasket. I have a clicker torque wrench & the "old School" sweeping arm torque wrench both are working good.

Question is has anybody else had this problem? Has anybody ever heard of a shim being installed with the head gasket? I feel that it's the cheap a** fel-pro bolts made in tawain. I remember buying some about 10 yrs ago and three were bent when I opened the box. The parts house is throwing me all these questions as they said nobody has ever had this problem with fell-pro head bolts. Whats your thought on this?

Hey , did you used factory bolts ! & also , did you apply some assembly lube underneath the bolts when torking the bolts ! . I wonder what bolt torking sequence you used also . Someone can chim in for the sequence order in here .

Fel Pro make gaskets not the bolts buddy .

I have quite literally done the head on my car over 30 times and others and have never had one bolt break used the stock head bolts for the first 15 times atleast with no problems, arp head studs for the rest no problems. I don't know where you had the work done on your head and maybe block? But if the threads in the block aren't clean and lubed when you instal the bolts it could cause the bolt to want to stop sooner so the twisting force from you tightening it wouldn't be as spread out if the bolt isn't in very far so there would be a better chance of breaking one I would think, and if there is rust/dirt buildup in the bottom then the bolt will only be able to go so far.